92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I'll try not to bore everyone with the background info here, before I get to the point. (Mods feel free to move this, I wasn't sure which of several possible boards to start this in.)

So there was some discussion in this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-shaved-5.html

of how to get into a car with the door handles shaved if you left the keys in the ignition. One solution I proposed was to install the Keyless Entry system from a Ford.

I picked mine up at the local U-Pull from a mid-90's Explorer. I grabbed the keypad off the door and the wiring for it as well as the computer which was mounted behind the interior plastic above the rear driver's side wheel well. The 5-digit code to unlock the doors on the Explorer is printed on the label on the computer, its in the area I blacked out in the pics(didn't really want to post that on the 'net).

I will be wiring it in to open the driver's door if I happen to lock my keys in the car. I'm hoping I can get it to work whether the car is running or off. I also am going to wire it up to open the trunk just in case I'm too lazy to open the door or go back in the house to grab the remote

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I was originally going to mount it to the underside of the hatch above the license plate. However, there just isn't room and running the wiring would have been messy to say the least. So I decided to mount it behind the license plate. The sheet metal there is not flat enough to mount the keypad to.

I ended up mounting it between where the license plate bolts to the car, in the plastic of the bumper itself. The pics probably show it better than I can describe it. Behind the plastic there are the 2 metal brackets that the license plate bolts to, and for some reason there is a third one right it the middle. It was in my way, so it had to come out. I went to use the trusty Dremel with a cut-off wheel but my Dremel died about 2 seconds into the cut.

After picking up a new Dremel, I was able to remove the bracket. Then I was able to measure and mark my cut on the bumper. I used the Dremel with a round high-speed cutter blade in it to cut the hole, but a sharp utility knife would work as well if you have steadier hands than I do.

After that, it was simply a matter of inserting the keypad into the hole. I did not use the metal retainer clip that is shown in the pic in the first post since there was no room for it with the little lip that is on top of the bumper there. However, since my bumper is flexible, I was able to cut the hole a bit small and its holding the keypad in tight enough on its own.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Some pics of the keypad installed in the bumper.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The keypad is tight against the sheet metal of the car and pushes the top of the bumper out a 1/4" or so, but once the plate is mounted you can't tell the keypad is there. In the pics I just have the bumper loosely sitting in place, that's why it looks a bit off in some of them.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

This is awesome. I may have to do this on my vert.

Good job.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

I had thought about putting it on the driver's door where the door handle used to be but I wasn't sure how it would fit the curve of the door since its flat, and I have so much bondo on the door where it would need to go that I could never get it mounted right. I REALLY warped the door welding in the patches for the door handle and lock cylinder holes. It was my first try welding sheet metal after I had just taught myself to weld so it REALLY wasn't pretty.

I've since gotten a LOT better at it, but I'm still not as good as a lot of the members on here.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Next, I had to drill a hole in the rear behind the taillights to so I could run the wiring inside to the computer. Not much measuring involved here, I just picked a spot that looked good and drilled the hole. The wire loom I used was 1/2" so I drilled a 9/16" hole and threaded a rubber grommet onto the wire loom(this sucked big time). To feed everything into the hole, I had to remove the large green plug on the end of the wiring. The plug itself would have required a 7/8" hole and I didn't want to make it that big. I was able to remove the pins after taking some reference pics and got everything in place. The grommet popped out of the hole 3 times as I tried adjusting the wire loom. I hate those things, but they are kind of important. After the wiring was in place, it only took a few seconds to put the plug back together.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The wiring I pulled from the door of the Explorer gave me about 18" to work with when deciding on the placement of the computer. While I could have lengthened the wires to run them anywhere I wanted, they reached perfectly over to the spare tire area. Since I removed the spare tire and related stuff I have plenty of room there. I already have the amp for my rear speakers mounted there so +12V and Ground were available as well. I will put an inline fuse in between the amp's power wire and the computer. According to the wiring diagrams I found online it gets a 20A fuse.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Here is the wiring diagram I drew up for the connections in case someone can use it.

I'm not sure if the connection to power when the key is in Run or Accy will prevent the system from working while the car is running, but it might. If that is the case simply not connecting it should fix that. It's one of the first things I'll test once I finish wiring everything in to the car.

Of course the wiring for the door solenoid is specific to my car, but other setups should be similiar.

