Can someone tell me if I buy the AC delete heater box i can still use the AC blower motor that i have and all four speeds that comes with it instead of wiring all new stuff to a three speed motor? I was reading guys who bought adhesive foam weather stripping (3/4 inch thick) and just bolted the motor through that to the box. Also, on the box that hawks sells wheres the resistors that your supposed to plug into? Or am i better off going to a junkyard and pulling a non a/c box from a car/truck?

 

My other major concern is the freon that's still in the system. Where can I go to have this stuff successfully drained or do I really need to worry about it. Can I just dig in and start deleting the stuff like I want or no?

 

Bump for help

 

No, the non AC heater box has a different blower motor so find a used one w/ the motor and you're golden. The mounting flange for the motor is different, the AC one has a longer squirrel cage and will not git. You CAN remove the non AC wiring and use the original AC wiiring w/ high speed blower relay. Just mount the relay somewhere (or to the box) and connect the new non AC motor to the original wiring. It will bow much harder that way
It's the wiring that makes it 3 speeds, not the motor. 3 speed has the 3 diff resistor "springs" in the resistor bridge, 4 speed has additional hi speed (full 12V) blower relay

I have some pics of how I did it in my 87 build thread.

 

I must first off say WOW....your Iroc is amazing, lol.

To more of a pressing issue now. All you did in regards to the AC delete is just get the box, switch over the little 3 pin thingy, and that's it? How did you take out the old ac? Im just worried about freon going everywhere and I don't know how toxic it is.

 

Can one of you guys link me to that post in his build thread? I'd really like add that full 12V relay.

 

This is my build thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...t-my-87-a.html

the heater box stuff starts @ post 256

this is another thread about the AC delete
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...box-clean.html

 

Any shop that does A/C work can vacuum the old freon out for you - wouldn't think they'd charge much for that. That's the green way.

I'm not condoning the practice, but know that many folks just loosen up a line and let it flow.

The motor itself is the same between the boxes, it's just the fan (squirrel cage) that's different - non-AC is a smaller (shorter) fan cage. If your AC delete box is missing this fan, just grab another from any auto parts store.

 

What about something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-92...item335f06243f

 

That's what you want! Looks like that one is complete with fan, so you'll be set!

 

And does anyone know the thread size of a stock water pump? I was planning at the same time going ahead and doing a throttle body coolant bypass and I saw that a member did a cool one here at this thread.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...y-coolant.html

Just wanted to know the thread size so i could go ahead and buy the parts from performance stainless. Thanks.

 

I don't get it why people are always so stubborn here, the motors are NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the same!!! Do you think I'm yapping out of my a$$ here when I say they are not the same?

AC motor


non AC motor:


See that the non AC one is flat on one side and round for the rest? The other is not. The motor is clocked differently also w/ respect to the surge tube. The AC one will NOT!!!! fit the non AC box.

sheesh......

 

I just wanna know if the one I found on e at will work, twin turbo. If not, let me know.

 

Your ebay link is the correct bos, that will work. You will have to mount the hi speed relay somewhere, either on the firewall or on the box. I did the latter. I just added a 90deg bend to the little bracket (it's bolted to the original box where the 2 halves meet, next to the motor and evaporator box), take it off, bend it, drill 2 holes and use self tappers to mount. Easy peasy.

The only thing you need to realize is that the non AC box has 1 less bolt in the footwell area, it's readily accessible from the engine bay. Just use a small plug to plug it off.

The resistor bridge is the same bolt pattern on both, it can easily be swapped out.

 

Alright cool then I'll get that one. I wanna document the swap from AC to Non AC because there seems to not be a good swap thread with pictures on here. Hopefully I have your cooperation with this twin turbo, because I might get lost alittle.

 

Why remove the AC?

 

More room to work on the engine bay (plugs and headers). Plus it declutters the engine bay a lot. Also, if its not working, it comes down to the decision of "do I fix it or do I get rid of it? Which is more cost effective?" In my case, its the let me get rid of it because it makes my engine bay look good plus I can pay less getting rid of the damn thing.

 

exactly and in the climate here it's useless...and I always get a headache from the cold AC.

 

Sorry - I've read a hundred posts here where folks say the motors do not have to be changed, that just the squirrel fan has to be changed. Guess that is where I was confused by your post - sounded to me at the time that you were saying that the entire motor has to be swapped, which is not the case. Maybe the motors are different - not sure it makes any difference since I've never ever seen anyone selling the box without the motor in it.


Maybe this is a year to year thing? My non-A/C box had exactly the same studs and holes as my old A/C box - there was nothing left to plug when I installed mine.

 

Yes the motor has to be changed for the non AC one, the one from the AC box does not fit the delete box.

Check this AC box


The lowest hole on the left of the condensor bulge, next to the hard line. That one is not used on the AC delete and will leave an open hole in the firewall

 

Twin, can you tell me where on the ac system is the best place to take out the freon? Im planning on starting tomorrow so id appreciate the help man.

