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So I found out that my fan / blower motor isn’t working.
The car has been sitting for 10+ years and I got it running recently. Well the fan doesn’t work on any of the speeds. I have 12volts to this connection with the red wires when the key is on the fan is turned on.
At the blower relay I have 12volts coming into relay on the red wire terminal.
I have no power at the blower motor on the purple single wire at the blower motor.
I replaced the relay. Still the same results.
Remove the AC control head from the dash. Among others, you will find a brown wire aa by itself. That wire supplies 12V to the whole system. Follow it about a foot up into the dash. You will encounter a connector that is burnt to ashes. Replace both halves of it with one of the highest current capacity you can find.
Remove the AC control head from the dash. Among others, you will find a brown wire aa by itself. That wire supplies 12V to the whole system. Follow it about a foot up into the dash. You will encounter a connector that is burnt to ashes. Replace both halves of it with one of the highest current capacity you can find.
Thanks. I will look for it. Any ideas what to replace it with ?
Replace both halves of it with one of the highest current capacity you can find.
You could use any number of things. The BIG FAT slide terminals with yellow (10-12 ga) insulation, NOT the little weenie ones that are the same as the ones w blue & red insulation (18-20 ga = red, 14 - 16 ga = blue). Some of the larger Aptiv series - I think that's their name this week, until some taxation authority catches up with them again - such as 630. Deutsch has some of similar sizes. The main goal is, GET RID OF the stuuuuupid factory sh¡t that made the NUMBER ONE MISTAKE that one should NEVER make in connector design, which is, using THERMOPLASTIC to maintain the contact tension. That's why the factory connectors burn up.Evidently they let their engineering dept's sophomore summer intern design them, and lack of experience took over.
As an example:
The ones to use on the left; the ones to avoid on the right. Obviously you'd need to either use an insulated version of that, or insulate it RIGOROUSLY yourself.
You could use any number of things. The BIG FAT slide terminals with yellow (10-12 ga) insulation, NOT the little weenie ones that are the same as the ones w blue & red insulation (18-20 ga = red, 14 - 16 ga = blue). Some of the larger Aptiv series - I think that's their name this week, until some taxation authority catches up with them again - such as 630. Deutsch has some of similar sizes. The main goal is, GET RID OF the stuuuuupid factory sh¡t that made the NUMBER ONE MISTAKE that one should NEVER make in connector design, which is, using THERMOPLASTIC to maintain the contact tension. That's why the factory connectors burn up.Evidently they let their engineering dept's sophomore summer intern design them, and lack of experience took over.
As an example:
The ones to use on the left; the ones to avoid on the right. Obviously you'd need to either use an insulated version of that, or insulate it RIGOROUSLY yourself.
So i found the brown wire connector and it is not burnt to ashes. I did find a fusible link If I follow the red wire connector on the engine cowl towards the blower motor that has a brown wire and it looks like the fuse is blown. I will replace and report back. I was wrong. That fusible link goes to the under hood light !
I'm back to square one.
Last edited by pete2833; Jun 8, 2025 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: New info
