Shadez301

Hello, I have an 83 Camaro Sport Coupe that I am finishing up a 91 Tuned Port injection swap on. I thought I finally had everything wired up correctly but I had one more gremlin pop up and I am blanking on what could be causing it.

With the door open and key on, the Chime box Buzzes as it should, however, when I pull the switch and turn the headlights on, the Buzzer cuts out and the intervals for both the turn signal lights and noise for the turn signals become noticeably slower.

The car has had all the wiring swapped from the 91 tuned port doner however I used the original dash so the Cluster has already been re-pinned and there don't seem to be any issues there. This is the second time I've ripped it apart to do the wiring as I had a previous problem before with the Gas gauge not reading correctly (not the gauge already checked the wires, sender and gauge) and now that I believe that's fixed, I'm trying to get everything else back to factory spec for the 91 so I can make sure that that problem or any new ones don't pop up. I also am the exception and like the annoying chime because it actually has on several occasions prevented me from leaving the headlights on and killing the battery.

This car is going be be my daily driver and like I said I want to make sure everything wiring wise is factory spec again so I don't run into and problems in the future so if anyone knows why the buzzer might be cutting out you would be a life saver!

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Check see if your existing chime has 6 or 7 pins,..... Here's some info on the chimes:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...e-digital.html

Shadez301

Thanks for the reply. It has 7 pins (Tall black box unit from a 91). I have the wiring diagram for the 92 units which I believe were identical and I just can't figure out why pulling the headlight switch would cause it to cut out, it works fine under all other instances.

Shadez301

Ok found the solution, which Ill cover in case anyone else has a similar problem in the future:

The ground wire running to the light on the console for the gear shift numbers was incorrectly hooked up. It was switched with the ground wire for the driver seat beat wire, i. e. the black seat belt sender wire. With the lights off everything was grounded properly, when when the lights were turned on though,12v-10v power continued through that light socket(causing it to not turn on either) and sending 12v power though that wire and into the chime box. Both wires are solid black, with no stripes and are the exact same diameter so its not that surprising of an issue if your splicing two harness together that this could be the culprit.