Okay after much searching and trying different posts I still have yet to find the root cause as to why my trunk wont close.

Replaced:

Fuse
Verified power at trunk
Replaced Relay
Replaced trunk pull down motor
Trunk release button works (no motor just the striker releases at trunk)

No matter what I cannot get the motor to pull, for a brief moment after replacing the relay and motor it did make a noise for about 1 second then quit.

Any ideas after 100 bucks in parts so far no results

Also is there a way to just convert the trunk to a normal latch close system without the electronic pull down? As it gets expensive to keep guessing on parts.

 

dude im on that same boat did everything u did I just bought a reversing switch 20 min ago online hopeing that was the cause but my trunk does lock just wont move to pull it down I think I hear it moving but just not sure ill update as soon as it comes in the mail.

 

Appreciate it. I wish there was a better way to diagnose this dumb thing out. I checked the reversing part wow almost a much as the motor and refurb too and a core charge.

 

I had this EXACT same issue just this past week. I posted tips on it as well here. Did you make sure the release hatch was all the way UP (meaning it is in the open position), then mount the new motor to it. I has it in the closed position and got the same reaction, some movement down, then nothing. By putting the release hatch in the open position, then mount the new motor, it should work and will adjust accordingly from there on in. Works perfectly for me now. Hope this helps, let us know.

 

Anybody know how to wire this stupid thing up?

 

Blue wire with a large withe connector (86-87) plugs into red/white stripe wire.

Blue wire with a small black connector (88-91) plugs into red/white stripe wire.

In both cases that red/white stripe wire is +12v constant and provides the power to the pull-down unit.

Black wire with serrated ring terminal connects to body ground below pull-down.

White 4-wire connector plugs into the reversing switch.

White wire with small black connector is there on all years 86-91, but was only plugged into a orange with black stripe wire on late 89-91. It was used to turn on/off the hatch light. Prior years had the manual switch instead.

Hatch pull-down relay plugs into the socket on the wiring.

The entire wiring for the pull-down unit is insluded with the striker-sensing switch. The switch attaches to the latch with a small hex-head screw.

Similar topic, but I'll cover it here. There is a black wire with a square black connector that plugs into the end of the optional hatch release solenoid. It is the power wire! There is another critical black wire that has a large serrated ring terminal on one end and a smaller serrated ring terminal on the end. The large end connects to the 10mm screw attaching the hatch release solenoid to the latch. The other end connects to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. If this wire is missing the hatch release will not work since the solenoid is electrically isolated from ground by the guides in the track.

Lon

 

Did you get this fixed??

 

ok well I got the reverse switch in the mail today im gonna put it in on Saturday (my day off) also got new nylon plastic guides coming soon ill post back when I install it also I read it could also be the gear that could be stript but I found this site out a few weeks ago just wish I knew about it WAY earlier

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ind...te=common/home