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I'm reworking my already reworked engine wiring harness. It's fully functional and well enough loomed and harnessed but it's a little scattered. I've three stand alone fuses on the passenger side fender at the battery and a positive binding post. Those fuses join up with three other power circuits via the fusible links at the starter.
The objective is to duplicate what we did on another car and that's build a new distribution from one well located fuse block. I want to ditch the fusible links along the way. 6 circuits at a minimum need replacing.
The location is easy enough and it'll be by the battery. It's what's available that I'm researching. One thing I know for sure is that the entry level Harbour Freight style fuse block will catch fire. So I'd like to avoid that again. The marine grade panels are very durable by comparison although I haven't looked around lately.
Now I ask if anyone has used something that worked well for them.
Thanks in advance.
I'm reworking my already reworked engine wiring harness. It's fully functional and well enough loomed and harnessed but it's a little scattered. I've three stand alone fuses on the passenger side fender at the battery and a positive binding post. Those fuses join up with three other power circuits via the fusible links at the starter.
The objective is to duplicate what we did on another car and that's build a new distribution from one well located fuse block. I want to ditch the fusible links along the way. 6 circuits at a minimum need replacing.
The location is easy enough and it'll be by the battery. It's what's available that I'm researching. One thing I know for sure is that the entry level Harbour Freight style fuse block will catch fire. So I'd like to avoid that again. The marine grade panels are very durable by comparison although I haven't looked around lately.
Now I ask if anyone has used something that worked well for them.
Thanks in advance.
How many Circuits and what range of Ampacities for Fuses and Relays do you require?
-ATM Fuses and Relays up to 30A in a 12-Terminal Box, 24, 48, or 72-Terminal Versions.
-6 Maxi-Fuses up to 60A each.
-2 Maxi-Fuses up to 70A Each with 2 Relays up to 70A Each.
-Or 3 Relays up to 46A Each.
How many Circuits and what range of Ampacities for Fuses and Relays do you require?
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
I offer these Sealed PDMs...
They are Modular/ stackable.
Mr V!. Throw your bread upon the waters as they say.
Those PDMs got me to thinking about regrouping my entire power distribution and control.
The pictures below are of the current arrangement. Please excuse the dirt and dust. This is the first time the hood has been opened in a couple of years. Being outdoors (sadly) doesn't help much either.
In addition to these three fender mounted fused circuits...(one fuse holder is out of the picture)
...there are three fusible links (for 4 circuits in total).
There is also the "relay centre". Plus a MAP sensor and 5 volt power supply (This is a carbed engine with a conventional distributor and the MAP has been incorporated for data logging.)
Power is distributed to:
MSD ignition box: 20 A.
Fan(s): 30 A
Fuel pump: 20 A.
3 circuits to the C100 connector via the links which I believe are for: Cavity A4 (power at ignition switch), B4 (starter solenoid), and G4 (fuse block). 16 (2) and 20 (1) are the identifiers on the links. One circuit from the link cluster handles the heater blower. (3 links/4 circuits).
There are relays for : Fan(s) and fuel pump. There's also a relay for the heater but it's a stand alone (not shown).
So, this is all preliminary as I've mulled over centralizing everything right after I secured the last cable tie. That's going on the better part of 15 years!
That said, with the engine nearing completion (pending the last round of parts delivery) plus a long laundry list of must do items before the engine and transmission are reinstalled (steering box seal, transmission crossmember fitment, wash and paint touch ups, etc., etc.) I'm holding off on the rewire as I know everything functions as it should and I don't wish to introduce any variables when it comes to the engine's first fire up. But I always gather up all the bits required rather than diving in, disabling the car and then finding I need still even more bits to put it back together (if that makes sense). I may address the wiring loom in general and lay in additional wires for the potential upgrades and/or rework as it's easy to access with the engine bay empty.
The modules you've pictured: How do the backsides look? Or more specifically, cable entry and termination within?
Decisions still to be made include whether to relocate the relays (currently at the C100 location) to the fender where the fuses are and condense the whole affair or keep them where they are but upgrade the package with one of your modules (if nothing else it would certainly look better). That would be fusing at the fender and relays on the firewall. It certainly makes easier working of the wiring as it's all there.
