The car was originally an LG4 car with electric fan but being an ‘86 model didn’t have the electric fuel pump yet. It is now a fuel injected 383 with aftermarket Flexalite electric fan and of course an electric fuel pump. I think the fan is Flexalite’s highest CFM 16” option so it draws some power. Since installing the fan I’ve killed 3 12SI alternators in short order, all started charging at very low voltages which I think indicates an overheated voltage regulator. The last one was a brand new DelcoRemy 94A alt. I’ve looked into the beefier 12SI versions from TuffStuff and Powermaster but don’t know about their reliability. I wonder about the reliability of the 12SI at higher RPM’s (6500 in my case), and if even the aftermarket units can keep up at idle. I’m using the factory crank pulley btw. I also still have the weirdo hybrid sorta serpentine belt and v-belt setup with no plans to upgrade as only my power steering runs off the v-belt and I’ve had no problems from it. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. That puts my alternator on the passenger side head, I’m using ICT’s aluminum bracket with a turnbuckle tensioner. Lastly the car has no HVAC (basically my race car) or stereo, but has power windows, and stock lighting other than Screaming Chickens halogen headlight upgrade. I’m really surprised that the 94A can’t keep up. All these things said, what are my options for a power upgrade? The CS144 has 2 versions but I haven’t been able to find much differentiating information other than amperage (120A vs 140A). I know the version on my LT1 Camaro is huge and will not work with my valve covers. Is the earlier version CS144 smaller (shorter)? Is the early version as efficient at low RPM as the later versions? The AD244 I don’t think is a viable option due to the mounting ears location. The CS130 is a no-go because it’s not durable enough with RPM. Will the higher amperage 12SI’s work with high RPM durability and low RPM efficiency? I’ve seen a few guys do this upgrade but all are doing so with a stock serpentine setup. Any help is appreciated.

 

The CS-144 kicks a$$. But it is definitely larger.
I assume that you no longer are using the air pump?
Do you think that you might have the room to fit a different alternator halfway between where it originally mounts and where the air pump was?
I never could stand the alternator sticking up so high on the passenger side.
So I made my own brackets to do what I just described.
I am not talking about doing the "flip" where the top side rotates down to the bottom, making the new top hanging from that 6" long bolt.
I can add pics later.

We have the same hybrid pulley setup. If you don't have AC, then you should be able to easily add a 2nd power steering belt - no slippage.

 

ji think a cs 144 will work good - there are 2 versions: 1986.5 to 1995 108 and 120amps and the 1990-2001 140 amp version.the earlier design is same size and mounting as the 15 and 17 SI found on certain '82-86 thirdgens.,the later design is basicly similar but the castings are bulkier. The big benefit of the cs 144 is the updated and more powerful regulator for better low speed output. Some ford 3G alternators can also be used as an upgrade. CS130 alternators are crap.

 

So then looking at these 2 diagrams I found the dimensions that matter most to me seems to be near enough a match to be a non issue. That’s fantastic news if what I’m seeing here is correct.

 

Ive never tried the mid mount setups but I think I’ve got fuel lines running through that area. Honestly that high mount doesn’t bother me since it’s out of the way, easy to work around and my engine bay is more functional than pretty (but impresses most people when they’re peeking under my hood).The air pump and AC compressor are both gone. The multi rib belt only runs the alternator and water pump while the lone v-belt spins my Type ll power steering pump. That little thing’s a BA. Makes too much pressure even with a restrictor.

 

with no A/C,that radiator fan is the only item that pulls significant current-probably about 20-25 amps if it is a powerful one.A ~60 amp alternator should be more than enough-you may just have gotten a string of bad alternators...CS 144 is still a nice upgrade-if you don't mind salvage parts,check cadillacs,buicks,etc.for a cs 144.

 

Based on the GM Alternator Models that are abundantly available today...

There is NO reason to use the CS Models for an Alternator-Upgrade anymore.


