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I'm in the process of starting my car up for the first time, i have everything connecter, when i go to accessory ON i get not fuel pump prime, the engine will crank but will not turn over. I replaced the relay thinking it may have been bad because it would not switch out of its normally closed position.
I read a couple other posts and guys were talking about a ground wire under the ECM, i don't see any ground additional ground wire lead that comes off the ECM. Can someone take a pic of this wire or let me know where it goes? Does it mount to the ECM cover and then to the body inside the car?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, been working on resorting the whole car from the ground up for 5 years now and this is the first time i will hear it start and it is getting me pretty bummed out that i cant get this figured out after all the work I've put into this. Thanks!
86 IROC, original 5.0 TPI, engine swapped out to a 383, kept the tuned port, still running the 9th start and EGR, removed all AIR and smog system.
Have a custom burned piggy back PROM from Hawks that is currently installed, i have tried starting with and without the custom prom.
Right now the goal is to not get the car to turn over as the fuel system is still bone dry, no gas in the tank, i am in the process of cranking it to prime the engine and the torque converter as i forgot to fill the converter before installing the trans.
What before i go any further with filling up the car with gas and connecting the spark wires, i want to get the pump to at least make a noise as if it is priming.
Hook up a wire somewhere to get 12V and ground into the car. Put the 12V in the lower left (terminal G) cavity of the ALDL and the ground in the upper right (terminal A). If the pump doesn't run, you have a problem with either the wiring, relay, or the pump.
This DOES NOT work on later cars as the ALDL wiring was changed.
Or you just find the fuel pump relay and jump the orange wire to the gray/tan wire...
Thanks guys, i've checked the inline fuse near the battery, its still good. I will attempt to check the voltage tomorrow and attempt to jump the relay. Does anybody have any input on the ECM ground cable that i've read is supposed to me under the passenger dash area? Thanks.
The ecm ground is on the back of the passenger cylinder head. There may or may not be a
prime lead on the relay. If your aldl has a wire in G this is also a prime spot.
Thanks for the help guys, after taking the entire interior out so i could track down all the wires ans chipping the new paint on the side of the car, i realized that the 2 fuse able power links from the battery and the fan relay were switched. Swapped the wires and the pump turned right on. Thanks again guys for the help.
Also check the Fuel Pump fuse which is a single fuse by the battery. It powers the fuel pump and the ECM.
I want to thank you emphatically for that tasty bit of info! I was wracking my brains trying to figure out why my fuel pump stopped working after replacing my OP sensor and fuel pump relay (went through the Gambit of fuses on my 89 bird and thought my pump had bit the dust) swapped out that little bugger and boom, fired right up! This car is is still taking me to school lol. Thank you again!
Thanks for the help guys, after taking the entire interior out so i could track down all the wires ans chipping the new paint on the side of the car, i realized that the 2 fuse able power links from the battery and the fan relay were switched. Swapped the wires and the pump turned right on. Thanks again guys for the help.
Do you have any pictures of this, I'm having same issue and can't locate the disable links that you're talking about.
Do you have any pictures of this, I'm having same issue and can't locate the disable links that you're talking about.
Have you taken your engine apart, and possibly hooked up the Fusible links wrong? If you haven't removed, and then replaced the wiring from the starter, it's not at all likely your fusible links are connected wrong, which was the OP's problem. Get a 12V automotive test light and begin checking for power at the appropriate places in the fuel pump circuit.....
Have you taken your engine apart, and possibly hooked up the Fusible links wrong? If you haven't removed, and then replaced the wiring from the starter, it's not at all likely your fusible links are connected wrong, which was the OP's problem. Get a 12V automotive test light and begin checking for power at the appropriate places in the fuel pump circuit.....
THe engine has never been taking apart, the car sat for over 12 years without being started, we checked the relay and they are good, the engine cranks but doesn't stay on unless I spray carb cleaner into the intake, could it be possible that the fuel pump went bad or seized up from not being used for that long? Thank you for all the help.
THe engine has never been taking apart, the car sat for over 12 years without being started, we checked the relay and they are good, the engine cranks but doesn't stay on unless I spray carb cleaner into the intake, could it be possible that the fuel pump went bad or seized up from not being used for that long? Thank you for all the help.
Hi Vmatzum, now we're gettin somewhere
Oh Hell dude, after 12 years the fuel has turned back into the dinosaurs from which it was distilled, and you've got quite the job ahead of you. In the left sitting WAYYYY too long scenario, you'll be needing at least the pump to be replaced, and likely the fuel tank too, along with flushing the fuel lines (or replacing them if they are too clogged to flush), and new fuel injectors along with a new fuel pressure regulator. Those are all the places where the old fuel solidifies, and if the tank itself is either rusty or too mucked up with solidified fuel that can't be cleaned, that's why I included it in my hit list.
I won't kid ya, it's a LOT of work, and were it mine I'd start at the fuel tank, and work my way forward (the fuel tank removal will be the single biggest part of the job)
01-28-2013, 08:50 PM
