If My car has the key with the (whatever its called) thing that is suppose to stop theft, then do I have to hook up the starter disable on the alarm? If someone gets a hold of the keys they will have the alarm clicker anyways.

 

The kill start is option on most every alarm. If someone got a hold of your keys, the car is theirs regardless if you have the starter kill installed with either the factory or aftermarket alarm. Also, when installing an aftermarket system, it's best to disable the factory alarm system because the two will conflict unless you can somehow wire them together.

 

K thanks for repeating lol. But back to the facts, & I thank you for your help, but my car has no factory alarm that I know of. It just has that thing on the key. All I was told that it did, was trigger a starter kill if the real key was not used, via hot wire, ignition switch, or whatever way people steal cars. If that is a fact then I don't need the starter kill on the after market alarm hooked up.

 

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You can make [or purchase if WOLO still markets it] a very simple ignition- disable device. A common way of disabling the ignition is by shorting the coil primary to ground through a ten ohm wire-wound resistor that can dissipate at least 10 to 15 watts [the rating is on the part].
You can very neatly hide the wiring. If you use a simple on/off switch, you will need to set it every time you leave the car.
But, as in the WOLO kit, if you are crafty with basic electrical skills, you can hide a 'temporary-contact' switch behind the left kick panel.
The switch would work a relay. Wire as follows:
Relay coil- one end to a plus supply that has power in start and run.
The other end of relay coil gets grounded when you hit the hidden switch.
The contacts in the relay: Use the two that close together when the relay is NOT energized. One gets grounded through the resistor. The other goes to ignition coil [negative].
When you get it all together, you will see that the car will not start.
But if you bump the hidden switch [with ignition 'on'], the relay will close, thereby removing the ground from the coil. Car will start. When you shut the ignition to leave the vehicle, the coil will again be shorted.
I suppose that if you are afraid if using a shorting-type circuit, you can use this basic design to alternatively simply remove [+] power from the distributor circuit.

Seth

 

Good idea!Im sure everyone knows this but if a punk wants your car hes going to get it no matter what you do short of having a pitbull living in it. I use the horn switch as a starter kill, you have to press the horn to start her(i disconnected the horn, but i still have my middle finger ha). It cost me 5 bucks for the 30amp relay that is wired normally open. Now ill try your idea and kill the coil also

 

I used to install these all the time. If I could not find the kit, then I made it by hand. Has been 20 years, but I believe that I explained it properly.
The idea behind the resistor, is that if the relay closes for some reason while you are driving, there will still be enough current to not stall the engine.
Also, remember that the relay you choose must be labeled as having a contact with both N.O. and N.C. positions, as you must have gathered from my circuit description.

Seth

 

Something about my description was not quite accurate, and it needs to be corrected.

You need a two-pole relay. Not a single as I had previously stated.
All connections thus-far are identitical. But what I had forgotten is the fact that the relay coil must remain energized after you release the momentary-contact hidden pushbutton. How can that be accomplished? This is how:
This is where the second set of relay contacts come in.
The second set is hooked in as follows: [with this set of contacts, use the two that are not connected until the relay coil is energized] One contact to chassis ground. The other contact to the same side of the pushbutton switch that delivers chassis ground to the relay coil when pressed.
Follow the logic: The second set of contacts maintains connection to the coil AFTER you release the switch. When you shut off the ignition, the relay gets released, which then shorts the coil again. In my original description, the relay released when the switch was released.
Sorry for screwing up.

This additional info is what you need to make it nice.

Seth

 

wow this is way out of my league. I didnt even get the alarm hooked up right with good directions lol. All I really wanted to know was, what does the key thing do? Its factory starter kill? Dont know. As you can tell my electronic skills suck. I mean if I knew someone that was into this stuff that could show me in person then I could finger it out, but im lost so far. The horn thing sounds cool as well as all the other ideas, but im not the guy to get it done. Make me a good diagram and I bet I can get it. Maybe im just to tiredto think right now.

 

Electronics are not difficult. You really need to familliarize yourself with the science, simply because it is part of our every day lives. So many things you can fix, including the car, the stereo, the clock radio, the T.V., etc...
My home stereo is from 1972, spins records [I prefer the un-computer-processed sound of a QUALITY Analog system] and sounds infinitely better than 99% of the crap they sell today.

Who do you think fixes this thing?

The more that you task your brain with differing, unrelated skills, the better-developed and sharper it will become.

This has been proven to be necessary to keep our brains in good working order.

Seth

 

So I am still not able to get an answer to my original question, so I will ask it again. I just bought another car same year and everything. No title no keys. The little slivers of metal that stick out of the key. What are they for? I am about to punch the ignition with a mini sledge, and a chisel. If I knew what the slivers where for, I would know if that was a bad idea or not. Would like to start the car @ some point so I know if things are good to sell or not. So ya. Two reasons I need to know this. Guess I will call the dealer.

 

I seem to recall that the metal sliver is a resistor that needs to seen by the computer, before it will permit the car to run. This resistor obviously needs to be the right value.
Someone here might chime in. I remember old posts that refer the owner to the dealer to secure the correct ignition key.
My car is an '83, so I have no experience with your problem.

Seth

 

it's a resistor, and computer gets the signal if resistance was correct from the vats box. If it doesn't see the resistance then it will not let the car start trough the computer. If car had no key to begin with then you would either need to get a box to bypass it or get it programed out of the computer. If there is no key you can take the steering wheel off and then take they screw that holds the ignition lock in place out. That will let you reach in with pliers to start the car when vats is disabled. On my car the wire broke when i was fixing the loose column problem so i just measured the resistance on the key and added a potentiometer adjusted to the correct resistance.

 

Wow, yep, im screwed lol. I bought a slide hammer and killed the ignition cylinder. The car was only $150, & I planed on parting it, after I got the parts I want. Only thing is that, I can not get it to start now, in order to get it in the garage. I will have to find another way to get it in the garage (huge hill), but I wanted to drive it, to get a better idea of what was good or not. One way or the other I loose profit. Who wants to buy a motor, and trans thats not verified. Guess I can just show a buyer my break over bar on the motor.