I saw this setup in the Scoggins Dickey catalog. It's for a Vortec 383 Street Cruiser that puts out 407 HP, and 460 Ft.Lbs of torque. It's got the Vortec L31 heads, and the Performer RPM air-gap intake, and such. Has anyone else seen this? Does it sounds like a good setup?

 

I haven't seen it, but I'm planning on doing the same thing myself, except with a little more power. How much is it? Warranty?

 

Well, the 383 itself isn't a package. They just listed the part number and such for their engine. But the Vortec heads (L31) and the RPM is a package for $779.95 i think. I'm going to get it. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Other than going with E-Tec 200's instead of the L31 heads... No I don't have any suggestions.

 

What's the difference between E-Tec and the L31 heads? Thanks

 

E-Tec's are an aftermarket head that Edelbrock has put out based upon the Vortec design. They flow really well, are aluminum (so much lighter), and can handle a large cam. Check them out on www.edelbrock.com I plan on going with a set on my 383 (or 400 I'm still debating).

 

Ok, so the main difference between the 2 is that they're aluminum? I heard that, if I'm building a daily-driven steet machine, that i should stay away from the aluminum heads. Because of the fast that they can absorb heat, and aren't too good for daily use. Is this true. The main reason that I'm leaning towards the L31's is that they're together with the Performer Air-Gap for like $700something.

 

Whatever you do, do not get stock vortec heads. They require $300 mods before you can even run them in a performance application. Try Pro Topline vortec heads, about the same price and don't require mods.

 

I've heard that too about aluminum heads. However, the new LS1's, LS6's, LT1, and even the L98 Corvettes all run aluminum heads from the factory. If you let it heat up properly, don't just start the car and then mash the accelerator to the floor, you should be ALLRIGHT. Although my motor guy recomends cryogenically freezing the aluminum heads to make them usable on the street 100% of the time. (But talk about money!!!!) The E-Tecs are a much higher performance vortec than the stock ones.

 

Ok, so the L31 assembled heads are not very good compared to the E-Tec ones? SDPC said that they used them in their Vortec 383 that made 460Ft/lbs of torque. So, i'm guessing they modifyed them somewhat? I don't know that much about modifying heads, but i can learn if they're gonna be expensive. Where can I find the Pro Topline Vortecs? Are there any other alternatives?

 

I have to be honest and say I haven't seen the specs on the L31 but just compare the stats on them to the E-Tec's, you can all of that online. The E-Tec's are probably a better head but by how much I don't know. And if you're content with the L31's power potential and the price well then you have to do what's right for you.

 

Well, I was reading in the 'Modifying Small Block Chevy's' book by David Vizard, and he said that the L31's were a great out-of-the-box cast iron head. He said that there's not much to be gained from porting, because the heads are so good by themselves. So, I'm even more confused now. lol Oh well, maybe I'll learn some moe from the book, that'll let me decide for myself. Anyone else want to bump in, and enlighten us? BTW, thanks for tellin' me about the E-Tecs jharms.

 

stock vortecs can't support camshafts with more than .450 lift. if you want to run more than that, you need to cut the seats and upgrade the springs.

scroggins-dickey sells the upgraded heads good for up to .525 lift for 319.50 each, so a set would be 639.00. a set of etecs would run you over 1,000.00. the etecs flow better, but the vortecs are an incredible bargain. for a thousand bucks, you can get a set of afrs that will flow better than the etecs.

here's the link to the upgraded vortecs:

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...d=277&pid=9063

the upgraded vortec head kit with the performer rpm air gap is 949.95

here's the link to it:

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...2174&pid=89535

 

p.s.

you might want to call a few machine shops and see what they'd want to cut the seats and upgrade the springs and retainers for you. the difference between the stock and upgraded vortec head kits from scroggins dickey is more than 200 bucks. you might be able to get the upgrade done cheaper at your local machine shop. while they're doing that, throw in an extra 125.00 for a pocket port job and you'll flow as well as the etecs for a lot less.

