Ive been looking for some 1 3/4 shorty headers for quite some time now. Can anyone lead me to some. I messaged dyno don. If their are any used pairs you know of please let me know.

 

you best have an engine making well over 500 real hp at the crank around or above 6500 rpms otherwise waste of time and energy putting them on. assuming a sbc. many tests have been done on 400 hp engines that 1 5/8" is plenty.

Long tube headers make better power, track proven, I even did a test between shorty and longs, longs made more power in the 1/4 ( big jump in trap speed).

 

^^^^^

 

I use the Hooker 2210's. work good, fit nice. Not running a full exhaust system though.

I got them off ebay for about $250.

New price is like +$500 bucks..

 

You saying 1 5/8 headers pull better numbers than 1 3/4 shorties on an engine with ported heads in which the current long tubes I have are too small in diameter hurting my flow directly out of the heads.

 

I'm currently right over 400 hp high comp. Turning 7k running 110 octane. Car will be given a 200 shot. I WILL be getting 1 3/4 headers. Just need help finding them.

 

Do you have a manual trans?

 

This is a classifieds section for people selling parts. Exhaust discussions should go here - https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exhaust/

If you’re looking for a specific part, post here - https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ension-wanted/

 

Okay thank you. New to posting

 

The 1 5/8" long tube headers will avg more torque and power then 1 3/4" shorty. The shorty by design hurt low end torque and are too big and short to be effective at scavaging, the only slight advantange you may have with short big tube headers are the bragging rights
you make 2 more peak hp , but at a severe lost of low end torque and mid range power where it matters to get the car down the track.

In fact with long tube headers with an addition of an 18" collector extension you can create even more torque and power.

Shorty headers are for fitment issue or someone who doesn't care about power output and need an easy header to install because the thinking is a shorty is just slightly better then a stock exhaust manifold.

If you have a hot little engine like you say you do, putting shorty headers on, your working backwards, counter productive.

So if you going to go thru the trouble in putting on 1 3/4" headers, make them long tubes and at the track run 18" collector extensions and hit the nitrous. Just know when not using nitrous the 1 3/4" headers will give you a soggy feeling down low and midrange, overall your car will be slower N/A at the track.

If you have 1 5/8" long tube headers now, your fine, drop the exhaust at the track and bolt on the 18" extension and hit the nitrous. This will give the best overall low end torque and power, when using nitrous you will be short shifting at 5500 rpms +/- for best e.t. and mph.

Just because you spin your engine N/A to 7k it won't make best e.t. and power at 7K on nitrous, nitrous requires a lower shift point for best mph and e.t., need to be in the thick of the torque curve.

You should post up all your specs

 

Just ordered the obx kit. I do want lts. These say 1.7" primary. 3" y. I'm gonna just tweak it to fit my application. 60s 70s 350 4 bolt .030 over. Ported polished camel humps. 64cc. Msd pro billet dist mallory box. Engine was bought 6 years ago so I don't remember cam specs. Large cam. Solid lift. New holley 750 dp with I believe 72 and 68 jets. 50/50 91oct and 110.

 

Contact dynodon, I think he makes 1 3/4 shorty headers.

 

You are revving a stock bottom end non roller 350 to 7k and shooting a 200hp shot of nitrous at it? Good luck keeping that together! Especially if you're 5 speed is the stock T5. Heck with just my stock 406 with TPI before I did the upgrades the trans didn't want to shift very well above 5k.

 

It's not stock bottom. T5 is almost toast I have an m21 ready to go in when the t5 goes boom. Ill have to look after I post this if I put my video up. 2nd to third in those rpms is a no go. Once this motor is done ill put In an lq and won't look back.

 

Was just going off the specs you gave on the motor. But yeah 2nd to 3rd was the problem area for mine. Either missed the shift due to not engaging at all or it grinded the whole way. Usually just wouldn't engage. That's why I am upgrading to the TKO. Good luck with your car.

 

Thanks I've had her since I was 14 finally got it plated and done last week. My built lq t/a has been the money pit. put that side and brought my attention back to the thirdgen