Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
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Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
Car is a '91 RS 305tbi auto. The prolem is intermittent. When I turn the key to start, I hear the solenoid click but that's it. No turning over. I usually have to do this several times and then it will eventually start like normal. Occaionally it will start on the first try. I replaced the starter the first time and it worked correctly for about a week then started acting up more and more again. Replaced the starter again and no change; still acting up.
I've got a starter enable relay on the way just because it's cheap and easy to swap to rule that out.
I keep thiking it has to be a loose wire or connection somewhere since it worked briefly when I changed the starter the first time but I don't see anything obvious.
Any other ideas of what I should check?
.
I've got a starter enable relay on the way just because it's cheap and easy to swap to rule that out.
I keep thiking it has to be a loose wire or connection somewhere since it worked briefly when I changed the starter the first time but I don't see anything obvious.
Any other ideas of what I should check?
.
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From: Sydney, Australia
Car: '86 TA
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
Battery cables, terminals and grounds. Look for looseness or corrosion. Give each connection a good tug.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
Ah, you got the Chevy plague, sorry to hear.
There are multiple possible reasons for this (one of them of course being the standard "it's a Chevy"
).
One common reason (besides what TreeFiddy already mentioned) is parasitic resistance in the starting circuit, i.e. the ignition switch, Starter Enable Relay, automatic shifter switch (or clutch pedal switch) etc. Some of these can develop burns and oxidation over time on the contacts which increases their resistance while decreasing the current flowing (given constant voltage). The lower current is enough to pull the bendix out of the housing and hit the teeth on the flywheel but not enough to push the bendix all the way in and engage the starter motor.
An easy test is to just use a screwdriver (or other means) under the car to connect the starting post (with the purple wire) to the positive post on the starter solenoid.
BE CAREFUL, make sure the car is in park, emergency brake set and that the car cannot possibly roll. We want to keep our TGO members alive.
You could make it simple for you by adding another wire to your starter terminal, on top of the purple wire. It should have the same thickness, btw. Run it toward the battery but leave it capped. And when you want to perform the test, you can uncap it and touch it to the battery positive terminal.
This test, in short, bypasses all the contacts inside your car and under the dash, eliminating any extra resistance. If the starter won't engage right, it is not an electrical problem. If it start flawlessly every time, you got your winner. The solution should be simple. But we can discuss that when we know the result for sure.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
There are multiple possible reasons for this (one of them of course being the standard "it's a Chevy"
).One common reason (besides what TreeFiddy already mentioned) is parasitic resistance in the starting circuit, i.e. the ignition switch, Starter Enable Relay, automatic shifter switch (or clutch pedal switch) etc. Some of these can develop burns and oxidation over time on the contacts which increases their resistance while decreasing the current flowing (given constant voltage). The lower current is enough to pull the bendix out of the housing and hit the teeth on the flywheel but not enough to push the bendix all the way in and engage the starter motor.
An easy test is to just use a screwdriver (or other means) under the car to connect the starting post (with the purple wire) to the positive post on the starter solenoid.
BE CAREFUL, make sure the car is in park, emergency brake set and that the car cannot possibly roll. We want to keep our TGO members alive.
You could make it simple for you by adding another wire to your starter terminal, on top of the purple wire. It should have the same thickness, btw. Run it toward the battery but leave it capped. And when you want to perform the test, you can uncap it and touch it to the battery positive terminal.
This test, in short, bypasses all the contacts inside your car and under the dash, eliminating any extra resistance. If the starter won't engage right, it is not an electrical problem. If it start flawlessly every time, you got your winner. The solution should be simple. But we can discuss that when we know the result for sure.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
The first one was a Pep Boys one that the previous owner recently put on. I put on a NAPA one, then an Autozone one.
Ah, you got the Chevy plague, sorry to hear.
There are multiple possible reasons for this (one of them of course being the standard "it's a Chevy" ).
One common reason (besides what TreeFiddy already mentioned) is parasitic resistance in the starting circuit, i.e. the ignition switch, Starter Enable Relay, automatic shifter switch (or clutch pedal switch) etc. Some of these can develop burns and oxidation over time on the contacts which increases their resistance while decreasing the current flowing (given constant voltage). The lower current is enough to pull the bendix out of the housing and hit the teeth on the flywheel but not enough to push the bendix all the way in and engage the starter motor.
An easy test is to just use a screwdriver (or other means) under the car to connect the starting post (with the purple wire) to the positive post on the starter solenoid.
