Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

VATS problems

Old Aug 31, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
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VATS problems

hey fellas i have a 89 trans am and all of a sudden when i get in the car it wont start but after 180 seconds(vats reset) it will start...is that the module thats malfunctioning? if so, how do i rectify this problem? its quite annoying to have to sit 3min at the gas pump...thanks alot
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #2  
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Re: VATS problems

First thing I'd try is a new key - any ACE Hardware can make a new VATS key for about $20.

Inside the VATS key cylinder, there are very small contacts with springs behind them to hold them out - when the key is inserted, the contacts touch the pellet sides on the key. Over time ...

1) the springs can wear out or even fall out, so the key doesn't make good (or any) contact
2) the sides of the pellet in the key get worn down and no longer make good contact.

So your choices are:

1) try a new key
2) replace the key cylinder and key new keys cut for the new cylinder with the OLD resistance value in the pellet
3) Bypass the VATS
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Well guess that answers most of my questions lol out of the choices which is usually likely to malfunction? Also maybe I should mention that my ignition cylinder has gotten stuck in on a few occassions not allowing me to turn key forward....wouldn't pop out...but the constant no start and waiting happened suddenly
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Originally Posted by camaronewbie
First thing I'd try is a new key - any ACE Hardware can make a new VATS key for about $20.

Inside the VATS key cylinder, there are very small contacts with springs behind them to hold them out - when the key is inserted, the contacts touch the pellet sides on the key. Over time ...

1) the springs can wear out or even fall out, so the key doesn't make good (or any) contact
2) the sides of the pellet in the key get worn down and no longer make good contact.

So your choices are:

1) try a new key
2) replace the key cylinder and key new keys cut for the new cylinder with the OLD resistance value in the pellet
3) Bypass the VATS
Another question replacing the cylinder is that fairlt easy and would that definitely cure it or I may have to bypass the vats anyway?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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Re: VATS problems

If a worn out lock cylinder is the problem and you want to retain the Vats system, the only thing that makes it more difficult than pulling the wheel and lock plate to get to the cylinder and remove it is snaking the wire to the Vats connector up through the column with a wire or string attached so you can pull the new one back down to the connector. The cylinder costs more and since many people feel it will only eventually fail again, the bypass is cheaper and ultimately more reliable. A little less security, but there are other ways to protect your car.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Originally Posted by henryd3
If a worn out lock cylinder is the problem and you want to retain the Vats system, the only thing that makes it more difficult than pulling the wheel and lock plate to get to the cylinder and remove it is snaking the wire to the Vats connector up through the column with a wire or string attached so you can pull the new one back down to the connector. The cylinder costs more and since many people feel it will only eventually fail again, the bypass is cheaper and ultimately more reliable. A little less security, but there are other ways to protect your car.

Makes sense....well how do I go about bypassing the VATS? Is it something I can do myself? I'm mechanically inclined...is it easy? Thanks
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Pretty easy. It's outlined here https://www.thirdgen.org/vats
You can actually cut about one or two inches above the connector, you only need enough wire to be able to solder a resistor to

Last edited by henryd3; Aug 31, 2010 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Just glanced at the article again. It mentions two yellow wires. They are actually usually in a bright orange sleeve, so look for an orange wire down near the bottom of the column that has a small connector. Disconnect them and cut off the end of the orange one which is now removable to put the resistor on. When finished simply plug back in and you're done. You might want to slap some tape over the resistor end for insulation
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Hey man thanks a lot...I skimmed over the article but do I need just one resisitor or 2?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Originally Posted by henryd3
Just glanced at the article again. It mentions two yellow wires. They are actually usually in a bright orange sleeve, so look for an orange wire down near the bottom of the column that has a small connector. Disconnect them and cut off the end of the orange one which is now removable to put the resistor on. When finished simply plug back in and you're done. You might want to slap some tape over the resistor end for insulation
Ok so is it that I'm cuttin in between the wires plug and where it connects to the ignition so I can use the plug to plug it back in? Jus wanna get a good mental understanding before I do this
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Yep, cut on the orange part. You could disable your car anytime by just unplugging it, but it's kind of an inconvenient location unless you reroute the wires a bit.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Re: VATS problems

What do these resistors look like? So essentially I unplug the end cut that end soder ot to the resistor and soder the other end connected to the ign cylinder plug back in and job done?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Sorry, I wish I could be technically adept enough to get a diagram on her for you. Don't do anything until you have a clear idea of how this works.When I was figuring this out I did an internet search for GM Vats systems and got a better idea of how to bypass it. Try that or perhaps one of the better equipped members of TGO can post a diagram of the procedure. I apologize, I don't want to mislead you
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Ok will do but I thank u for u help thus far
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Okay, I think I can explain this, but I'll probably use up more words than most people and someone may already have helped you by the time I'm done typing this, but here goes anyway. Imagine two wires going from the Vats module to the ignition cylinder with a plug in between. You want to interrupt this circuit cutting halfway in between. Forget about the end connected to the ignition cylinder. You take the two ends of the pieces of wires coming from the Vats module and solder the resistor between these two ends and you've got it. Since it's really hard to work under the dash like that, instead cut the wires between the plug and the ignition cylinder.. Unplug it and you have a plug with two wires attached. solder the resistor between those two wires. Now go plug it back in and try starting the car. It should now work. Does that make sense?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Re: VATS problems

I really don't want to make this more confusing,but am adding this link to show some of the photos. Also there is a section I put in that thread that I think will be helpful.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...stor-help.html
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Originally Posted by henryd3
Okay, I think I can explain this, but I'll probably use up more words than most people and someone may already have helped you by the time I'm done typing this, but here goes anyway. Imagine two wires going from the Vats module to the ignition cylinder with a plug in between. You want to interrupt this circuit cutting halfway in between. Forget about the end connected to the ignition cylinder. You take the two ends of the pieces of wires coming from the Vats module and solder the resistor between these two ends and you've got it. Since it's really hard to work under the dash like that, instead cut the wires between the plug and the ignition cylinder.. Unplug it and you have a plug with two wires attached. solder the resistor between those two wires. Now go plug it back in and try starting the car. It should now work. Does that make sense?
Hey man that makes perfect sense check back in a day or 2 give u the outcome.. thanks forue help.. oh 2 things how do I find out what the resistance is of the chip on my keys and do these resistors have contact points to soder the wires to?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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Re: VATS problems

You test for resistance with a multimeter set to ohms. One lead on the little pellet on one side of the key and the other to the other side. Take the key to radio shack and ask them to do it and then to give you a matching resistor. A resistor is a skinny little cylindrical thing with solid wire sticking out of both ends. One end to one wire, one to the other.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Re: VATS problems

Make a copy of the chart in here and take it with you. Your key will match one of these values https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
Now when you make spare ignition keys you don't need expensive Vats keys, just normal ones that turn the cylinder
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