I am in the process on swapping a 5.7 TPI into my 91 RS convertible. My donor car was a 90 Iroc. The engine is in as well as all the wiring. I have also installed the new fuel pump. The engine is ready to fire but i tried to start it today but the starter did not engage when I turned the key. Everything else seems to work and the starter engages when I jump the solenoid. Does anyone have any ideas why it isn't turning over. The donor car was an auto and mine is a 5 speed. Because of this I have not yet been able to connect either of the sensors on the trans. I also have not changed the PROM. Although these are problems I could not see them from keeping the car from turning over. I was driving the car earlier this week so it is most likely something I have done(or haven't done). The wiring harness hooked up with no problems except the trans connectors. Could the VATS system have anything to do with it? The security light turns off when I turn the key. All my interior lights and radio etc as well as the headlights work. I have gotten frustrated for the day and have decided to tackle it tomarrow. It is probably something stupid that I overlooked. Any input is greatly appreciated.


Aloha from Hawaii,



Jason

 

i don't know much about VATS, but i'd guess it's ok. i'd suspect a park/clutch safety switch problem, if not that then i'd be looking at the VATS.

 

Vats

 

You are saying the Security light goes OFF when you turn the key?
It may not be VATS. Have you done a code check with the ECM? Double check that. If you are throwing a code 50+ I would suspect the ECM and VATS.
Otherwise, it is some other problem.
Hope that helps.

 

VATS wouldnt keep the car from turning over as it simply shuts down the fuel or ignition system I would check the starter, selinoid, and park neutral switch, if it will turn over when jumping the terminals on the selinoid I would start with that making sure all the connections are tight and free of dirt, grease and any other debrie that may block the connection

 

i heard a kid with the same problem a while back and he needed to tighten down the grounds by the battery terminal and then everything worked fine. check crank fuses also.

 

Thanks for the input everybody. I still have not found the problem. All grounds are tight and all fuses are good. I tried to run the codes but it will not even give me a code 12. I don't know what's up. There is a two prong male weatherpack connector by the distributor that goes nowhere. The only thing that happens when I turn the key to start is the temp gauge goes from cold to all the way hot. I'm clueless two days in a row, help please!



Jason

 

well, i say if your computer isn't giving you any codes then something would be wrong in that area. is everything connected to the computer? it seems the computer isn't getting power or isn't hooked up right. also, check those two wires by the dist. to see what they connected to before. maybe that can help.

 

is your oil pressure sensor & relay functioning ? my friend's crapped out and the engine wouldn't do anything until it got fixed =/

 

Check the positive going to the Starter and also the ignition maybe they are bad If you can start the car by bypassing them.

From my experience the VATS system has a way of reseting itself after a few times of the key going in and out of cylinder I not sure how many times but it is worth a try.

I hope this helps,

L8R

 

I've tried all your suggestions and no luck yet. I believe the wires to the interior connector are different. Does anybody have a wiring schematic for a 90 and 91?



Thanks again,



Jason

 

Well, I think i got the problem pretty much figured out. It ended up being a ground problem. I just spliced into the diagnostic port ground and grounded it directly. this is also why the computer would spit any codes. I'm sure I have a ground in the wrond pin somewhere(probably driver's firewall connector(, but it os working for now. I still have a knock sensor code being spit at me. I'm pretty sure it is because I used the 305 TBI part and it is a different part number. The correct part will be here tomarrow. I also still have to extend the VSS sensor wires and hook them up to the trans(harness is automatic and car is 5 spd.) I was wondering what the deal with the chip is going to be. What is the difference between a stick shift and automatic chip? The car is driving now but is in limp mode due to the knock and VSS sensors. Will the chip affect drivability? Thanks to everybody for all the help.



Aloha,


Jason