Whenever I try and use my power windows the fuse ends up blowing, I can't find a spot that it's crossing and it seems to only do it on certain clicks of the switch. No matter where I look and what I try it keeps happening.

 

Year and model of car?

 

I am uncertain of what exactly is being discussed...
But I recall Third-Gens having the Power-Windows being powered through a 35A Circuit-Breaker.
Also the Electric Lift-Motors for the Window-Regulators, have their own internal Circuit-Breaker to further protect the Motor (especially when hot).

What type of Circuit-Testing has been done thus far?

 

to be honest all I have done is see what has power and so far it all has power. To explain more clearly there's a power wire coming from the switch that plugs Into power at a 30 amp fuse, this wire also has a 25 amp fuse going into it. The 25 amp fuse in the wire keeps blowing. The motors are fine and I've gotten both to move on a one time event but with the same setup I couldn't repeat it.

 

Did you have a fuse where the circuit breaker is suppose to be? As vortec said, should be a circuit breaker there not a fuse, and certainly no inline fuse either.

 

I do not know what year your F-Body is (hopefully its a 3rd-Gen... actually, I hope its an F-Body)...
But here is what the Power-Window Circuit looks like:



Just as 84_1LE said: There were no Fuses used in the Stock Circuit.

Please let us know some details to better be of some help to you.

 

I feel like we are getting caught up on the inline fuse and that's not the problem. I guess I should tell you it is a 89 camaro iroc with a aftermarket wiring harness because I couldn't find a factory one. It gets power because the inline fuse blew but the circuit breaker presumably isn't. When I put the car on accessory and press the button nothing happens and the inline fuse blows. If I remember anything else I'll add it but so far I think that's it

 

Ah, but that's where your mistaken Soupyman, the inline fuse IS "the problem" , and that problem (actually "problems") are that it's rated 10 amps too little, and that it's a fuse instead of a circuit breaker.


Put the circuit back to it's factory configuration, namely, being fed from a 35 amp breaker, with NO fuses of any size in the circuit, before you go chasing your tail over why an improper device, improperly rated, will not perform like the factory built circuit did.......

 

so if cut out the inline fuse the windows should work then right? Because that's what it sounds like your getting at

 

I couldn't have made it more clear.......................................

 

thank you I appreciate the help. The circuit breaker is there still and this is a universal kit that said it'd work on my car so it wasn't exactly what I needed but It was the best I could get