I'm back, and I need help again. Thankfully its not the fuel pump this time (that was a pain) (My car is a 1990 Camaro RS for those who don't remember me). Anyways, me and my grandpa have been working on my Camaro (came pretty close to selling it on craigslist) and since some idiots tried to steal it a few years ago and broke off the side of the column near the ignition, we decided to buy a new steering column (we got it from a place like a pick-a-part, that specializes in steering columns, it was off of a Z28, it was most likely a 1990 to a 1992 model from the looks of it, it was a tilt steering wheel like mine). Anyways we got the old one out and put the new one in (after we took the gas tank out and put in a new fuel assembly and pump). Now we tried to start the car, the first two clicks of the key did what they were supposed to do, but when we try to turn the car over, it doesn't even make an attempt to turn over. The temp gauge goes all the way to the top, the radio turns off and so on, what the car normally does when you start it, but it doesn't do anything. I can hear the fuel pump sending gas to the engine on the click before the last one to start the car. There is one plug that I can't find a connection to, I'm not sure if its important or not.

Is this plug for the ignition? or is it for an addition of something? and I don't need a wiring diagram (I already have the repair manual for that) I just wanna know if its for anything useful (also, I can't read wiring diagrams that well.......). Lastly, I have this yellow thing hooked up properly (at least I'm sure I do anyways), but I'm wondering if this thing might be a cause of the car not. What I'm really asking is: what the heck does it do?
starting

 

I have also done some searching, but found no real help on this subject (someone helped one guy, but they posted a wiring diagram, which, I can't really understand). but yeah, my real problem is the car not starting.

 

The first picture is of your ob1 port, which is where you plug the code scanner in to read codes. Im thinking your problem might be the VATs (vehicle anti theft system). Im not very familiar with the VATS system as I my experience with it was disabling it for my LS1 swap. I believe that if you take the key and lock cylinder from the old column and put in your new one it should start. Someone correct me if I am wrong on that. There are other ways to fix this such as totally disabling the VATS (which I would not recomend as some one has already to steal it). Do a search for VATS on here and you will turn up more info on it than you ever wanted.

 

As mentioned, first pic is the data port for the computer - this is where you get your codes retreived when there's a check engine light.

Second pic is the ignition switch. It has a cable that runs to the shifter to keep you from starting the car in gear, and the ignition wiring.

Given that the car "clicked" when you turned the key, I'd say you probably have the ignition switch connected correctly.

The VATS issue ... 1989+ cars had VATS, prior years did not. You can tell by the key - if the key for the new steering column has a chip or "pellet" in the key, then it's a VATS column. BUT - your VATS module (in the car) may have a different value than the key from the new steering column. The "pellet" is actually a resistor - there were 15 different resistors. If the new column has an orange sleeve running down the column with two white wires inside, those are the VATS wires. The key makes the connection, with the resistance inline, and sets the module in the car to "on", thus allowing the car to start.

IF the new column has the VATS key and the VATS wires, then you need to have a new key cut to match the new steering column key, but with the same "pellet" as the old steering column key. You can use a ohm meter and measure the resistance in each key to check to see if by chance they are both the same.

OR, you can bypass the VATS all together by inserting a resistor on the car side of those VATS wires that matches the resistance value of the OLD key.

The VATS does two things - 1) activates the starter enable relay to allow the starter to turn, and 2) activates the car's computer to allow it to power the fuel injectors.

Now - your car "clicked" - was this the starter clicking or the relay clicking? Chances are, if you heard the click easily, it was the starter that clicked (the relay click is very quiet). This tells me that either 1) your VATS is working correctly at least partially, or 2) the starter enable relay has been bypassed in the past.

So - given the "click", I'm slightly confused.

So try this - take a 10 guage wire (nice hefty wire), touch it to the starter terminal where the PURPLE wire is connected, and touch other end to the battery POS terminal with the key ON - will car start and run?

If it starts and runs, then you simply have an issue on that purple starter wire - look though this guide: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38

If the starter turns, but the car will not start, then I'd say it's not getting fuel, ie it's a VATS issue where the starter enable relay has been bypassed (and thus the starter runs), but your not getting fuel (VATS module is not turning on the computer to power the injectors) - and in this case, I'd look at bypassing the VATS system at least as a test to see if that enables the car to start AND run. If bypassing works, then you can go back in, correct the VATS issue with the right key, or install an aftermarlet alarm, or whatever to avoid car being stolen in the future.

Hope that makes sense.

VATS bypass info: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=41

 

thanks you guys, I think that might be the problem. Yeah, the new key has the little "pellet" in the key like my old one, and when we wired a the positive from the battery to one of those wire checker things with a light on it that checks to see if whatever wire is hot and had that connected (rather, poked into) the purple wire, and the engine does try to turn over, but it doesn't start, (even with the key on aux or when I have it on start), so I'll try the one part of putting the old pellet in the new key first maybe (it can't be too hard to do that...........right?). Also, the click was just meaning I turned the key another "click", not a sound click really, I know what this car's "click" sounds like when you try to start it and it doesn't have enough power, it makes alot of loud clicks, but these werent those kind of clicks.

but yeah, me and my grandpa gotta take a rest real quick, more him than me, the guy is almost 80 and he's helping me with this, not to mention we just put all of the heat shields, the exhaust pipes and muffler, and the rear tires put back on. So we'll be back out there in a while and try this, Thanks again for your help, I'll post if anything happenes

 

You can't take the pellet out and swap it - you have to get a new key with the OLD pellet resistance value cut to fit the new steering column cylinder.

 

actually, we did, lol, and it worked

http://youtu.be/uMtORR3FF8Q

THANKS GUYS, we got her running again, and thanks camaronewbie, seems that the old pellet was needed, VATS can be a paint sometimes, lol. Hey, does anyone know if chevy would be able to make me a spare key with the pellet from my spare key? or anyone else that could do that? because when we bought the column, it didn't have the spare key with it (the car was a wreck, didn't suprise me).

Also, the rear hatch motor doesn't seem to be working, I mean, the back won't even latch shut and close (which, I've shut it before without any power, it'll latch, but the motor won't pull it down with no power of course). Anyone know what the problem is? Man, this car just doesn't like me, we cleaned out the interior and such and now this happens, almost like it doesn't want to be driven anymore.

 

Spares are available at any ACE Hardware for about $25 - cheaper than most dealers. If you don't have ACE in your area, try True Value or other large chain hardware (not Lowes/Home Depot) or maybe larger parts stores.