Hey everybody, I have a bone stock 92 RS automatic. Just picked the car up a couple of days ago, and I'm having gauge issues. The speedometer does not work 80% of the time, but every once in a while will suddenly start working. My temp gauge is about 20 degrees to hot, I have the infamous tach issue, the oil preassure reads 0 going down the road unless I get into it a bit. And I'm pretty sure my gas gauge is way off as well.

Is this as simple as replacing my entire gauge cluster, or do I have mOre serious problems? Thank.

 

As the gauges rely on inputs I would be checking the sending units / wiring 1st before replacing cluster.

Bad grounds also give intermittent problems

 

Okay, I'll check those out first. With the speedometer is there some sort of VSS on the transmission? Or is there something else that controls the speedometer on these cars? I'm an ex Honda guy, so pretty new to the v8 world and how these cars are put together. I need to go and buy a repair manual asap...

 

For that year I believe that the VSS is on the transmission. The cluster has a flex circuit on the back that can become dirty and/or corroded. They can also crack. Also look at the contacts where they plug into the back. You can try cleaning the contacts if they are dirty. I agree it sounds more like a ground issue if everything is going haywire.

As for a manual I recommend buying a GM one from Helms. >Here
They're expensive but well worth it.
You can try clicking on the direct link below, but I'm not sure it will work.

 

I do a lot of circuit board work, and before I work on a board for soldering I always clean with carb cleaner. When you say the circuit board on the back of the cluster becomes dirty and corroded, what are you using to clean it? Some electrical contact cleaner, or would I still be able to spray it down with some carb cleaner?

Also thanks for the link to the shop manual, it is a bit expensive but I'm sure very much worth it.

And when it comes to ground wires, what ground wires do I need to be looking at? I'm not in a BIG hurt to get this cluster working, for I have my GPS I can use as a speedometer. I'm just more worried about my fuel gauge as I don't know how accurate it is. And I really don't want to mount aftermarket 2 1/16 gauges if I don't have to.

 

I usually use a little alcohol on a Q-tip to clean the contacts, carb cleaner seems a little harsh to me and may damage the plastic on the flex circuit.

The way the flex circuit is on the back allows the contacts to deform as well. So dirt is only part of the issue. I've also seen them crack from becoming brittle from age. If you pull the cluster you should easily be able to tell the condition by looking at it (better than I can describe it to you). You could also run continuity checks on that to rule that out, and also identify the ground circuit on the cluster. Then test the ground at the connector at the dash to the chassis ground.

I know what you're saying about not knowing where you’re gas gage is at. I have two cars now that have typical issues with that. Sometimes it’s more of a PITA to fix due to parts availability. Plus the sending unit is inside the gas tank. I just fill up every 200-300 miles depending on mileage. The trip ODO is my gas gauge. Lol

FWIW, I mounted a couple of temporary gauges for a recent rebuild because the stock ones are usually not as accurate. You can use a screw location under the dash at the far RH side (by your right knee) and the other under the dash pad on the LH side (but you’d have to remove the vent for it to fit).

 

Thanks for all of that info I'm finding it extremely helpful for sure. I did just now replace my water temperature sensor, and now my temp gauge seems to be working properly. Sits a little under 220 and when the fan/thermostat kicks in the gauge drops to the line between 100 and 220. Just have to march down the line until I have everything fixed, not the first car I've had to do this to and I'm sure not the last. Just needing the right direction to start at so I'm not killing myself trying to figure all of this out without a repair manual or the proper knowledge. Thanks again!

 

If the tach is bouncing it's your ignition control module, if it reads outrageously high then it's the tiny little board under the tach. I just replaced mine so i feel your pain lol.

 

Yeah, it's reading crazy high lol. Oh the highway at 70MPH it reads 7k RPM lol I doubt a stock 305 will turn 7k RPM. I'm just going to take care of one things at a time. Next step is the speedometer, I don't think it is the VSS because it does not work unless you have been driving around for a while. Then it will suddenly start working again until you shut the car off. So I'm thinking is a ground or some other electrical issue.

 

ok, vss first. it's on the drivers side of the transmission right above the cross member. there is a two prong connector with a black and yellow wire, check that they don't easily pull out of the connector. as for testing a bad ground on the dash, before you pull it out give the hush panel underneath a good whack or two with the car on. if speedo starts working then the cluster isn't seated all the way.

 

Hush panel? And how do these clusters mount to the dash? Does it just bolt in, and then there are a bunch of cables that plug into the back of it? Also so I'm not tearing things up, how do I get to the cluster to get it out? The top part of my dash is in pretty rough shape with all the heat cracks it has.

 

I have to replace a bulb in mine, so give me an hour and i'll take pictures of the process for you.

 

Thanks!

 

Im having issues with the pictures so bear with me

 

It's fine I'm having issues with the car running hot and the fan not coming on soon enough lol... It's such a pain inheriting another person's car problems...

 

This is the order you're going to be removing your cluster in



remove the 2 T30 torx bolts from the hush panel



excuse the dark picture, press the silver button and pull the headlight **** out. turn the headlights on first so you can see the button easier.

 

there are 4 7 mm bolts on the bottom here, remove them from the gauge bezel and cluster.



grab the bezel from where you removed 2 bolts and gently pull around the edges until it pops out.

remove the fog light switch on the left side (if you have it) and the cigarette lighter/ defroster switch on the right side



there are 2 more 7 mm bolts on the top of the cluster

 

Pull and tilt the cluster forward to easily remove the 7 7/32nd bolts from the cluster DO NOT remove the 2 bolts from the clear section to the black piece, it is unnecessary.



tilt the steering wheel down as far as it can go, tilt the cluster forward and CAREFULLY pull it out and up between the steering wheel and dash pad.

If you look closely I broke off my trip reset

 

Wow dude, nice pictures and detail. Umm.. I wonder if we can sticky this because I never would of guessed everything right away on removing that bad boy. Thanks again for the instructions! Oh, btw nice B&M shifter and interior

 

Not a problem, I'm glad it helped. If you need anything else PM me.

 

So is it possible to remove the cluster WITHOUT breaking the trip odometer..???? Stone

 

My steering wheel snapped back up because I let go. On every other cluster I replaced I haven't broken the trip reset, so just used two hands.