Ok so ever since I bought my 86 z28 carb stick shift camaro the power locks and the rear hatch switch dont do anything.

Now I know the obvious step is to check the switches themselves, but is there a way to test to see if the problem IS the switches without buying new ones first?

also, what are some other solutions or things i can try to get down to the bottom of this/these problem(s)??

Thanks!

 

Re windows:

Check the CTSY fuse.

If it’s OK use a meter or test light to see if you have 12 volts on the ORANGE wire going to the switches.

Re rear passenger ejection button:

The switch energizes a relay when the switch completes a path to ground.

You can use a jumper wire to see if the switch is bad, or if it’s a problem in the rest of the circuit.

◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!

 

Hey,

Sorry to bump after all of this time, but I finally got out there to check my car.

I checked all fuses, and they are all good. I also used my manual to make sure none were missing.

I checked the voltage on the power locks, and couldnt find any voltage on an of the wires, with the car on and off.

Same with the relay in the center console and the switch for the hatch.

Where do I go from here?

 

Did you remove the rear hatch surround trim panel to look at the pull-down unit? You need to see if there is a black ground wire that attaches to the 10mm screw that mounts the hatch release solenoid to the latch assembly. It goes from that screw to the ground location on the body below the hatch pull-down unit. If that wire is not there the solenoid will not work since it is electrically isolated from ground by the plastic guides in the track of the pull-down unit.

Lon Salgren

 

Probably should have mentioned this first,

But when I open the hatch with my key, Its noticably electronic and is working...

its just the switch in the front of the car im having trouble with. THe orange wire there has no power...does that go straight to the fuse box? could I run my own wire there?

I guess Ill have to jump power from somewhere to that switch and see if both the switch works and the hatch opens.

 

Ok, but that still doesn't answer my question. Let me explain. By "Its noticably electronic and is working...", I'm going to interpret that as you mean the pull-down motor works properly to raise or lower. Great! However the hatch release solenoid is powered on a separete circuit from the pull-down motor.

Lon

 

Actually by electronic I meant that I heard an electronic sound from the hatch release and saw moving parts in the actual hatch release part...

The hydrolic parts that life the hatch up don't actually work, I need to get replacements.

I will check for that ground when I go out their tomorrow.

If its not their I assume I would just make my own ground?

Thanks!

 

If you're hearing the solenoid fire, then your ground is there. Your hatch hook may be worn and getting caught in the latch or the hatch needs to be aligned. Is your rear spoiler aligned with the side spoiler pieces or does it stick out further?

Lon

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

I checked all fuses, and they are all good.

Also check the PWR ACC circuit breaker.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

on the power locks, and couldnt find any voltage on an
of the wires

If you are referring to the switches as instructed in post 2 you have a broken connection in the line from the fuse block to the window switches.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

The hydrolic parts that life the hatch up don't actually work, I need to get replacements.

Re the pneumatic lifts not working:

Replacing those before working on the hatch release will make it MUCH easier.

◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!

 

Ok guys, update on everything.

Today i double checked every single fuse with one of those test lights, and confirmed they were all working. I then pulled out the circuit breakers, and was getting a weird reading, the light was flickering on and off on both of them, so I temporarily replaced them with 30 amp fuses. I also checked the power, and one has bettery power, the other is switched voltage and both work fine, however for some reason the switched voltage is lower then the battery power...

Anyway, after I did that, I checked all the interior lights, hatch switch and power locks again, still nothing.

I decided to jump a wire from the fuse box to the driver's side door to see if I could get a reaction and sure enough when I touched the wires the power lock motors kicked in. The orange wire on the power lock switch was ground though...isn't THAT supposed to be the power wire?

After all of this I double checked the hatch switch again, and although the hatch works fine with the key in the rear, the switch does thing...I suspect it is because I still have no voltage on the orange wire in the center console that goes to the hatch relay.

Now with all of that said, how can I find out where the orange wires for the hatch AND the power lock switch go? with everything ive checked they SHOULD have power, so that means they must be pinched or cut somewhere, god knows what the last owner did.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

……switched voltage and both work fine, however for some reason the switched voltage is lower then the battery power……

You need to find out why you’re getting the drop.

It’s going thru something it shouldn’t and the items which require power will never work right till you fix the above problem.

Trace it back to find out what it’s going thru.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

The orange wire on the power lock switch was ground though...isn't THAT supposed to be the power wire?

Yes.

That brings you back to post 2.

You have a broken connection in the line from the fuse block to the window switches.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

……the hatch works fine with the key in the rear, the switch does thing...I suspect it is because I still have no voltage on the orange wire in the center console that goes to the hatch relay.

This is true.

That brings you back to post 2.

You have a broken connection in the line from the fuse block.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostindahouse

Now with all of that said, how can I find out where the orange wires for the hatch AND the power lock switch go?

You said all the fuses are good so now you merely have to probe the orange wire where it exits the fuse block and find the broken connection.


◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!

 

Wait, they go straight from their position directly to the fuse box?

Ok...thought itd be more complicated then that... Thank you!