The 20amp fuse that powers the dome light, clock radio, etc.. is causing a parasitic draw and running down my battery. This happens even if the dome light is not on. This is a very important fuse and its causing me a lot of trouble, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this.

 

unplug your dome light a see if its there if so start unplugging all things on that circuit 1 at a time

 

Thanks for the reply, the bulb is removed from my dome light right now. It was out for about 4-5 hours and when I tried starting the car she started no problem. I'm not sure if that would be enough time for the battery to run down or not. It's late at night right now and I'm going to try starting her again tomorrow. I should add that my battery is brand new, just bought last week and it has been tested and is working fine.
If it is the fault of the dome light, what could be causing it to draw power?

 

Probably not the dome light... it's either on, or it's off. If it's off, it's not drawing any current.

More likely, has something to do with an aftermarket radio (amplifier maybe?) or alarm or remote starter.

 

Whatever does not work while the 20 amp fuse is unplugged are things to suspect. If you have a meter, you can unplug each accessory while checking the current draw at the battery. What I have done is to use long leads so I can place the meter up to the windshield and then take a quick peek while unplugging things inside of the car.
As mentioned with cars from this era, it's typically an after-market component.

This might help.

 

ive personally see where some older cars have a solder connection at the dome light and over time the solder melts a little from the heat from the light and being up near the roof on a hot days and make constant contact which causes a draw even when in off position ive had to replace the dome light assy with a new one to fix it so if thats it you can take apart the old assy and see whats happend inside

 

Parasitic draw is so easy, quick and cheap for diagnosing the exact component it's almost a waste of time to come on here and talk about what it might be caused by. Watch the video posted if you don't know the test process. If you don't have a digital multimeter you can buy one for $5-10. Almost always it's incorrect wiring or improperly installed aftermarket component. With the key off you should have almost no voltage being used.

 

I don't have any aftermarket parts installed. So far, since removing the bulb the car has been starting without issue. I'm going let it sit for a couple of days and see what happens. I also took a look up into the dome and the plastic around one of the bulbs contacts has burn marks on the plastic. It seems to have melted through the plastic and snapped it in half and the metal contact is loose. When the bulb was removed it had become incredibly hot even though it had only been on for a few seconds.

 

good sounds like you maybe on the right track and a new dome light assy should be in order anyways