The ATM Fuse and ISO Relay Versions use GM Metri-Pack 280 (With Tang) Terminals and Cable Seals (along with corresponding TPAs):
I would supply you with the needed TPAs, Terminals, and Cable Seals...
I could work with this.
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Or as I do for most People, just assemble the PDMs for you with a Harness.
As a wireman for more decades than I care to recount, I'd prefer to build any harness myself. But that's a personal preference and not a reflection on the results that you would provide.
I'll do a further assessment on what's needed and go from there.
They stack together just like in the Image below (You are looking at 4 separate Modules):
Oh! Now I see. I though that was just four of them close together. Now I see they are actually linked.
These are cool. Do you have a website or do we just order through PM here?
Oh! Now I see. I though that was just four of them close together. Now I see they are actually linked.
These are cool. Do you have a website or do we just order through PM here?
One thing I'd like to know is your method for wire identification. There are only so many colours after all!
I've both heat shrink labelling as well as self laminating. The heat shrink has better durability under the hood in my estimation.
In the Professional Motorsports and Mil-Spec Wiring World...
All the Wiring/ Harnesses have to be encapsulated in a protective Sleeving.
This makes Individual Wiring Repairs impossible.
So the Harness is always Built into Modular Sections... The Entire Section gets Replaced.
Anyway... We do not rely on Wire Insulation for Identification at all...
Everything is Identified by the Terminal Location in each Connector (It's called Pin Mapping) and you will see that most of the Wire I use is always White.
That's because I don't rely on the Wire Insulation to locate a Wire/ Circuit.
I can Use my Pin Map or My Multi-Meter to locate what I want to find.
NASA and the USAF all use this method for Wiring...
A Bunch of all White Wires Everywhere!
You will see Colors ONLY when I have a Break-Out Connector for a Customer to Splice to existing Wiring.
This is the C301 Connector in My Dash Harness for the Tail Lights, Power Hatch, Cargo Light, Fuel Level, Etc, shown below:
You will see Colors ONLY when I have a Break-Out Connector for a Customer to Splice to existing Wiring.
This is the C301 Connector in My Dash Harness for the Tail Lights, Power Hatch, Cargo Light, Fuel Level, Etc, shown below:
This is the part I'm interested in. The breakout section.
If you were to build a power distribution module for my specific needs the ends would need to be open as their final destinations might not be determined. This would be addressed "in the field" as we say, with whatever connector and connector bodies required in that instance.
As an example: Power distribution (no relays) at the battery as per my photos above. In this case I would specify 8 circuits.
Those circuits however would go to various locations under the hood. One at the heater blower, three to the C100 connector, two at the relay centre (near the C100), one to the MSD ignition box which is located drivers side at the rad support. Another for a spare.
Seeing as you would deliver an assembled PDM, with appropriately gauged wires, how am I to identify each as I peel them from the bundle and lay them in the loom as I go along?
I'm not trying to be difficult, and remember I AM a wireman by trade, and with that said, I've seen all manner of approaches for wiring methods and identification. The most frustrating of all is lack of cable I.D. or schematics or terminal block layouts.
I trust you have some contingency for customers with small but detailed requirements such as my own.
If that's to much a PITA, I'm still interested in the components and more importantly, as this is an area where my experience is lacking, the terminals, seals, and even tooling required to do the job myself.
It's long been my wish to "modernize" the wiring in the engine bay (or under the dash for that matter because what's there is a real prize!). As you can see from my photos, I'm very industrial with female disconnects, rings and fork terminals here there and everywhere.
I like the professional look of what you produce and would like to incorporate that as I try and make progress with this seemingly never-ending project.
Thanks as always. And thanks for listening!
This is the part I'm interested in. The breakout section.
If you were to build a power distribution module for my specific needs the ends would need to be open as their final destinations might not be determined. This would be addressed "in the field" as we say, with whatever connector and connector bodies required in that instance.
As an example: Power distribution (no relays) at the battery as per my photos above. In this case I would specify 8 circuits.
Those circuits however would go to various locations under the hood. One at the heater blower, three to the C100 connector, two at the relay centre (near the C100), one to the MSD ignition box which is located drivers side at the rad support. Another for a spare.
Seeing as you would deliver an assembled PDM, with appropriately gauged wires, how am I to identify each as I peel them from the bundle and lay them in the loom as I go along?