Also, the Trunk relay is something I added to my car so I can pop the trunk with the remote for my doors. All you need is a relay to connect the 2 wires on the trunk release button. Wire that so it is energized by the door controller when you press the appropriate button on the remote.

mister_hudson

iTrader: (3)

Great thread! Nicely done! Now you've got me considering saving the doors - again...

Very good job!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

matthufham

iTrader: (5)

hmm.. i wouldn't tap into the inj fuse, that's on with crank/run. the radio one might suit better and won't be as big of a concern if you blow that fuse one day

BloodyBlueBird

iTrader: (1)

Wow... I'm liking this setup. It makes me want to do it right now. How much did the junkyard decide to charge you???

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

If I was still running the original V6 I would agree with you. However, the car now has a carbed 350 in it so the Injector fuses are not being used. In fact, I don't even have fuses in those slots right now.

However, it won't have power with the key in Accy now that I think about it and that might be an issue. Depending on how the computer functions when that connection has power, I may not even use that connection.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember the exact amount even though I have been trying to track all my expenses. In my spreadsheet I have $25 listed for it, but I think it was really closer to $30.

The yard I got it at I go to all the time and they know me there so they don't give me a receipt. He just adds it all up on a scratch pad and gives me a total. They have also not charged me for a lot of small stuff, especially when I get some bigger, more expensive parts.

BloodyBlueBird

iTrader: (1)

The junkyard that I go to is about the same in regards to the charges on the smaller stuff, but they still give me a receipt. I will have to look into this tomorrow when I go to the junkyard. I bet it will be around double from where I'm at, but still seems worth it. Keep up the work it looks great so far.

88camaroluvr

Nicely done. I know what I'm doing when this semester is over. Any pictures of it all put back together with the license plate and lights? Good job again.

BloodyBlueBird

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you should post some pics of it all cleaned up and put together. If you have it all together.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

As soon as I get it all done, I'm going to take a video of it in action and I'll post it up on Youtube with the link in this thread.

Right now, this project is actually on hold while I finish up my exhaust install. Once I get the car back down on the ground I'll be able to finish reattaching the rear bumper and get the last of the wiring run. Standing behind it now with the plate on and the lights loosely bolted in place you can't tell it was done. I'm figuring to get the exhaust done by Wednesday or Thursday so hopefully by the weekend I can have this project wrapped up as well. Then its just a matter of getting the car outside where I have room to open the doors to test it. That, and my garage is under the house and right now the exhaust is pointing at the basement door so I'm not able to test it while the car is running.

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Any chance you could tell me where you mounted your solinoids? I am having a hard time getting mine to pull looking to move them to a new location.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The only pics I have are in post #159 of the thread I have linked in my first post. Here is the direct link to the page:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-shaved-4.html

When I installed them, I basically just connected the solenoids to the latch and let them hang. Wherever they bumped up against the inside of the door is where I marked them. I drilled 2 of the holes then mounted the empty solenoid bracket to the outside of the door skin and used that as my template to drill the other 2 holes.

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

See yours are on more of an angle then mine are. I put mine below the latch I guess I could just not be getting enough throw. Thanks for the pic/info

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

What part of the latch do you have them connected to? I used the same lever that the outside handle pushed down on to open the latch.

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Correct I use the same one it is just mounted to the door jam area and my brackets only take two bolts.

Awesome-X

Looks interesting, can't wait to see the results!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I was originally going to mount mine on that side, but went with the inner skin for a couple reasons:

1 - I didn't want the bolt heads visible at all.

2 - I was afraid of the bolt heads rubbing the door jam and scraping the paint off.

3 - I couldn't get a good angle on the latch.

4 - It was easier to reach.

Can you adjust the length of the cable? Mine have a small amount of slack in them, maybe 1/8-1/4".

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Yes I can adjust the length of cable. I use a flat philips head and it clears fine doesn't look to bad put a little paint on it and you would never know. I was thinking about just scraping the solenoid and use the power lock actuator. How far is the throw of your solenoid? how much does it have to pull total and does it bottom out?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Total throw is about 3/4". Yes, it bottoms out. Every time I hit the release button for either door, I get a loud "thunk" as it hits. I'm not sure what you mean by total pull? The lever only needs to move about a 1/2" or so to open the latch. I thought about using the door lock actuators, but till I bought the remote system it was the same price to buy the full kit. I got a great deal on my kit on Ebay. The other reason I was hesitant to use the door locks is that they do not have a return spring like the door solenoids do. Once you hit the remote, they will open and you will have to use another button on the remote to close them again.

