does anyone know how to replace it? i took off the cover and i can see the bulb deep down in the switch. how do i get it out? tweezers? also, what kind of bulb is it?

anybody?

does it pull out? do you have to twist it? Does anybody know??

alright, apparently nobody knows what's up with this so i went ahead and took the switch apart. Turns out the light bulbs are non-serviceable and cannot be taken out. Thanks a lot, GM! I'm going to clean up the contacts and check radio shack to see if they have an LED equivalent.

Here's a couple of pictures of the switch innards:

Let us know if you find something. My hatch release button no longer lights up and would like to fix it.

make sure you grab some 1k resisters to solder onto the leds

Lol glad I'm not the only one! It should be the same deal as with this fog light switch. The bulbs are soldered onto contacts. I looked on radio shack and they have LEDs that look like they will work. I'll report back when it's done. The only thing I don't know is how many volts go to the bulb because with LEDs they're either on or off. Of its below minimum voltage it won't light. I think it'll work though.

Thanks, Brian! Why do I need resisters? Just asking for my own knowledge since I'm not a electronics whiz.

I didn't know this works off a dimmer. if you run 12v too a led it will be real bright for a few seconds then the magic smoke comes out.

the heater control uses the similar bulb that is labeled JKL 37. you can ben down the socket wires and solder them in.

https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/37

LOL magic smoke. you crack me up, dude!

i'm not sure how much voltage was going to the old bulb. the old one wasn't LED.

Here's a link to the LEDs i was thinking of using:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tent=CT2032233

This is, of course, contingent. i was going to do some in store comparison.

just solder a 1k resister on the short leg of the led this is the cathode negative side. should work but you might want to build a test one before you solder it in and plug in the switch and touch the led/resister leads to the switch.

brian, i see there are 1k resisters with different wattage ratings (1/2, 1/4, 1, etc...) which one should i get?

mark, 1/4 or 1/2 doesn't matter the led is only 25ma

I just slapped together the heater control wiring with some leds and resisters works great.

awesome! i'm heading out to the shack to pick up the parts now.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2103780#

Here is a link to the bulbs the fog light switch came with (pretty sure. looks exactly like it), for those who don't want to go the LED route.

correction: the correct part # is 272-1141. the part i listed before is too small.

Finished up the switch. i decided to replace all 3 bulbs with LEDs. Here's a pic of my work. I know, not the best soldering job, but its better than nothing.

[IMG][/IMG]

but the big question does it work ? I ran several leds today off 12v and used a 330 resister so if the leds are not bright enough you might want too give that a go.

i just hope i don't blow anything up lol

no you just might play the game what wire did the magic smoke come from. fun game it can take hours too win. lol

well some good news: i decided to do some continuity checks on my work and the lights are operational! Granted, this is under voltage ranging from 1.5->3 volts, but the LEDs shine pretty good under that voltage. I have a power probe 3 so i can check it under the full 12 volts off the car so i don't fry my aged wiring. I'll report back tomorrow with how it does and pics of how it looks.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

pics of the indicator lit up and which pins activated it.

nice work mark

couldn't have done it without your guidance, Brain!

Looking good!

Now I forget do these dim with the dimmer or are they a set brightness? I could just go down and look at my my car but I'm lazy lol

if my memory serves me, the lights for the buttons only come on when the parking light/headlight button is pressed. so it's just an on or off situation. and obviously, the fog light indicator comes on when the fog lights are on.

I'll putting it back in the car soon, so i'll have pics later!

Hmm it doesn't want to work when connected to the car. When looking at the switch from the back (with parking lights on, fogs off), upper right is grounded, upper middle has battery power, upper left is grounded, lower left is grounded, and lower right has a value of 10.6 on my power probe. It's not flashing + or -.

When I turn the fogs on, again looking from the back, top right is grounded, upper middle and upper left have battery voltage, lower left is reading 10.9 and lower right is reading 10.5. Both lower pins don't set off the + or - lights. Does that mean there's a short?

Btw, the fog lights still work. Yay!

do you have a schematic of the circuit ?

LOL yeah i got my FSM. plus now that i'm thinking of it, when i tested it off the car, i applied power to the upper right pin. but now when it's on the car that pin is grounded. the only pins that have power are the upper middle and upper left.

LEDs are diodes so they don't really have any resistance to speak off that would limit the current flowing thru them. Without a resistor, the current will be thru the roof and will instantly destroy the LED. Always use a resistor.

ah ha! thank you for explaining that. you learn something everyday.

ok, here's what's going on: the panel lights (buttons) and fog lights on light are not working.

When testing it off the car, the indicator light works when i apply power to pin that the black wire goes to on top-right, and ground the pin the purple wire goes to on bottom-left.

To get the panel lights (for the buttons) to work, i applied power to the pin the black wire goes to on top-right , and ground the Pin the gray wire goes to on the bottom-right.

What i'm thinking: i think it's weird that i have to apply power to the pin that goes to ground (the black wire). It seems to me, for the switch's illumination to work, the gray wire should be bringing in the power, not the black one. It's like it's working backwards, despite me wiring up the bulbs the same way...

hold that thought...i think if i turn the LEDs around they'll work...stay tuned.

im staying tuned, lol

There's another characteristic that LEDs have that you might really be interested in after this. If you exceed the maximum Vr (reverse voltage) on an LED it also burns it out. I'm mentioning this because some LEDs have maximum Vr values that are below 12V (and always treat the car as a 15V source, not 12V).

SUCCESS!!! turning them around did the trick!

afremont, thanks for the information. i hope i didn't do any damage to them. i looked on Radio shack's site and they didn't mention any Vr values, only Fw current and supply.

They're fine if they light up.

that's a relief.

Thinking about it, i should have used a yellow LED for the fog light on indicator. The white LEDs are so bright it washes out the color of the indicator lens cover. The white LEDs work good to light up the on and off buttons, though.