Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

battery won't charge?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 14, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
ealyboy2013's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Brownsville OR
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: carb. chevy 350
Transmission: 5spd
battery won't charge?

Hey guys so I was driving home from school the other day and I noticed my volts were pretty low (about 11), I made it home just fine but I can't figure out why my volts aren't somewhere around 14 like they should be. I took the battery and alternator over to napa and had them test it and they said it was good but it still won't pump out any more power, actually the volts have dropped about 1 (down to 10) since I've hooked it back and up ran it a little. The wires look good, and the connections are tight and clean... what else could it be?
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2013 | 06:05 AM
  #2  
Lakerman62's Avatar
Member
10 Year Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 328
Likes: 7
From: Gresham Oregon
Car: 1985 Z28 & 1997 Z28 SS SLP
Engine: Sbc 305 TPI & LT1
Transmission: 700r4 and A4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt Posi 323 & Posi 323
Re: battery won't charge?

Sounds Like The Alternator Or There Is Something Draining Power After U Park Car. Any InteriorLights Or Manual Fan Switches Left On. Good luck
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #3  
ealyboy2013's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Brownsville OR
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: carb. chevy 350
Transmission: 5spd
Re: battery won't charge?

battery wasn't being drained, I think it was a slipping belt, is it possible for the belt to slip but not squeal? the alternator is slightly out of alignment and I'm working on getting it back in line with the other pulleys, the interior voltmeter reads almost 14v now which is pretty normal for the car. My multi meter reads 14.4ish at the alternator which is what it's supposed to be reading. So everything else points to a slipping belt, but that goes to my first question, can it slip without making a sound?
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #4  
Jonesyfxr's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 345
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 85 Silver Iroc, 79 Camaro
Engine: LB9, 500+ ci BBC
Transmission: 700R4, th400 with brake
Axle/Gears: 3.42, hand made 40 spline 9"
Re: battery won't charge?

Bad ground or loose starter terminals.
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #5  
jwfirebird's Avatar
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 1
From: Western NY State
Car: 87 bird
Engine: enough to break stuff
Transmission: manual th400
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: battery won't charge?

Originally Posted by ealyboy2013
battery wasn't being drained, I think it was a slipping belt, is it possible for the belt to slip but not squeal? the alternator is slightly out of alignment and I'm working on getting it back in line with the other pulleys, the interior voltmeter reads almost 14v now which is pretty normal for the car. My multi meter reads 14.4ish at the alternator which is what it's supposed to be reading. So everything else points to a slipping belt, but that goes to my first question, can it slip without making a sound?
sure
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #6  
rusty vango's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: battery won't charge?

Originally Posted by ealyboy2013
Hey guys so I was driving home from school the other day and I noticed my volts were pretty low (about 11), I made it home just fine but I can't figure out why my volts aren't somewhere around 14 like they should be. I took the battery and alternator over to napa and had them test it and they said it was good but it still won't pump out any more power, actually the volts have dropped about 1 (down to 10) since I've hooked it back and up ran it a little. The wires look good, and the connections are tight and clean... what else could it be?
if you are trusting the gauge to be accurate, you can stop now.they are notorious for going wonky however you can have it rebuilt
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #7  
NINÅ's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Slip N’ Dip

10-4 on the above gage info by Rusty.


Originally Posted by ealyboy2013
is it possible for the belt to slip but not squeal?
If it was slipping THAT much is would be glazed or smoking, and the loosest belt on the engine.

Check the Alt wires.

The heavier
red wire goes from a Fusible Link, to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.

The
thinner red wire goes from a different Fusible Link, to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.

The
brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) from the FAN fuse, and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.


Happy Racing!



Even Tho I Might Destroy The Car During The Race, At Least It Looks Gorgeous At The Start

Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
camarohelp
Tech / General Engine
14
Sep 22, 2015 03:19 PM
Johnoooooo
Tech / General Engine
7
Sep 22, 2015 08:55 AM
sahlomonic
Electronics
7
Sep 20, 2015 07:15 PM
gta892000
Cooling
6
Sep 16, 2015 12:37 AM
Formula_88AE
Engine Swap
1
Sep 3, 2015 01:47 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:43 PM.