interested in picking up a 400 sbc crank for my 383 project let me know what yo got

Have you compared the cost of buying a 400 crank and having the necessary machining done to it with the cost of just buying a 383 crank?

for what do you mean? i thought that all you have to do is drop the 400 crank in it with different pistons and you have a sbc 383 stroker? tell me im incorrect

the main journals need machining as they are larger, iirc

A 400 has larger journals than a 350. You'd need them to be turned down by a machine shop.

would it be better to machine the block and put oversized bearings in or machine the crank if i ever get one or just get a 383 crank and drop that in

You can't machine the block, but if you could it would be more expensive even than turning down a 400 crank.

A brand shiny new cast steel 383 crank is only about $175 off the shelf. For that price, it doesn't make much sense to put a lot of money into machine work to make old factory parts work.

http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61471

Here, save yourself alot of time and money and buy my complete shortblock!

I've got a good 400 crank, just needs to be cleaned up it has some surface rust- 50 plus shipping

bump ...kind of weaning off of the 400 anybody got a 383 crank?
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oh btw apeiron idk who told you ya cant machine that block down. they just set it on a machine and lock down the mains and run a bevel ended reamer and you can machine it to any size you want. then get undersized bearings to match. lol

Did you check my short block for sale? It's a hell of a deal and eveything in it is like new with less than 200 miles on it.

yes i checked out your setup but i just dont have the cash like that

Sure, you can align bore a block to take off about .010" or so and use oversize bearings to clean up a block that's out-of-line or out-of-round. To put a 400 crank in a 350 block, you'd be taking off .200". There's a reason why 400s have larger caps and main bolt spacing.

you would know more than i would about degrees and numbers i was just under the assumption that you massage the right size into the bearing guide and buy larger caps to fit. but that all beside the point of this post thank you for clearing things up though. i think i will look for a 383 crank

I have a brand new in the box SCAT 383 stroker crank. Fits 2 piece rear main seal motors(pre-86 blocks).....For use with 5.7" or 6" Rods and proper Pistons. Will drop right into a 350 block and uses Standard(350) size main bearings .......$215 shipped.

ebay's got em brand new for 130

You do know that you can't just slap a crank in and be done with it, don't you? You'll probably be able to reuse your rods, But you'll need pistons with the corroect compression height for a 383. also you'll need machine work on the block, clearancing the oil pan rail and the bottom of the cylinders to clear the rod throws, the rotating assybly will need balanced too. If you read that post of what all my 383 consisted of you would have seen that it cost me almost $3k to build that short block. Youll be lucky to do abudget build for half of that.....so you'll be cheaper buying a shortblock already done......something to think about.

god damnit you AZZHOLES stop making look so stupid!!! I HAVE KNOW IDEA what it takes to change a 350 into a stroked 383. i was under the influence that i drop a 383 crank or turned down 400 crank into a .30 over 350 block 6 inch rods and properly dished pistons. i think im just gonna throw out this whole damn idea because i dont have the money for it. im gonna stick with building my lo3 for now. i know that sounds stupid but im going in the right direction on the 305 block

OK....I'll let ya in on something alot of people have forgotten about. If you get a stroker crank and a set of stock 400 rods(5.56" I think), you can use stock 350 pistons. That's how the original 383 strokers were made. Although you still should budget for a balance job if you want it to stay together. and I wouldn't rev it too high, 5500ish max, because with the short rod lenght it will side load the pistons quite a it and that ain't good.

Going that route will minimize the amount of clearancing needed and it can e done with a carbide bit on a die grinder.

i believe stock 383 rods are 5.7's. so if i take a 383 crank with stock rods and stock 350 pistons i can get away with it?

No, because the pistons would be sticking up above the block. You'd have to use 400 rods if you were going to use 350 pistons.

The ground 400 crank/400 rod/350 piston is the way 383s were built back in the day before there was any aftermarket for performance parts. You could still do it for a budget build (although the 383 crank would probably be cheaper), but better results can be had with better parts.

yeah like i said i really think im just gonna go out the door with this idea. it would be fun later on but i know i'll get caught up in it and wont finish my 305 build. then i'll run out of money completely and end up with two half built motors. thanks for clearing up alot of fog on the stroker idea though

i have a 383 set up that was in my car till a piston cracked. less thank 5k on everything. It is a eagle steal stroker crank with eagle i beam 5.7 rod and 7 keith black pistons. all in nice shape. too much timing was the reason by it cracked. asking 350