Go with the most up-to-date Models that we can use...
-The 44-Series (Large Body) would be the ACDelco AD244.
-The 30-Series (Small Body) would be the ACDelco AD230.

These Two Alternator Models can be built/ assembled for Outputs ranging: 100A - 400A.

The Image below shows the ACDelco AD244 Alternator:



NOT to be confused with the NEWER Model: "DR44".

We can NOT use the NEWER Model: "DR44" because it uses a PWM Voltage-Regulator that must be operated by a dedicated Electronic Control Module and Vehicle/ Battery Current-Sensing Charging System.

Both the AD244 and AD230 use the same Electrical Connector, that can be configured from a One-Wire to a Four-Wire arrangement.
Electrical Connector shown in Image below:

 

So 2 decades ago, my friend and I each get high-output aftermarket alternators.
He has a Mustang and receives a beefed-up Chevy alternator.
My beefed-up alternator is actually a Ford. Go figure.

So here are those pics (old, crappy camera) with my mid-mount brackets and that Ford alternator.
The engine is a 267 SBC and the cylinder heads do not have accessory holes, which is the reason for the aluminum bracket at the rear.

 

The biggest hurdle to using the AD230/44 is that the mounting ears look to be about 90* off one another. Because of the type of bracket and tensioner I’m using that might not be viable without fabricating a bracket that wraps around the alternator to put it closer to 180*. The CS144 case is already cast at 180* which is why it looks like the W here. I don’t need a ton of alternator to run this car as you said probably 70-80A at idle with lights and fan on. I did forget to mention I have a CDI box and divorced coil so that sucks a little more juice than a plain HEI. I just need something that can provide it at idle without having to spin it up with a small pulley and risk over speeding it at redline. I’m not afraid of the fabrication part of this but therein lies the second half of my issue where I’m doing this remotely with a friend of mine taking care of my cars while I’m away from home deployed on the southern border. He can work on cars but he is no fabricator and I’m not even certain how well I trust him to do any wiring modifications either. This is the 2nd alternator to fail in the 9mos I’ve been gone. I think he’s going to return the parts store one that failed first and limp this thing along until I get home in November but it doesn’t get driven much. Any more info on this fellas?

 

There are Case variations, as well as a nice small Adapter for "Wide-Mount CS" to "Standard AD" Swaps.

 

I did the AD244 swap a few years ago and it was a fantastic upgrade.

 

So many of the Cars that I build for My Customers (especially 3rd-Gens) need a Heavy-Duty AD244 or AD230 Alternator...

The Image below shows an AD244 that I often use (with the Mounting arrangement for some of the wide-mount CS144 Units) with a Billet Case and available from 180A to 400A:




The average 3rd-Gen that I build uses:
-Dual Electric Cooling Fans for the Engine Radiator.
-Two individual Fluid Coolers that use a mini Electric Fan each.
-Dual Electric Fuel Pumps.
-One or Two Electric Oil Scavenge Pumps.
-Nitrous Heaters.
-An Electric Pump for a Liquid Intercooler or a Refrigerant Intercooler.
-Some use an ATF Cooler Pump... for use in the Pits between Rounds at the Track.
-Electric Waste-Gates.
-Manual Transmission or Differential Electric Oil Cooler Pump.

Plus the normal Street Car stuff...
Exterior Lights, Power Windows, Electric door locks and accessories, HVAC, Radio, Electric exhaust Cut-Outs, Etc...

A 180A to 240A Alternator is going to be the Lower-Range option for what I normally install in One of these 3rd-Gen Builds.
I very often go with a AD244 that puts out 300A... sometimes even 350A.

 

Whats a good aftermarket (reliable) brand? Ive read powermaster is not that great (anymore). Im looking for more than the stock 105amp, but dont wanna to go into 200amp territory.
LS set-up if that matters.