BE CAREFUL, make sure the car is in park, emergency brake set and that the car cannot possibly roll. We want to keep our TGO members alive.
You could make it simple for you by adding another wire to your starter terminal, on top of the purple wire. It should have the same thickness, btw. Run it toward the battery but leave it capped. And when you want to perform the test, you can uncap it and touch it to the battery positive terminal.
This test, in short, bypasses all the contacts inside your car and under the dash, eliminating any extra resistance. If the starter won't engage right, it is not an electrical problem. If it start flawlessly every time, you got your winner. The solution should be simple. But we can discuss that when we know the result for sure.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
There are multiple possible reasons for this (one of them of course being the standard "it's a Chevy"
).One common reason (besides what TreeFiddy already mentioned) is parasitic resistance in the starting circuit, i.e. the ignition switch, Starter Enable Relay, automatic shifter switch (or clutch pedal switch) etc. Some of these can develop burns and oxidation over time on the contacts which increases their resistance while decreasing the current flowing (given constant voltage). The lower current is enough to pull the bendix out of the housing and hit the teeth on the flywheel but not enough to push the bendix all the way in and engage the starter motor.
An easy test is to just use a screwdriver (or other means) under the car to connect the starting post (with the purple wire) to the positive post on the starter solenoid.
BE CAREFUL, make sure the car is in park, emergency brake set and that the car cannot possibly roll. We want to keep our TGO members alive.
You could make it simple for you by adding another wire to your starter terminal, on top of the purple wire. It should have the same thickness, btw. Run it toward the battery but leave it capped. And when you want to perform the test, you can uncap it and touch it to the battery positive terminal.
This test, in short, bypasses all the contacts inside your car and under the dash, eliminating any extra resistance. If the starter won't engage right, it is not an electrical problem. If it start flawlessly every time, you got your winner. The solution should be simple. But we can discuss that when we know the result for sure.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
Thanx for the info! I'll try that test over the weekend and let you know what I find. I already replaced the start enable relay with no change by the way. Figured it was a cheap thing to check.
.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
I have the EXACT same problem. I'm on my second new starter.
After trying to get it to start a friend decided to try to jump start it and It fired right up. I went and bought a new battery and it didn't fix the problem. however when I jump started It the car started. I thInk the car needs more power In order to start. I also noticed when jump starting it took a LARGE load on the other vehicle.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I want to find the solution to this.
After trying to get it to start a friend decided to try to jump start it and It fired right up. I went and bought a new battery and it didn't fix the problem. however when I jump started It the car started. I thInk the car needs more power In order to start. I also noticed when jump starting it took a LARGE load on the other vehicle.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I want to find the solution to this.
Last edited by Buggy Disaster; Sep 22, 2012 at 07:16 PM.
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From: Mountain City, TN
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 L98 Carb
Transmission: WC T5
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
I had an alarm system put on my 92 back when I was out in Los Angeles in 2005. Seems the older it got, the problems then started.. I had basically the same symptoms to happen to me.. replaced the starter, the ignition switch ( both key and electrical part ), replaced the Neutral Safety switch, VATS bypass mod and even re-wired the fusible links above the starter.. Well to make a long story short, I ended up pulling the 2 10-gauge wires out of the original starter enable relay block and connecting them together ( If I'm not mistaken, there are the 2 10-gauge wires and 2 more 16-18 gauge wires that compose the block for the relay) Ever since then, I haven't had any problems with starting it. One of those 'mystery' things there and I don't know if it solved the problem completely but it's starting and works, so I'm leaving it at that!
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Re: Starter Solenoid Clicking But Won't Start
Car is a '91 RS 305tbi auto. The prolem is intermittent. When I turn the key to start, I hear the solenoid click but that's it. No turning over. I usually have to do this several times and then it will eventually start like normal. Occaionally it will start on the first try. I replaced the starter the first time and it worked correctly for about a week then started acting up more and more again. Replaced the starter again and no change; still acting up.
I've got a starter enable relay on the way just because it's cheap and easy to swap to rule that out.
I keep thiking it has to be a loose wire or connection somewhere since it worked briefly when I changed the starter the first time but I don't see anything obvious.
Any other ideas of what I should check?
.
I've got a starter enable relay on the way just because it's cheap and easy to swap to rule that out.
I keep thiking it has to be a loose wire or connection somewhere since it worked briefly when I changed the starter the first time but I don't see anything obvious.
Any other ideas of what I should check?
.
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