Had a problem with my blower only working intermittenly on all speeds and modes now i does not work at all and this is now with a new blower and high speed relay though i have not replaced the resistor.
Test I have conducted at high speed relay:
With relay in place
*Red wire (HOT ALL TIMES) to Orange
-test light shows voltage
-Voltmeter reads 12.05 volts (battery is a little weak)
*Jumper between Red and Purple
-Voltage shows on test light but immediately the relay buzzes on contact
instead of clicking
-No Blower movement
*Purple without jumper
-No Voltage shows on test light
the only thing not replaced was the blower switch and resistor
Test I have conducted at high speed relay:
With relay in place
*Red wire (HOT ALL TIMES) to Orange
-test light shows voltage
-Voltmeter reads 12.05 volts (battery is a little weak)
*Jumper between Red and Purple
-Voltage shows on test light but immediately the relay buzzes on contact
instead of clicking
-No Blower movement
*Purple without jumper
-No Voltage shows on test light
the only thing not replaced was the blower switch and resistor
Quote:
-Voltage shows on test light but immediately the relay buzzes on contact
Something is wrong.Originally Posted by Project86B4Z
*Jumper between Red and Purple-Voltage shows on test light but immediately the relay buzzes on contact
Red to purple bypasses the relay completely and puts 12V straight to the blower which should run
The relay should do nothing because it has no power on the control side ( the org wire )
Red (12V ) to the orange wire should make the relay operate
See
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/63-0.jpg
Quote:
Test the switch operation by testing for power on the 4 wires shown out of the switch .Originally Posted by Project86B4Z
the only thing not replaced was the blower switch and resistor The org wire at the relay in Hi position and the 3 other wires into the resistor pack at lower speeds (After checking you have power to the switch ? )
Then check the purple out of the resistor pack or at the relay for power in each of the 3 low speed positions.
Quote:
The org wire at the relay in Hi position and the 3 other wires into the resistor pack at lower speeds (After checking you have power to the switch ? )
Then check the purple out of the resistor pack or at the relay for power in each of the 3 low speed positions.
this morning i pulled the "head unit" out the dash and unplugged the blower switch Originally Posted by vetteoz
Test the switch operation by testing for power on the 4 wires shown out of the switch .The org wire at the relay in Hi position and the 3 other wires into the resistor pack at lower speeds (After checking you have power to the switch ? )
Then check the purple out of the resistor pack or at the relay for power in each of the 3 low speed positions.
- brown/ white wire with ignition on there is voltage to Test light
- yellow none
- orange none
- tan none
- light blue none
So then i connected the switch and tested the yellow terminal which is bright on low and dim on high. Just as I was to test the orange terminal i accidentally jumped the orange and yellow terminal on the switch which magically turned the blower on and back to its normal function. So i rode it for 20 minutes and pulled in the driveway and once again im back to a dead blower with no fuses blown. So does that mean its the switch?
Quote:
Which is exactly the same as getting power on the org wire in Hi to the operate the blower relay Shows the relay is working and the blower has power from the batt for the Hi speed functionOriginally Posted by Project86B4Z
i accidentally jumped the orange and yellow terminal on the switch which magically turned the blower on Quote:
- orange none
- tan none
- light blue none
So does that mean its the switch?
Did you check for power on each of those wires with the switch in the right position for each one ?Originally Posted by Project86B4Z
- yellow none- orange none
- tan none
- light blue none
So does that mean its the switch?
Obviously there will be no power if they are disconnected from the switch or the switch is not set correctly ; Hi for the org , Lo for the yellow , etc
I got a new switch but still nothing with it connected and when using a test light
yellow is bright on low and dim on high with relay buzz
orange brightens from to low to high
blue brightens from low to medium then dims on high with relay buzz
tan also brightens from low to medium and dims on high with relay buzz
brown -white wire shows constant at all speeds
yellow is bright on low and dim on high with relay buzz
orange brightens from to low to high
blue brightens from low to medium then dims on high with relay buzz
tan also brightens from low to medium and dims on high with relay buzz
brown -white wire shows constant at all speeds
Supreme Member
Quote:
That’s fine but the important place to put the test light is on the purple wire at the resistor pack, with a long enuff lead so you can see it in the cockpit.Originally Posted by Project86
new switch but still nothing with it connected and when using a test light yellow is bright on low and dim on high with relay buzz……..orange……….blue………tan……….brown……….blah-blah Now when you turn the selector switch thru its’ positions you will see (if the blower is connected) the light get progressively brighter from LO thru Medium-2.
The brightness on HI is irrelevant because it’s merely back-feed.
Quote:
Using your VOLTMETER what is the voltage across the green wire and the black wirewhen it’s buzzing?Originally Posted by Project86
Voltage shows on test light but immediately the relay buzzes on contact instead of clicking ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
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I Didn’t Wreck, The Track Moved
Quote:
just left class finished for the semester and its done storming out so now getting back to this blower situation, i did the blower connection test with the test light and it does brighten from low to medium like you said it should. Now as far as the green and black wire (that is if you are talking about the black with a green stripe that goes to the blower ground) it reads 13.28 volts with the engine on and head unit switched on) but again still no movement or current draw from the blowerOriginally Posted by NINÅ
That’s fine but the important place to put the test light is on the purple wire at the resistor pack, with a long enuff lead so you can see it in the cockpit.
Now when you turn the selector switch thru its’ positions you will see (if the blower is connected) the light get progressively brighter from LO thru Medium-2.
The brightness on HI is irrelevant because it’s merely back-feed.
Using your VOLTMETER what is the voltage across the green wire and the black wirewhen it’s buzzing?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Didn’t Wreck, The Track Moved
Now when you turn the selector switch thru its’ positions you will see (if the blower is connected) the light get progressively brighter from LO thru Medium-2.
The brightness on HI is irrelevant because it’s merely back-feed.
Using your VOLTMETER what is the voltage across the green wire and the black wirewhen it’s buzzing?
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Didn’t Wreck, The Track Moved
Supreme Member
Now put one of the voltmeter probes on the orange wire at the relay, and the other probe on ground.
When you have the Blower Speed Selector on the HI position what is the voltage?
Also, does the relay buzz when you do this?
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Happy Racing!
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First One To Spin Me Next Season •.•.•.•.•.•.•.• Well I Might Just Mirror Drive ‘em The Whole Race
When you have the Blower Speed Selector on the HI position what is the voltage?
Also, does the relay buzz when you do this?
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Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
First One To Spin Me Next Season •.•.•.•.•.•.•.• Well I Might Just Mirror Drive ‘em The Whole Race