 

I am definitely the wrong person to say what a good Aftermarket Brand is today.
I personally do not purchase any of the Aftermarket Alternator assemblies.
I have not heard anything terrible about Mechman.com ...but I do not have first hand experience.

I pretty much just purchase New ACDelco Alternators, modify them, and put Billet Cases on.

For 200A or less...
I would just open a new AD230 or AD244 and modify it.
For an Output that low... You ONLY need to reconfigure the Stator Assembly.
See Image of Stator below:



If you are not familiar with doing so...
It is very simple and straight forward with an endless amount of DIY Videos and Internet Articles.

 

Just get a delco AD244 from Rock Auto. 140 amp should be more than enough for most street cars. Powers mine just fine with EFI, electric fans, AC, pretty decent stereo, etc... and keeps up 14V even at idle.

 

Here’s how my setup is arranged for all those who have said they’re using the AD244. Maybe now you can see why it may not be a workable option… unless there is a different case design that spreads the mounting ears out a few more degrees or I get out some scrap and tools… once I’m home.

 

The Image that I have in Post #12 is a AD244 that uses a Case with the same Mounting as the CS144.
I even typed that in the Post... there are several options for mounting/ different cases available, as well as adapters and brackets that allow for mounting of different Cases.

Image shown again below:

 

Deleted.

 

The AD 244 looks pretty good. I was surprised to see its150amps, Thought it be a 105 amp unit. That's 4th gen I'm guessing since I got my accessory drive set up from an 02 model.
What about price? My local parts stores (both national) want well over $350. Found it online for $254, free shipping, 2 yr warranty. That's brand new for both, not reman. Does $254 sound good or still too high? Good advice here, thanks guys

 

Sounds fine to me (but I do not normally buy Parts at Retail Prices).
I am guessing that is an average Price, based on what My Cost is on one of those.

 

I used to have connections to buy auto parts at cost, but those days are long gone unfortunately.

 

I’ve found a couple of straight case AD230’s, one from Mechman, Powermaster and TuffStuff have one too. 165A units I believe which is way more than I’ll ever use. The Mechman they call a “race” unit so don’t know how well it’ll do under street use and it is a single wire too unfortunately. I think the PM and TS ones are retrofit single wires too. I’ll have to look at them again to make sure. Nothing in a straight mount configuration for the bigger 244. The early style CS144’s have a factory plug on them and seem like they may be short enough to fit. All about the same price in the $300-400 range.

 

For now I’ve decided to go with a Powermaster 150A 12SI unit. It’s supposed to produce 100A at idle and is a direct replacement for the stock alternator. I also have purchased a 2.9” pulley from MechMan to keep the shaft RPM under 18k at 6700 crankshaft RPM while still maintaining more than 2400 shaft RPM at a 950RPM idle. Hopefully this will work long term. I tried contacting Alternatorparts.com about their SI series replacement AD230 hybrid but they never returned my email to answer my questions. May be a good alternative although not necessarily a roadside replacement. There are options out there, they’re just kind of hard to find at times. Alternatorparts needs a massive improvement in both their website and customer service but from what I’ve seen they may have some of the best options out there if you can locate it.

 

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a feeling you know the answer I seek.

These brackets are for -3 spacing, have a DR37 alternator in this photo. I can't really use it since I don't have an engine management system with the PWM output.

I realized (this evening) that the ear spacing is slightly different from a typical L98 alternator (cs121?) and the ear doesn't have enough material to drill the hole bigger to make it work.

What 'older style' alternator uses the same case dimensions as the DR37 ? Is the AD244 the same case?

If using one of those AD244 alternators, does one need the 470 ohm resistor to keep the regulator from burning up?

Thanks!

-- Joe

 

Whoops.

 

If the Alternator that you have possesses a 2-Pin Voltage-Regulator...
It should be a "DR44'.

The 4-Pin Version would be the AD244 (Same Dimensions) and take Through-Bolts.

