I've noticed that my signals' speed varies depending on how much power i'm using amongst other things. For example if I'm driving and turn the signal on (either left or right with headlights off) they blink fine. Sometimes faster if the engine is idling fast (not to much faster,but I notice.) Then if I turn the headlights on, they slow down. Turn the lights off and they speed up again. It's always been this way. As in the turn signals were never consistent. Is that normal? Is it also normal for my battery gauge to bounce a little when the signals are on?

 

Mine does the exact same thing! I'd love an answer as to why this happens. I also wonder if we used a load-free flasher unit if this would speed up the signal with our lights on.

 

I put an electronic flasher in once but the tick it made was too...annoying? Im pick with originality and the louder more older sounding flasher I like better. If that makes ANY sense.

 

Well the prob lies int the charging sys older f bodys with the 2 wires alt can use a 94 amp alt and it with newer tpi no serp well they dnt sell higher amp in parts stores so u have to by a 200 alt online. Its also a wire trick with the wires make 1 longer.

 

I don't quite understand what you're saying. Should I get a higher amperage alternator?

 

I'm not convinced it's my alternator. My charging system works pretty well on my car. Also, my alternator is fairly new. Not sure of the amps though.

 

Mine is a rebuilt one after my original froze up and caused me to have my camaro towed! Not sure what amperage it is though.

 

I'm sorry I just talk different. Just to sum it up, under loads it pulls more amps than it holds, just look at your amp meter how it drops. My friends 15th Ann TA I put a stronger amp and he no longer had that prob. The auto parts store didn't have a higher amp alt so I was stuck. I have a new battery and alt and mine do the same. I do a lot of late night racing and I sit in my car with the heat or radio on while the car running or me at a light with the lights on and I'm at 9v after a while it cuts off and won't start till it charges itself or get a jump.

 

OH I understand now. Maybe I'll see if I can find a better alternator. it may help me in more ways than I think. Who knows. Is it possible to have too big of an alternator?

 

sounds like you are getting abnormal voltage drop-
possibly a bad engine to body ground connection or a
weak alternator. One fault that can occur with stock
alternators converted to higher amps is they often don't
put out well at idle RPM because less turns must be
used in the stator winding in order to get the higher
peak output amps.

 

Alright, so what can or should I check? It's not so much of a big deal ( I hope it isn't.)I as just curious about it.

 

Try checking to see what AMP alternator you have, they come in several variations, 78/110/140. (Maybe more.) Whatever you have, go to the next size up. You may be able to take the car to a local garage, NAPA, or Autozone and they should check the Amps for free.
FYI I had this problem in a different car, when I sat at a stoplight waiting to turn, the blinker would slow down. If I power braked,(brake and rev the engine,) the blinker would speed up. Problem ended up being my alternator was dying.

 

Do I have to remove it for them to test it, or can I just go there and they do it in the car?

 

Yelp hit the gas and it go back up after awhile mine don't do that. It stay low, I tune it off after like 30 mins or more its fine

 

you can check the alternator with a hand-held voltmeter
-with engine running,turn on all lights and anything
else that pulls a lot of current such as heater blower
and take a voltmeter reading between good ground on
engine and the output stud on the alternator;if readingis less than around 13.5,alternator is weak because of bad
diode or bad stator connection.

 

Oh that seems simple enough! Ill give it a try.