Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

kill switch problem

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Old May 4, 2008 | 12:45 PM
  #1  
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kill switch problem

I have searched the boards but still cant find any help so here is my question. I bought a kill swithc off ebay for about 15 bucks. Its a simple 2wire switch that hooks up to the IAC (idle air control), hooked it up car still starts. I saw a previos post about this but doesnt explain how to make this simple switch work? Any ideas?

Last edited by Damani37; May 4, 2008 at 12:48 PM.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Re: kill switch problem

I wouldn't wire it to the IAC, I would wire it to the switched wire side of the fuel pump relay. On my previous setup, I had a kill switch for both the fuel pump and the 6A box
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Old May 4, 2008 | 02:56 PM
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Re: kill switch problem

If you want to use a 2-wire switch like that, there is a lot of ways you can connect it to get it to work. Spills' idea is one of them. Another easy way would be to take the connect it to the starter wire from your ignition so that when the switch is "on" and you turn the key, the car starts. When the switch is "off" and you turn the key, nothing happens.

If you want to get a little more involved with it, check out this site:

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp

It has several wiring diagrams for killing the starter on just about any car.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Re: kill switch problem

Thanks guys for the feedback. spills ,If I wired the switch to the fuel pump relay, is that relay located under the dash? and would I need to worry about burning something up? The switch is just a simple toggle switch with two long pieces of black wire coming from the toggle.
92rs_Ttop that website looks a bit to compilcated for my very limited electrical knowledge, the starter fwire rom the ignition is that coming directly off the starter? and would I need a heavier gauge wire? I am scared of burning up something.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #5  
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Re: kill switch problem

This is a universal $0.99 switch, it can be wired anywhere you wish.

But killing a fuel pump relay sure won't help - you will still be able to start the car.
A better place would be the power feed to the injectors (you'd need a dual-pole switch, though) or the tachometer signal going to the ECM.

I'd recommend to search for a kill switch here - you'll find a LOT of info on where people put them.

Does your car have VATS?

Lou
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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From: Buford, GA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
Re: kill switch problem

how could you possibly start the car with the fuel pump disabled? Putting a switch on the injectors does just about the same, stops the electrical signal from sending fuel to the motor. Seems to me the fuel pump would be easier (less wiring) than the injectors.

The only problem I see in a starter kill is in most scenarios, you can still jump the solenoid off of the post on the starter, and start the car if you're able to get the key (or at least ign switch) into run. Ive always wired the fuel pump relay, just my
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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Re: kill switch problem

Originally Posted by spills
how could you possibly start the car with the fuel pump disabled?
You said you put a switch on the switched side of the fuel pump relay. That disables only the ECM control of the fuel pump. If you crank for a few seconds, the OPFP (oil pressure fuel pump) switch kicks in and powers on your fuel pump and you're good to go.

If you wanted to completely disable the fuel pump, you'd have to interrupt the grey wire (tan/white on older models) that runs along the driver side door. But then again, it's very easy for the theif to fold the rear seat, put an alligator clamp on the grey wire and plug it into your cigarette lighter.

Interfering with the ECM or injection would yield better results because it's not that easy to bypass.
See VATS, for example. If the ECM doesn't get signal from the VATS that the proper key is in the ignition cylinder, it's not gonna fire the injectors. Period. The only bypass is to replace the ECM chip with one that has VATS disabled. So yes, the thief can STILL steal your car but it's a little harder (and he must be smarter) than just a single wire to the fuel pump.

There are numerous ways how to disable our engines and multitude of ways to bypass that. It just takes a thief mind to think of a way that would be the HARDEST to bypass, yet still simple enough to implement.

VATS, in my opinion, is a good compromise.

But no matter WHAT you do to your car, if a thief is determined enough, the car WILL be his.

Lou
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:25 PM
  #8  
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From: Buford, GA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
Re: kill switch problem

my bad, I guess I was referring to how I wired mine, but I rewired the entire car so there's no stock ECM to even switch it on, only the switch itself to power the relay.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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Re: kill switch problem

You're fine then. A re-wired car is a thief's nightmare. He comes prepared with an alligator clip for the fuel pump feed and possibly with a non-VATS chip and he sees that the fuel pump wiring is in a different place and the computer isn't stock. Oops! He comes back half an hour later (after he hotwires a wrecker) and tows your car away.

Like I said before, determined thieves WILL steal a car if they really want it.
Alarms and anti-theft devices only stop amateurs, not professionals. But fortunately for us, professionals don't care for most of our cars.

Lou
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Old May 8, 2008 | 06:48 AM
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Re: kill switch problem

Damani - Sorry this is so late, I haven't been near a computer the last couple days. To answer your question, no. The ignition wire that diagram is referring to is the "crank" wire in the harness underneath the steering column. You would need to find that wire under the dash. It will be the only one that is "hot" when the key is in the "start" position. Cut it in a convenient place and then the side coming from the ignition switch equates to the connection labeled "from ignition switch" and the other side of that wire goes to the connection labeled "to starter motor." Then you want to find a wire that always has +12v on it and connect it to one side of your switch. Then connect the other side of the switch to the connection labeled "to ign. +12v." The connection labeled "to alarm (-) output when armed" can then go to a good ground. With it wired this way, the switch has to be "off" in order for the starter to crank. I know it sounds kind of backwards for the switch to be "off" for it to work, but think of it as your starter kill being turned off, not the starting ability. Also, if a thief would happen to find the switch, he's gonna try turning it "on" so the car will start, right?

As BigBabyLou said, if someone is determined enough to steal your car, they will get it one way or another. The best you can hope to do is to prevent the amateur or "opportunity" thieves from getting their hands on it.
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Old May 8, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: kill switch problem

Ok 92RS that makes sense too me. I am going to get out and give it a try this weekeknd, I know that if somebody really wants a car they will get it with or without the driver. I guess I am just trying to be a little proactive, because where I live alot of the young guys like old chevys regardless of what they are because of the big v8's. I saw a RS yesterday with 22 inch rims on it!! I was like damm that looks really ugly, not saying anything bad about people who like big rims but on a camaro?! Just not my style, thanks for the good info!!
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