Pic 1: Blower - Had no heat, conencted the motor to the battery, blew heat. There for heater core is working fine too. So the switch isnt routing voltage to the motor for whatever reason.

1. What is that open hose doing there like that?
2. I'm assuming the thign i have circled is a resitor pack of some sort to change motor input voltage?

Pic 2: What is this chamber here for?it's obviously not doing anything with 1 line going in (out?). even has an even more useless checkvalve. line goes under the car somewhere. any ideas??

also wtf is a checkvalve doin in the fluid hose?

Pic 3:
1.The big thing on the left, im guessing its the washer fluid pump? the arrow goes to the hose which i think is the one from the reservoir? When i try to use the fluid it sounds like an AK's goin off.??

2.wtf is that thing on the right?

3. that check valve to the brake booster...its supposed to be a ONE way valve im assuming? cause its not one right now lol

 

Pic 4: i dont know what the thign with the question mark is, but it looks like this loose plug would fit into it, and theres a damn resistor shoved in it.

this makes me thing whatver that box is is important, since people only use resistors normally to avoid check engine lights...and only important thigns throw CELs. Any idea on this one?

Thanks in advance..and also if you see ANYthing else wrong with whats going on in these pics any help would be great ( i know the header heater tubes need to go..and it needs breather caps or a real PCV system)

-Oliver (it's an 84 z28 btw)

 

1. Should be hooked to the blower motor. Check the following link for a pic that may be generally helpful. Note the hose.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...er-heater.html

2. Relay. The resistors are directly behind it, held in place by two screws.

The 'chamber' is the charcoal canister. The line runs to the fuel tank. The uncapped line was part of the emissions equipment, IIRC. The check valve on the washer tank is there to keep the fluid in the line--though my experience is that if the wipers/pump aren't used frequently, the pump dries out, which probably accounts for the sound you hear.

JamesC

 

Looks like the plug for the AC compressor.

JamesC

 

Can I remove this charcol canister since it doesnt seem to be hooked up in any way thats functional?

Also, i think that later 3rd gens use a pump in the washer fluid tank, not attached to the wiper motor like it looks like I have. Can it be set up with a later model wiper motor and internal washer fluid pump?

and so that tube i guess stays there on the blow, so whats its like a cooling tube or just to let moisture out>?? who knows, thanks tho for clarifiying the resistor/relay thing. now I can go and get this sucker working.

I guess my last question then is what that cylindrical thing is to the right of the wiper/fluid motor is?

Thanks

 

The charcoal can filters gas fumes from the tank. Should you plug the line, you'll need a vented gas cap or you may have problems.

Wouldn't know why not.

JamesC

 

Great thanks So normally, does the port on the charcol canister thats now plugged go to something like a place on the intake manifold and the filtered fumes just get sucked into the motor? With the aftermarket manifold on the motor I'm assuming the guy couldnt find a place to put a line in from the canister, if that's how it's supposed to be (previous owner did a hack job like no other with doing a 350 swap)

Ah one more thing, the guy removed the A/C (part of it atleast) Is there any harm to be done by removing the evaporator and accumulator that still remain?(dude just pulled compressor from what it looks like)

 

Pic 1: I think your blower motor is clocked 180 degrees. Wires are too tight and the port for that hose is pointing toward fender. It'll suck in dust and ruin like that.

Pic 2: Leave charcoal canister they way it is unless you plug metal gas tank vent line and use a vented gas cap.

Pic 3: 2. Thing on the right is your vacuum reservoir, but with no vacuum supply hose hooked to it. Heater vents not changing position?
3. I always thought it was a one-way valve...

Pic 4: That is your second MAP sensor that measure ambient air pressure. The connector for it is underneath laying on the inner fender. I agree the held connector looks like the AC compresser clutch.

You can remove the rest of the AC system accept for the (evaporator?) in the heater box. It needs to plug the opening in the heater box. I suppose you could duct tape closed if you took it out.

 

Yes, in a round about way.

Why not throw a compressor in there and enjoy the cool next summer?

JamesC

 

Eh its got t-tops, i wont go through the effort of havin A/C and doing up the whole system, having it vacuumed, filled, all that crap. too much $$.

No the heater vents to change actually, just got it on the defroster mode (but the switch in the dash looks like its all cable actuated?)

and if this thing has a MAP sensor (which i thought it was but why have one on a carbureted motor? ) could it have been equipped with a 305 TBI before this quadrajetted 350 was put it?

If i pull the A/C stuff it will be all of it,a nd any hole in the firewall will be covered with a piece of painted sheet metal. I'd like this thing to eventually be clean as can be. It's like a jungle now though I want to get rid of everything that I don't absolutely need. It will have a carb'ed (may EFI depending on tax returns) 383 and a 6 speed in it by late spring.

Is there somewhere on these forums focused on custom engine bay stuff? It will be all stainless flex lines, AN couplings, like a pretty show car, no wires to be seen, all holes blocked off nicely. But some help with the best palces to route the stuff and maybe some other peoples input on it would be great

Thanks again,
Oliver

 

I have an '84 T/A 305 with computer controlled quadrajet. One map sensor by heater box with vacuum line to carb measuring manifold pressure then the other one by wire pass through with no hose as in your picture.

6-speeds are cool.

I haven't seen a thread specifically about hiding stuff in engine compartment except on the swap board. Haven't searched either though.

 

well the quadrajet on this 350 is definately not computer controlled, guess i can take the MAP sensor out. I'll be havin an electronics and A/C parts sale in a few days then I guess

 

The blow motor is positioned correctly. The wiring harness to it, however, seems to have been hacked.

JamesC

 

This wiring harness was hacked BIG time. It's gonna be a pain but I think i'll be able to go throw and straighten things out eventually. Blower relay is shot (that or the ground to the relay isnt grounded) I jumped the HI (orange) in the relay terminal to the other 3 coming from the resistors (purple) Pins and then grounded the motor to a strut tower bolt, and voila, The fan controlls work fine and i got heat...now to actually fix it and not leave it ghetto rigged

I won't need much harness when I'm done. No A/C, Non-computer controlled Carb, no emmissions (registered as collector's car , no e-check for me), and I'm takin that distributor out and putting in a unilite or somethin.

 

Here's another one..That thing under the map sensor. I was hoping to take that whole bracket off, If i don't need the mystery item.

Also, anyone know of where i can get a pic of a 100% factory engine bay? Just to see where certain wires and lines were originally run. I see alot of clips with nothing in em, and it angers me

 

80% sure its the AC compressor relay. If not, its fan, fuel pump or spark control which I doubt you have.

I took several pictures while disassembling my daughter's 84 T/A. They are too big to post. I can e-mail them if you like.

 

To know for sure, sr, we need to know the year of the car; for example, depending on year, the car may or may not have been equipped with an electric fan, electric fuel pump, or spark control (all the above appeared as early as, I'm guessing, 83 with the L69). Many member list that data on the side like ACCLR8N and I have.

JamesC

 

it's an 84. the 350 motor thats it in is from 81. mechanical fuel pump, belt driven fan. No idea about the spark control, how can I tell? Will the model of the distributor being used help answer that? I attached a picture of it.

I might just start unplugging ****. If it still runs, I don't need it.

 

Nope, looks like a vacuum advance distributer in the picture. There's not a big flat 4-pin connector coming off the base of the distributer in the back.

 

theres a connector with 4 or 5 wires on the right side kinda toward the back. So does a vac. advance dist. automatically mean it's not computer controlled? I've always used mechanical advance distributors like unilites or w/e.