I'm not trying to be difficult, and remember I AM a wireman by trade, and with that said, I've seen all manner of approaches for wiring methods and identification. The most frustrating of all is lack of cable I.D. or schematics or terminal block layouts.
I trust you have some contingency for customers with small but detailed requirements such as my own.
If that's to much a PITA, I'm still interested in the components and more importantly, as this is an area where my experience is lacking, the terminals, seals, and even tooling required to do the job myself.
It's long been my wish to "modernize" the wiring in the engine bay (or under the dash for that matter because what's there is a real prize!). As you can see from my photos, I'm very industrial with female disconnects, rings and fork terminals here there and everywhere.
I like the professional look of what you produce and would like to incorporate that as I try and make progress with this seemingly never-ending project.
Thanks as always. And thanks for listening!
First I would still provide you Pin Maps of the Terminal Positions for each Connector and what Circuit they are part of.
Second I have have 10 Different Wire Colors with no Tracer...
Or 9 Different Colors of Tracer on each Wire Color.
So thats 10 Wire Colors with either no Tracer or 9 tracer colors (10 by 10 permutations: 100 Different Color combinations for each Gauge Wire)...
Well thats about 1000 Permutations!
First I would still provide you Pin Maps of the Terminal Positions for each Connector and what Circuit they are part of.
Second I have have 10 Different Wire Colors with no Tracer...
Or 9 Different Colors of Tracer on each Wire Color.
So thats 10 Wire Colors with either no Tracer or 9 tracer colors (10 by 10 permutations: 100 Different Color combinations for each Gauge Wire)...
Well thats about 1000 Permutations!
Now we're gettin' somewhere!
It'll be a bit (as it generally is with me) before I can write up a proper wish list. But I may surprise myself and get to it sooner rather than later.
Quick questions: The PDMs are rated at what amperage?
For what I'm after I can't see any less than 60 amps.
I suppose as part of the harness you'd also provide a suitable lead for direct connection to the battery? It would, at most, need to be two feet long.
Now we're gettin' somewhere!
It'll be a bit (as it generally is with me) before I can write up a proper wish list. But I may surprise myself and get to it sooner rather than later.
Quick questions: The PDMs are rated at what amperage?
For what I'm after I can't see any less than 60 amps.
I suppose as part of the harness you'd also provide a suitable lead for direct connection to the battery? It would, at most, need to be two feet long.
Max Amperage for the PDM or for individual Circuits?
The different PDM designs are:
-100A Per Circuit for 6 Maxi Fuses (600A Total).
-70A Per Relay with a Maxi Fuse for 2 Relays (140A Total).
-46A per Relay with 3 Relays (138A Total).
-30A per ATM Fuse per 12, 24, 48 or 72 (Up To 2,160A) Total.
Depending on the Configuration...
I will make as many Large leads as necessary, and to any length you request.
The idea of a combined fuse/relay centre would really tighten up the engine bay wiring. (Fuses are at the battery and relays at the C100.)
That said, the fuel pump relay would need the 12 volt switched control extended from the fuse box. Presently that wire passes through a grommeted opening in the firewall. The fan relay is controlled via the switch in the passenger side cylinder head. That's easy enough as it would now be closer.
I'm assuming the PMD with relays has provisions for ground as well as power?
So, thinking out loud, I'd need 8 ATM fuses the maximum being 30 amps and two relays also max 30 amps. Maybe a spare relay for futures. There's every possibility that I'll finally install the OEM twin fans. That too has been a long standing project waiting in the wings.
I'm not about to get into this anytime soon as there are other priorities before the electrical is redone.
That said, I think I've narrowed it down to the Littlefuse PDM71004ZXM. Its got more than what I need (so there's room for growth) and looks very compact.
As mentioned in the posts above, it uses Delphi Metri-Pack 280 tanged terminals, cable seals and cavity plugs.
I'll have to work through the bits needed for the circuits required. That being: two relays for fuel pump and fan, (there's an additional relay in the PDM that I can use should I add another fan) and more than enough fusing. The most I see that I need is 7 or maybe 8.
What I don't have is proper tooling the those terminals. I do have a metri-pack style crimper but it's of the generic variety and I'm not certain it's compatible with those particular tanged terminals. I'll have to dig into that a little further.
