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I have this broken wire on the firewall, my guess is it would be a ground wire, is it factory ? Not having any issues that would be caused by a bad ground...
Any ideas ?
That's the only ground for all the body related items. The engine, trans and exhaust are all isolated from the body.
Would you think I'd be having electrical issues without that ground connected ? I can only assume someone in the past has maybe attached one somewhere else to replace it ?
Might not cause any problems. It's not the only ground, but it's a real good idea to have it. Get a new one and move forward...
Just wanted to know for the sake of knowledge.
Does it have to be the exact same type of braided wire or can I just pick a reasonable gauge piece of cable and use it ?
If you haven't already replaced it, then, yes, for that engine-to-chassis ground strap, you can replace it with another strap or a cable, either one, whichever you prefer to use. Straps are more flexible and less invasive for a tight space, but I like the insulation around a cable, personally. But whichever, it will be better to use heavier gauge than that wimpy OE strap, a gauge that equals or is close to the main negative battery-to-block cable. That's what, 4 gauge, if your cables are OE? Straps are available in heavy gauges and so are cables.
Upgrading that ground strap is the 3rd piece of the "Big 3 Upgrade." The other two pieces are heavier gauges for the positive battery-to-alternator cable and the negative battery-to-chassis cable, both of which are pretty wimpy, especially the stock battery-to-chassis cable. But even if you don't do all of that, then, at least, while you're replacing it now, upgrade that wimpy ground strap.
And for a "Big 4 Upgrade," add a ground cable attached to the rear of the alternator case(or to one of its mounting bolts), and connect it directly to the negative battery terminal. Use the same gauge as the positive battery-to-alternator cable(which, itself, is wimpy and should be upgraded, too).
If you haven't already replaced it, then, yes, for that engine-to-chassis ground strap, you can replace it with another strap or a cable, either one, whichever you prefer to use. Straps are more flexible and less invasive for a tight space, but I like the insulation around a cable, personally. But whichever, it will be better to use heavier gauge than that wimpy OE strap, a gauge that equals or is close to the main negative battery-to-block cable. That's what, 4 gauge, if your cables are OE? Straps are available in heavy gauges and so are cables.
Upgrading that ground strap is the 3rd piece of the "Big 3 Upgrade." The other two pieces are heavier gauges for the positive battery-to-alternator cable and the negative battery-to-chassis cable, both of which are pretty wimpy, especially the stock battery-to-chassis cable. But even if you don't do all of that, then, at least, while you're replacing it now, upgrade that wimpy ground strap.
And for a "Big 4 Upgrade," add a ground cable attached to the rear of the alternator case(or to one of its mounting bolts), and connect it directly to the negative battery terminal. Use the same gauge as the positive battery-to-alternator cable(which, itself, is wimpy and should be upgraded, too).
Thanks for the advice! Yes 4 gauge is what I was thinking for it.
