I know there is a bunch of posts on this but I found a module for 18 bucks on ebay and wondering if anyone ever used it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271838071670?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have a number 6 key. I don't want to hack my wiring with diodes would rather it be plug n play. The add says its for 4th gen birds and Camaros but I am thinking this will work anyway. Thoughts please?? thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure you have to tap into a power, ground and signal wires to use a module anyway. The advantage is that the modules sometimes come with a nice little plug so you can have a nice clean little pigtail with a plug on the spiced portion attached to the car and a corresponding plug on the module. This allows you to easily unplug it and go back to the factory VATS if you so wish. Since you have to tap/splice into wires to use the module anyway...why not just splice in one $3.00 resistor instead. The resistor bypass is actually probably less invasive on your factory wiring than the module if you ask me. And it's so much easier to get to. Just snip one wire under the steering column and solder in a resistor and you are done.

 

I made up the resister pack from Radio shack but I hate cutting factory wires, its just messy. Plus a pain to work under the dash!!. I will figure something out. would be nice to get a male plug from GM so I could just do what the one above does but with the radio shack resistors. thanks

 

No hacking necessary.
I had a defective VATS Modal that was still triggering intermitantly and would no longer respond to resister based atemps to stop it .This is what I ended up doing and what I should have done in the beginning. It is IMO the "best" way to remove VATS.
You can even add a few nice things while your doing it.

Take a look at this link = "VATS is Gone" =


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-tuned.html

 

Thanks for the link. I ended up ordering the item above. Waiting for it to come in. I will report on how it works.

 

Well the good news is this little guy worked! BUT... after she runs a bit, she wont start again. I have to let it sit. I think the starter or at least the solenoid has issues with heat. Also unrelated the check engine light is now on. I will check that as well.

But if you want to disable VATS, this little tool does it and no wire cutting. He has them on ebay in different key codes. States it only works on 93 and above Firebirds and Camaros but it works on my 1989!

 

Does the starter crank or is it dead with out even a click ?
If its dead with out a click ,try this next time it wont start. Turn the key off and wait 5 minutes.The hole 5 minutes because that is how long VATS will lock you out between failed attempts at sending the right signal.
If it starts on the first try after the "full" 5 minutes that is still an indication of VATS.


Also if it does not crank at all you can jump the Starter enable relay connecter in the kick panel as described it the thread I posted.
Once you have done that and the car cranks but no start it is VATS locking you out. By jumping the relay connecter you are removing half of VATS ability to cause a no start.

 

Ron, thanks. When I start the car without the new VATS module above. If I shut it down immediately, it wont start. There is a clicking noise. If I wait a bit it would start. once I put the module above in I started it, shut it off, then started again 2 times.

So I let it run and warm up, now I cant start it with the module in, just a clicking noise. Wait, then let try and start again, cranks but did not start. Try again clicking noise.

Maybe its is still VATS and the module is not as good as I hoped. I may just get a new updated chip with VATS disabled at this point.

Thanks for the info!