Hi I have an 1989 IROC Camaro with a 305 tpi. The problem is about a year ago i stopped at a wawa to get something to eat and when i went back to turn my car on the radio and all interior lights turned on but the car would not crank so i parked the car over night went back the next day and it turned right over. this happened a few more times untill about 6 months ago my car stopped starting for good. I hot wired my starter to a button but the thing is the button doesnt work unless the key works. It seems like the car starts when it wants. i just changed my ignition tumbler out today and the car after a few trys (because its been sitting) started up. but i turned it off and the same thing is happening again now i was told it could be a few things. Stater solenoid, alternator, resistor in the key (but i changed the ignition with new keys also and its having the same problem) or a starter relay but then was told the car doesnt have a starter relay. What do you guys think this is bugging the hell out of me thanks
Joe

 

I would start checking my entire Ignition System starting with plugs/wires, distributor, starter etc...my 86 Z28 did the same thing

 

It's your VATS Security system acting funny. Here is a quick and easy fix.

Behind your drivers side kick panel (where your hood latch is) There should be a relay with 4 wires going to it. Un mount the relay, pull the black plastic cover off of the top of the relay to expose the contacts. Now there should be a metal lever that moves just a little bit to make contact and complete the circuit. Simply wrap the lever with electrical tape so that it is always in contact with it's contact point. This will give the signal to your computer that says you have the correct key inserted and your car will crank everytime. Hope this helps!
-Sean

 

This will bypass the starter relay but not the rest of the VATS system. If it is the vats system try the resistor mod or a bypass module. However with the work you have done I would check to see if the VATS is reading with a multimeter at the disconnect for the VATS wires (orange covering over white wires) under the dash with other column wiring. If this is consistently good I would start looking else where but admittedly the VATS module could be bad.
I haven't ever found the module on my car.

 

Here's the VATS articles to assist you:

www.thirdgen.org/vats
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

Here's a starter circuit troubleshoot guide:

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38

Your car does have a Starter Enable Relay - ALL VATS cars do. It's usually in the driver side kick panel close to the hood release (sometimes under the black goo).

The starter enable relay cannot simply be bypassed if it's a VATS issue - VATS also sends a signal to the ECM telling it it's OK to fire the injectors - bypassing the relay will allow the starter to turn, but won't allow the car to run (no fuel injectors firing).

You could also have an issue with anything along that starter circuit troubleshoot guide. I know on mine, I have an issue with my Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) - the connector doesn't want to stay connected well to it - took me over a year to finally figure out the issue - a simple rubber band keeps it tight now. So, these things can get annoying.

 

My car does the same thing but there is a loose wire somwhere under my dash. All I end up doing is grabbing the fuse box under my dash and give it a jiggle while holding the key in the start postion. It works everytime I have the issue. I had the issue a while ago but had no idea what it was so I had the car towed twice on 2 different occasions. If it was working fine then all of a sudden stopped try looking for a loose wire just above your pedals.