Well I bought a 89 Firebird with no engine, I put my uncles 305 TBI in it because that is what it had originally.

There are 2 wires i cannot for the life of me figure out were they go to and if they are impacting the ability to start.

Power and starter are hooked up fine, I turn the key to crank and the start clicks once, then all power goes out for 2 mins roughly. After the two min period i can try to crank again but get same results.

Even if i hot wire it and put a screw driver across the posts on the starter same thing, one almost mechanical click, then no power to anywhere for 2 mins.

 

Not familar with TBI but if it was a TPI I would say that is the connector for the combination oil pressure switch/sender unit at back of the block behind dist;
Does OP gauge and runs fuel pump when oil pressure over 4 psi

 

The oil pressure switch your talking about is located right above the oil filter on TBI cars, but it looks exactly like the one in your pic vetteoz.

That indeed looks like the oil pressure sender connector, but it would have no effect what so ever on the starter. It sounds like either the starter is bad, or maybe a bad/loose electrical connection. The other wire thats disconnected in the 3rd pic (yellow and black wires) looks to go to the temp gauge sender on the front of the manifold.

 

some oil pressure switchs control fuel pump.......

 

They dont control the fuel pump persay. Its a saftey thing, when the oil presure reaches 4psi, it closes a circuit that sends 12v to the fuel pump. In the event that the fuel pump relay fails while driving, the pump still gets 12v so the car still drives.

 

Ok so here is the development:

I decided to go have the starter tested, the guys hooked it up and it blew their circuit down at the auto part shop. I bought a new starter and installed it, turned the key and again one click and then no power.

The power stays out interior and all for about 3-4 mins, i dont understand what would cut all the power and why. I plan on manufacturing new extra grounds from the starter to the batteries ground just to play it safe.

 

The wires going to the starter arent grounds, and if you hook any of them up to the neg side of the battery, youre gonna fry things. I think what you ment to say is that youre going to run extra wire from the starter to the pos side of the battery. If youre going to do that, you might as well just replace the wires that are there. If the new starter is doing the same thing as the old one, it might just be corroded wires or maybe a fusable link thats barely hanging on to life. Have you had your battery tested? Or checked to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight?

 

new battery, and no i meant I will just take a wire from the starter mounting points. Where the starter actually grounds and return to the negative side of the battery.

So from my observations my starter has 2 posts, one big, one small. The big one has 3 red wires connecting to it, including one from the battery, and i dont know the other two. The smaller post is from the ignition I am sure. I think i will pull the ignition wire and set it aside then try to turn the key to crank. I will see how much power its giving and see if power will stay on.

 

The starter grounds to the block, adding a wire from the mounting bolts the neg side of the battery wont do anything. The big post is the main power terminal, the small is the solenoid power. The solenoid gets power when you turn the key to start it, all it does is send power to an electromagnet that moves the shaft of the starter into the flexplate/flywheel. When the shaft moves, it closes the circuit for the main power to spin the starter.

 

completely understood, so if the block is not grounding properly for some who knows why reason, a test wire maybe a beneficial.

Besides the biggest mystery to me is what can logically disconnect power to the rest of the car for 3/4 mins. Even if i provide power to the solenoid post myself, the same results occur, one click and then no power for 3/4 mins. The solenoid itself will not even become active again until those 3/4 mins pass.

 

A corroded wire could. When you apply the extra load to it, it heats up and looses conductivity untill it cools down. Disconnect all the wires on the starter, run a thick gauge wire directly from the battery to the starter main post, then jump the solenoid post with a screw driver and see if the starter keeps spinning or if it cuts out. If it cuts out its a ground issue, if it keeps spinning, its a wire issue.

 

sounds like a plan ill let you know the results tomorrow.