 

Hey, thanks man. I was planning on getting the upgraded Vortec head kit with the Air-Gap, so looks like that's a good deal then? Thanks a bunch.

 

The E-Tec's are still a good head. First off they're aluminum so you save 34 pounds over the cast heads, plus they can handle up to .575 valve lift, quite a bit of a difference even over the modified stock heads. They flow incredible without porting and don't require guided rocker arms, which the others would. (And those things aren't cheap!!!!) Plus they can handle standard, or center bolt valve covers, where as the stock Vortecs require center bolt valve covers. So by the time you figure in the porting, machining to handle more valve lift and the guided rocker arms, you're paying pretty close (I'd say within $50-$75) of the E-tecs (which way 34 pounds less, can handle a larger cam, don't require center bolt valve covers [which cost more], don't require the guided rocker arms, and look cooler). I'm still advocating the E-tecs, in case that isn't obvious.
Check it out at...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/56978/index.html

There's a ton more info. on the E-Tec's at this site.

 

jharms,

i'm not saying the etecs aren't good heads, but, for his application, i think they're overkill.

on a daily driver, you're not going to exceed the .550 lift limit on the cam of the upgraded vortecs, so the .575 limit of the etecs is superfluos.

the screw in studs are nice, but a street engine redlining at under 6,000 rpm is not likely to pull out a stud.

the upgraded vortec head kit he's talking about is virtually the same price as the etec heads, but also comes with a performer rpm air gap intake, rocker arms, head bolts, head gaskets, etc.

that makes the vortec a much better value in my mind.

i agree the etecs being 34lbs lighter is a positive thing, but seriously, if the old rule of thumb is you go .10 faster for every 100lbs you pull out of the car, then he could look for a .034 improvement from the weight saving. taking 34 lbs off the front of the car would surely improve the natural understeer as well, but is it worth over 400 bucks more to save 34lbs, have a bit more horsepower and torque, be able to run more cam than you ever would, anyway, and have the security of screw in studs?

 

Yes, I did forget that the price included COMPLETE heads, so yes the Vortecs are cheaper. (that was hard to say) I just love those E-Tecs and someday I'm going to get me a pair...

 

read your post again, think you're missing the point. the UPGRADED vortec heads are already machined for bigger cams with stronger springs and retainers. that kit cost 949.95 and comes with the intake, rockers, bolts, gaskets, etc.

what i'd suggested earlier was that he call local machine shops to see what they'd charge to do the spring/retainer upgrade. if it's cheaper than the 200.00+ difference between regular and upgraded vortec heads, he should buy the regular vortec kit for 700.00, have the spring upgrade done locally, reinvest the savings and maybe a few dollars more in a pocket port job (usually around 125.00).

if he did that, he's still have less in the entire head kit than he would in just the etec heads, and they'd flow very similar numbers.

 

I will admit, for him, the E-tecs would be an unnecessary expense unless he was planning on using a HUGE cam and wanted the weight savings they provide. You're correct, he probably shouldn't invest in the E-tecs. (But do get the heads and intake matched ported!)

 

You don't need a machine shop to cut down the guides and open up the pockets. You can buy a tool at Napa that you put in a drill and use the valve guide to center it and cut away. It automatically stops once it hits the spring pocket because of the way it's designed. We did it on my brother's Sportsman IIs and it took about 5 minutes.

All heads can benefit from porting or else it wouldn't be illegal in stock eliminator rules. Vortecs really love a little bowl blending to unshroud the intake. A little massaging around the guide and the seat and some port matching work wonders. Every 400 horse dyno pull on L31 heads involved some level of porting.

 

Hey thanks for both sides guys. So the Vortec kit's the best deal. I was thinking that too, but just needed some input. Any other ideas? Will a roller cam work good with that setup? Thanks for all the input.