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Total pull would be 3/4" b/c is bottoms out and that sounds about that I have. I didn't know that about the lock actuators, my remote only has two buttons so that is out of the question now. Do you remember what wire size you have going to your soliniods?
Maybe mine just aren't getting enought juice!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I have a 30A fuse supplying power for both solenoids. For the positive side wiring I used 14ga wire I think and for the negative I used the same size. I'll check it tonight while I'm working on the car and post back.

Do you have relays connected so that the solenoids are connected straight to the battery?

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

No I have it hooked up to the fuse panel on one of the extra 12v sources. Think that is my problem?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Not unless the connections to the fuse panel are old or corroded. As long as you are getting the full 12V there you should be ok. Only way to tell is to try running directly to the battery though.

Fuzzman17

That's cool for locking the keys in the ignition but, what do you do if the battery goes dead?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The same thing anyone else does. Call someone to bring me some jumper cables and my spare keys

DemonYusuke

there is actually a backup button kit for shaved doors that has its own battery backup so you can still get in your car, but for the life of me i cant remember the name of it

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I'm not really worried about getting in the car if the battery dies. I can still unlock the trunk normally with the key and crawl in if necessary. The way I see it, if the battery dies somewhere other than at my house it doesn't matter if I can get into the car or not cause it ain't gonna start.

Just a quick update on the install:

I tried connecting up the power wires last night and testing the system, but I can't get any response from it when I press the buttons. The keypad doesn't even light up. I don't think I got a bum module as it was from a C4C trade-in, but I suppose its possible. More likely, I used the wrong wiring diagram. I used one from a 96 Explorer, but I believe I got the parts from a 2000-2004 Explorer. I didn't really look at the year of it that closely and figured that the wiring was the same for all years. From what I have read online tonight the computer was located in different areas depending on what model year it was installed to. Luckily I haven't removed any of the wires from the harness yet so I can rewire it if necessary. I just hope I didn't fry anything by mistake.

Any chance someone's got the wiring diagrams for 00-04 Explorers or a link to the correct diagrams?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I finally tore the module apart to see if there was a manufacturer's date stamped anywhere. Turns out that it was made in 98, so the wiring diagram I had was accurate. I just didn't wire it correctly for my initial test. I finally got it all straightened out and its working. I will post an updated wiring diagram in a day or two when I get it finished.

Video of it in action is up on Youtube. You can see it here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfcH-b1AJVs

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

Hey hey thats nice! Good Job!

I finally fixed mine. It seemed to be that the 14guage wire wasn't letting enough amps through it. I run some 10guage and they work like a charm!

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

That is so COOL!

Great job!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! Glad to hear you got yours working. Do you happen to know what their pull is rated at? That's odd that mine work fine with 16ga and yours need 10ga.

Mgb86

iTrader: (3)

They are these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45LB-...item2a053a294d

I also wired the relays direct to the battery.

1988GTA500HP

Nice job, ttop! That is really slick.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Those seem a bit smaller than mine. What gauge wire is on them? Did you solder the wires together or use a crimp connector?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Ok, here is the final wiring diagram. This should be accurate for a 95-99 Explorer module. One possible difference is my ground wire(black/white stripe) is on the opposite connector from the diagram. I don't know why, but it does work just fine. All other wires can be removed from the connectors or just taped/shrinkwrapped and pushed aside like I did.

One thing you will have to decide on if you use it to pop the trunk is which of two wires to use.

One wire(Pink/Yellow) is used on the Explorers to lock all the doors. It can be pop the trunk on its own, but you don't need to enter the code to do it. This means that anyone who knows the button combination to lock all the doors can open your trunk without entering the 5-digit security code.

The other wire(Pink/Lt Green) is normally used to unlock all the doors on the Explorers. It can be used to pop the trunk, but it will also open the driver's door. To use this one you have to enter the 5-digit security code(which automatically pops the driver's door) then press the 5/6 button to pop the trunk.

zenish

ive been wanting to use the keypad for a while but didn't know how.thanks.