 

There should be two schrader valves on the lines (one on each). Take it to a shop, and they can evacuate the system with a refrigerant recovery machine. Releasing it into the atmosphere is illegal, and a bad idea.

 

Haha alright. No fun for me.

 

If you talk it up right, you can probably get it done for free. Most shops would be HAPPY to recover some free R12.

Just say, "Hey, I've got some R12 in a system that I'm removing from my car, if you want to recover it, it's yours!" If they DO charge, it'll probably be $20-$30 for the service, tops.

 

Alright cool man.

 

So i got all the parts in for my ac delete switch. went ahead and had a friends dad take out my freon for 20 bucks. went ahead and started to take everything off and i got confused.....am I to take all the hoses off first and then the electrical or does it make a difference. Also, will me leaving the AC radiator behind the real radiator for awhile make a huge difference? I was wondering if I could just go ahead and do this and let it be for awhile til i get more money to put in a new radiator. Lemme know.

 

It only takes maybe 5 minutes to get the condenser out - just take the top rad bracket off, push the top towards the engine a tad, and slide the condenser out the top. But you can leave it in there.

 

Okay so I did the A delete. Took me about 3 hours and lemme tel you that it looks AMAZING!!! So much more room in the engine bay on that one side. After I finished i decided to button her up and take her for a spin. The second i started down the street i threw a code (SES light went on) I thought that it went on because i havent wired in the connections for the ac delete box yet. Driving it down the street i decided ill give her a little punch and the car seemed to die. It reved from about 1500 to 4000 but there was no power. Then after about 3-5 seconds its like all the power kicked in at once and i shot off. I came to a red light and while she was idling, it seemed like she was gonna die. If i wanted to get her to go to a higher speed i would have to slowly give her gas, but i couldnt just floor it. Ima get a scanner soon but i just thought if anyone knew about these symptoms and a problem lemme know. Thanks.

 

You do not need a 'scan tool' - you have one already - it's called a paperclip:

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

 

Alright sooo I pulled the codes and I got a code 12,33, and 42. So no electrical system to the ECM, faulty maf, and some circuitry problem with the the spark and the fuelcutoff relay. With the symptoms I've stated does anyone know which code it could most likely be? I'm planning on getting rid of allyhree but I'd like to start at one first.

 

12 is normal code - everyone gets 12 when they pull codes - it's letting you know you are in diagnostic mode - so ignore it.

I know very little about MAF

So I'd look at 42 - car runs, so your getting fuel (ignore fuel relay circuit), and you have no direct ignition, so I'd say the EST - check and make sure the EST wire that you disconnect when changing timing is still connected - it's a single tan wire, comes out of pass wiring harness, has a connector in it, and goes rght back in the harness - usually by the strut tower.

 

I just checked the EST wire and its connected. Unfortunately car still runs like ****. Just wondering where to go from here.

 

Only other thing I can think of is that something else got disconnected during the A/C delete - look over everything again, make sure every connector is on a sensor and visa versa. While the car is running, try umplugging and replugging connectors to like the MAF, the CTS, etc. Like I said, I'm no TPI expert, so I don't know where to point you. Good Luck!

 

Well other than the obvious of my car not starting and it still throwing a code 42, I decided to put that aside and go ahead and finish my AC delete. This is what this thread is about anyway right. So today i went ahead and installed my AC delete box and boy. she sure does look pretty. Now regarding some of the wiring on the box, i changed the resistor from my AC unit over to this one. Also, i went ahead and copied Twin_Turbo and bent the hanger for my relay and bolted that to the box (Good idea man!!) Next, I know where the ground wire is and i will get to that tomorrow, i got kinda distracted with someone coming over. I know that there is another wire that need to be connected and somehow wired into the work of things, but i dont know how or where to even begin. Heres the thing, how do i get rid of all the ac stuff that i dont need anymore, cleanly that is. Im sure i can go in there and just start cutting stuff out but i dont want to make a mess and i want to keep this as clean as possible. Your help in the completion of this swap is crucial. thanks!!

 

Another option if you cant locate a non-AC blower motor/cage is to use the fan from a Fiero. It bolts in directly and the cage is the proper depth

 

bump for help

 

It's just a matter of removing it. If you have a serp belt setup you'll have to have an A/C delete pulley to put in place of the A/C compressor - everything else just gets removed.

 

Or you can leave the compressor in place. With the clutch unlocked its just an idler

 

hey can u use the orignal ac/heater (when use the 3 speed connector) control on the inside of the car or do u have to get to heater control

 

Code 42 is your knock sensor dude. Should be a single blue wire that runs to your knock sensor. Knock sensor is down underneath #6 and 8 cylinders. May have knocked the connector loose during your a/c box ordeal.

 

why use the 3 speed instead of the 3+hi speed relay??? If you use the stock panel w/ the 3 speed, the highest setting simply won't work.