The AD230 is smaller like the CS130 but with Mounting Pads in the same locations as the AD244 and take Through-Bolts.
There are Variants of the AD230 with different Cases/ Mounting Locations (one of which is identical to the above with 2 Through-Bolts, except 1 hole is Threaded instead).

The CS130 is going to have Mounting Pads at 12 and 6 O'Clock instead of the Mounting on the above Models.

 

Welcome back my Friend, I hope all is well

 

Gettin' there. thank you!

 

My apologies...
Brain still no workie so good.

Yes, a 470K - 500K Ohm Resistor should be used.

Same for all 4-Pin Voltage Regulators, back to the CS130D/ CS130 and CS144.

Note Larger (higher Wattage 83 Ohm Resistors used to be used in parallel with a 194-Bulb (before LED Indicators in the IPC).

 

@anesthes

I have forgotten multiple times to Thank you for your LEO Service (I am assuming you are Retired).
I was a Reserve FEMA Officer for 14 Years officially/ 20 Years unofficially (6-Years of "Off the Books Assignments).
It was a Paid LEO Position, but it was similar to the US ARMY Reserve in terms of commitment Time.
My very first assignment was 9-11 Manhattan.....................
I literally thought I was in HELL!

Anyway I was Injured off of the Job... got a Year of my average Annual Pay to try and get Medically cleared...
But never happened, and had to resign (I was hit by a truck while riding my Bike on the expressway... fractured my Spine and a few other bones).
I resigned as an LT, but in all fairness, I should have gotten a bump to CPT... O well, I'm sure you know all about the Politics of the Job!

Sorry, I went off on a Tangent...
Again i'm struggling Mentally at the moment.

What I wanted to talk about was the Grounding in the Image you Posted.
Could you make sure that your Ground Cable on the Driver-Side contacts unpainted Block and some unpainted area of the Accessory-Drive Bracket...
Then connect directly to the Battery and nothing else.

Also do the same between the Alternator and Bracket, directly to the Battery.
This is where all the Electrical Power Comes from and should connect directly to the Battery (Not travel through the Block).

 

Hi,

So it's actually a DR37, which from google tells me is the smaller version of the DR44. So maybe I want to get an AD230 to fit these brackets ?







I see. So the only self regulating alternator that works without a resistor in a thirdgen fbody application is the stock CS121?

Thank you, and the same to you! I retired last year, as a Sgt.

I'm not familiar with FEMA's law enforcement division, but I've met a lot of guys over the years from a lot of different agencies with complex and often overlapping jurisdictions. It had it's ups and downs, but I wouldn't recommend someone get into law enforcement these days.

Sorry that you were injured on the job...

-- Joe

 

I'm sorry, I am not 100% Familiar with non-Delphi Era Alternators.

The DR44 is a Bosch Alternator.

I believe the DR37 is the low Amperage Version of the DR44, but still the large Case (144, 244 Etc).

I don't think it is the smaller Case like a 30 Series Alternator, but I could be wrong.

Back in 2009 GM (The Corporation) went bankrupt and stopped producing its Vehicle Parts from its own Subsidiaries.
Now GM (The Company) a new Business out sources all it's vehicle Parts from other Manufacturers:
-Bosch
-Denso
-Akebono
-Yazaki
-ZF
-Magna
-Etc...

Now GM stuff is 90% Foreign Parts and I don't know much about them.

 

I was hoping to see: ANYONE


That might be more familiar with these Newer alternators, but I guess not.
All I know on that topic is that the newest Units have moved from Bosch to Denso (Further and further away from REAL GM PARTS).


Side-Note: My Avatar Image of my Camaro...
Is supposed to appear as if it was just this: "Thin Blue Line" tearing across the Track, and at speed be a blur of a Blue Line flying past everything!

You guys can Ask @anesthes about the "Thin Blue Line"

Help Better Supporting US...
Helps US, Better Support Helping You!