1988 iroc tpi Every time I turn on the headlights the lamp fuse blows and I have no instrument cluster lights I recently installed a pioneer stereo could this have some thing to do with the fuse blowing also when the fuse blows the stereo blinks off but then comes back on when the car is running.

 

anyone have any Ideas?

 

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Sorry for the answer i click so fast.
What is the size of your fuse?
You can test with another size if you have a 15A you can test with a 20A

 

it is the 10 amp lamp fuse

 

And if you test with a 15A Is it the same result ?

 

10A is 120W. A fuse blowing quickly indicates that the current draw is at least 4 times as large. The stereo blinking also indicates a very large draw (short circuit). It is not a good idea to up the fuse rating, unless you want to see where it smokes.. It's quite likely that a recent stereo installation is the culprit. I have seen many very bad wiring jobs, and is amazed that no more cars catch fire than does.. Stereos are often connected to the instrument lighting circuit, check that connection.

 

I know that but he says he have a new stereo so it's possible this new stereo wants a little more power ( and i don't say test with a 30A just with another size like 15A )
And it's possible it's a bad wiring but he says "but then comes back on when the car is running" so check the permanent live ( i don't know if it's a good term ) and the non-permanent live on your wiring and effectly i think you can see a difference

 

SOME ONE B4 ME HACKED THE STOCK HARNESS I RAN ALL NEW SPEAKER WIRES AND FOUND THE YELLOW WIRE FOR IGNITION POWER BUT I CANT SEEM TO FIND THE CONSTANT POWER WIRE. DOES IT MAKE A DIFFERENDE THAT I USED 14 GUAGE WIRE FOR THE SPEAKERS? ALSO I DISCONNECTED BOTH POWER WIRES TO THE STEREO AND TURNED ON THE HEAD LIGHTS AND THE FUSE STILL BLOWS IM CONFUSED.

 

could I have a bad ground?

 

Regardless of who did the installation, a few other things are sticking out in my mind.

• Always wire a high-power requirement stereos and amps directly to the battery "postive". Never use the existing power supply and ground source.
• The speaker wire gauge required will be detailed from by the manufacture of the speakers, showing impedance and polarity.
• The ground for your new system needs to be to firewall of the car. And the body needs to be grounded.

Stereo installations can cause all kinds of havoc on newer cars, I did an installation on a car with an On Star System, which upon attempting to remove the stereo I learned could have deployed the air bag. And most definitely contacts On Star upon being disconnected.

My advice is to take the right approach, with the old stereo out cover the disconnected wires and connector. Use a separate power supply "postive", and "filtered" ground, then one from the fuse panel; install a fuse link in line from the battery, to your equipment yourself rated for what you are pulling, in amps, to the new equipment.

As for the headlight fuse blowing, it seems that you have a dead short in your headlight circut.

With the stereo disconnected and none of the wires going to ground you can discount this as the problem, and shouldn't be blowing fuses. The only lead in the stereo system that even remotely works with the lights on you car is for the panel light at the stereo. It functions with the dimmer switch.

Troubleshoot the head light circut first, correct fuse no fraid or broken wires going to ground. This goes for the running lights, head lights, fog, and the taillights also. For the record my 92 fog lights cause a me a lot of headachs. Once resolved, the reinstall the stereo as described above.

Lmao @ FullSizeWagons ~SMOKE TEST~ comment..... Too Funny....


Always use new parts it will save you money in the long run.

 

thanks alot man!

 

I figured it out. It was the ground