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Hello, I have a 89 Camaro and I can’t get it to stay running for ****. It cranks, starts for a second then dies, I have a new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, cleaned the fuel rail.. the car already has the vats bypass with the relay, I don’t know 100% if it has the right fuel pressure but after changing everything idk how it couldn’t I tried the screw driver test it sprays gas so hard it hits the hood. I’m super lost just need some help to see what I need to do next
Hello, I have a 89 Camaro and I can’t get it to stay running for ****. It cranks, starts for a second then dies, I have a new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, cleaned the fuel rail.. the car already has the vats bypass with the relay, I don’t know 100% if it has the right fuel pressure but after changing everything idk how it couldn’t I tried the screw driver test it sprays gas so hard it hits the hood. I’m super lost just need some help to see what I need to do next
Likely not the timing, since it starts, runs for a second, then dies
What your describing is a classic symptom of no injector pulse. Remember, the 1989 V6 has a "Cold Start Injector" that operates only with the key in the Start position. While your cranking the starter, the CSI (which is your 7th injector, located at the back of the lower intake manifold) is spraying fuel to act as a choke would on a carb. Once you let go of the key the CSI stops providing fuel. The CSI is not affiliated in any way with your other 6 injectors and is it's own stand alone circuit. So, you need to find out why your 6 main injectors aren't spraying fuel. There are several possibilities; Your VATS bypass has failed (or wasn't done properly*), your ECM isn't getting the distributor's turning signal, your INJ1 and or INJ2 fuse(s) blown, and there could be others but these are some of the most common reasons for no injector pulse. You can verify this by using a "noid light", which will very likely show that the injector pulse is indeed missing.
Here is a pic showing your CSI wiring. I show this only to give you an understanding of why it'll start & die. Your CSI is working fine, it's your pulse to the 6 main injectors that I believe is missing.
Note that this pic shows the V8 TPI, which only had the CSI till the end of the 1988 model year, whereas the V6 MPFI used the CSI till the end of the 1989 model year. The wiring for the V6 and V8 was the same.
* PS, I just noticed that when you were discussing your VATS, you said "the car already has the vats bypass with the relay" . I figure it needs to be asked if you do realize there is more to bypassing VATS than just jumping out the VATS starter enable relay, yes? The VATS kills two things if not satisfied, the starter crank signal, AND the injector pulse. If only the starter relay was jumped, with no attention paid to enabling the injectors, you'll have exactly what you appear to have, no injector pulse. If my hunch on the VATS possibility is right, you'll need to either do the key "pellet" bypass resistor modification (if you still have a functioning VATS module), or failing that ,the aftermarket VATS bypass module (sold online for around $20 to $40 depending on who you buy it from), or possibly, having an ECM chip burned with VATS deleted.
Lastly, If this car did run after having it's VATS bypassed, and now doesn't, along with the two injector fuses in the main fusebox (INJ1 and INJ2) there is a VATS fuse in the "Convenience Center" that you may want to look at as well
Last edited by OrangeBird; Nov 22, 2025 at 11:43 AM.
Reason: clarify my point ;)
🤔 I thought 89 2.8 got rid of the csi ?
a quick and dirty test to see if it’s vats is pull the ecms prom and try to start in limp home. A earlier tune in the 302 ecm will disable vats iirc 86-88 for 2.8 and get for whatever transmission you have.
🤔 I thought 89 2.8 got rid of the csi ?
a quick and dirty test to see if it’s vats is pull the ecms prom and try to start in limp home. A earlier tune in the 302 ecm will disable vats iirc 86-88 for 2.8 and get for whatever transmission you have.
Hi TP, the 1989 2.8 was the last year for the CSI on the V6, which was eliminated in 1990 with the introduction of the 3.1
It was eliminated on the 1989 V8 TPI
Last edited by OrangeBird; Nov 22, 2025 at 08:34 AM.
I like this thread. This might explain the issues I was having with the mouse damaged wiring when I got my car. I had no tach, and my 2.8 behaved similarly. After I corrected the wiring as shown in my pic I had a great running car and a working tach. This is an awesome forum with lots of great people.
Likely not the timing, since it starts, runs for a second, then dies
What your describing is a classic symptom of no injector pulse. Remember, the 1989 V6 has a "Cold Start Injector" that operates only with the key in the Start position. While your cranking the starter, the CSI (which is your 7th injector, located at the back of the lower intake manifold) is spraying fuel to act as a choke would on a carb. Once you let go of the key the CSI stops providing fuel. The CSI is not affiliated in any way with your other 6 injectors and is it's own stand alone circuit. So, you need to find out why your 6 main injectors aren't spraying fuel. There are several possibilities; Your VATS bypass has failed (or wasn't done properly*), your ECM isn't getting the distributor's turning signal, your INJ1 and or INJ2 fuse(s) blown, and there could be others but these are some of the most common reasons for no injector pulse. You can verify this by using a "noid light", which will very likely show that the injector pulse is indeed missing.
Here is a pic showing your CSI wiring. I show this only to give you an understanding of why it'll start & die. Your CSI is working fine, it's your pulse to the 6 main injectors that I believe is missing.
Note that this pic shows the V8 TPI, which only had the CSI till the end of the 1988 model year, whereas the V6 MPFI used the CSI till the end of the 1989 model year. The wiring for the V6 and V8 was the same.
* PS, I just noticed that when you were discussing your VATS, you said "the car already has the vats bypass with the relay" . I figure it needs to be asked if you do realize there is more to bypassing VATS than just jumping out the VATS starter enable relay, yes? The VATS kills two things if not satisfied, the starter crank signal, AND the injector pulse. If only the starter relay was jumped, with no attention paid to enabling the injectors, you'll have exactly what you appear to have, no injector pulse. If my hunch on the VATS possibility is right, you'll need to either do the key "pellet" bypass resistor modification (if you still have a functioning VATS module), or failing that ,the aftermarket VATS bypass module (sold online for around $20 to $40 depending on who you buy it from), or possibly, having an ECM chip burned with VATS deleted.
Lastly, If this car did run after having it's VATS bypassed, and now doesn't, along with the two injector fuses in the main fusebox (INJ1 and INJ2) there is a VATS fuse in the "Convenience Center" that you may want to look at as well
I will buy a noid light and do that check but I do believe they are all spraying. I meant the resister not relay my bad. Where do I find the convenience center in the last photo
Fuses are on the left side of the steering column easily seen.
The convenience center is to the right of the steering column. The center has tabs that lock it up into place. If you squeeze them and pull down it folds out and you'll see it. Careful the speaker/chime box and the flashers are awkward and can get caught up.
By just scrolling the forums I came across this one. I did not know there was a 10amp VATS fuse in the "convienence box". Question that I have is what are the 2 silver relays to.
thanks