Hiya Guys

New to everything here so please bear with me. Also, I have only been in the USA for 3 years, so i'm still learning a lot of the variations of meanings in words/descriptions, so I hope my post makes sense to you all..

Right: Question one.
I have an '87 third gen Camaro (the only car i've owned in this country for the 3 years i've been here) it's a 305 carb and totally stock.
Recently, it has started to give me problems which are, low idle and dying at around half throttle (as if I turned the ignition off). I took it to a repair shop to have the comp codes read, but the computer wouldn't comunicate or give any codes. The mechanic told me the carb was the culprit for the problems, but it runs fine if I gently accelate up to speed and dont try to floor it. Any advice, the mechanic was also quoting me $800 to fix the carb.

Question 2 (more thread relevant)

The boss where I work has an LT1 engine and Trans sat in the warehouse which I am trying to pry out of his hands. He tells me it came out of a Camaro, but thats all I know of its history, it has the computer and some wiring with it, along with the injection system.
How much of this engine/Trans/Computer will drop straight into my car without modification? will my accesories (a/c pump, alternator, power steering, etc) still fit?
Any help or info would be much appreciated...
Take care, be good.....
Sara Lou

 

I had the same problem with the computer not communicating with the scanner. We tried a new computer and sure enough, that was what was wrong. It didn't solve any other problems, but just the one about no communication with the Snap-On scanner. I don't know much about carbs, but that quote seems pretty steep.

 

Hi Iceman

Thanks for the info, will I need to replace the whole computer or will just the PROM be enough?

Take care, be good...

 

I am not the right person on this board to give you a good answer to that. The only reason we tried that was because I was doing some temporary work for a mechanic and we were able to order parts and TRY them out and then return them if that wasn't the problem. I would hate for you to spend $100 on a new computer and that not be the problem and then the parts store not take the computer back. Seems they are picky about letting you return computers. Once we ordered one and it didn't work..... we looked inside it and it was all rusted and corroded. Turns out some other shop swapped a bad one for the good one and sent the bad one back to get a refund and O'Reilley's didn't catch it. Anyway, we just replaced the computer.... PROM was still working fine.

 

I had an '87 Iroc with a 305 TPI computer which idled funny. I had some diagnostics done and the reading were comming up "funny" on paper. After replacing the computer the car idled perfect. I don't think you have to change the prom. It's probably best to remove the prom ( making sure you are grounded so no static may damage it) from the computer and purchase a refurbished computer from a local auto parts store which carries or can order one in for you. Return the original computer as this will save you some money. Drop the prom in the new / refurbished computer and pop it in the camaro and see how it runs. As for charging $800 to fix the carburator I would think you can get a new one or a mighty nice used one for that price. But before doing all that you may want to consider ( if you haven't already) giving the car a tune up. Try changing the cap, rotor, and wires. Replace the spark plugs and check the timing of the ignition. This might fix your problem also without going through all that "other" stuff. Good luck!

 

$ 800.00 to fix a carb. ???? Please stay away from that guy......he's clearly trying to take advantage of you !!! At least try another shop in the area. Good Luck !

 

$800.00 is very steep for a carb rebuild, considering you can get one already done for about 400.00 or you can do it yourself for about 30.00 it not that hard.

also, the LT-1 swap is doable but not for the faint of heart, you will need the computer,complete wiring harness and all the accessories for the lt-1, your standard sbc acc's wont fit on the lt-1, in addition, you will have to install a elect. fuel pump for the lt-1 since your running a low pressure mechanical pump now. and as I found out the other day (see my sig), you will have to reroute your radiator hoses because the inlet and outlet on the lt-1 are backwards from a sbc motor.

try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (to clear the computer), then reconnect it and try that, my car does the same thing from time to time and that seems to fix it for a while. these carbs are fairly forgiving so it take alot to mess them up.

 

Hiya Guys

Firstly, thanks for all your input and advice.

I had the plugs, wires, filters, etc. changed and the timing checked before I went to have the codes checked.

The car ran fine and strong up to it dying one day which turned out to be the ignition module.
Since fitting the new module it has suffered the "dying at half power" symptom, but the low idle started the day I had the codes checked. I'm wondering if maybe the guy checking the codes shorted the computer in some way?? he seemed to have trouble conecting things up.

We are going to Alabama for July 4th weekend, so I will try the 'disconnect battery' advice when we get back.

BTW Redbird, will the radiator hoses still have to be re-routed even if the engine came out of a Camaro?? at least that's what the boss tells me it came out of...

Thanks again Guys
Take care, be good...

Sara Lou

 

Yeah, the water pumps on all the LT-1's are the same, the only thing that "MIGHT" help is the radiator out of the camaro, I really don't think it would fit in our cars but I don't know. it's not all that hard to do but it doesn't look the best, but, as long as it works I'm not too worried about how it looks.

 

Hiya Guys

Well, back from Alabama now.
I tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes to see if the computer would revive, but no-go, still dead and no codes, it did however work on my husbands Dodge truck after it went sick returning from Alabama.

What I need to know now is: Where would be the best place to buy a computer for an '87 305 4 barrel CHEAP!

Also, I have my eye on a 4th generation Camaro at a local dealer, so I need to get my car running proper. If the new computer doesn't fix the problem I might need a carb too, so any info on cheapest options would be appreciated.

Sorry if all this sounds a bit trivial, but being from England I don't know my way round the car market in this country just yet, and I thought the best place to start would be to ask the experts.

Thanks
Take car, be good
Sara Lou

 

Sounds like it is time for you to go junk yard hunting. You sound mechanically adept enough to pull and replace a computer. Just find a junk yard that has one and do it.

 

$800.00 to fix your carb seems a little high. i bought a rebuilt carb,for my 87 camaro and it cost $460.00 from auto zone. it was the same exact carb that was on the car.

 

Hiya Guys

I ordered a computer from the local auto parts store today, it should be here Monday, $80. I didn't fancy going the 'Junk yard' route incase I ended up with one as bad as I already got.

I also went and checked out the 4th Gen I saw at the local dealer today. It's a '96 model, 3.8 V6, interior and exterior are good, apart from minor scratches on body and power window motors bad.
The dealer told me it needs the rear oil seal as it's leaking slightly, otherwise the motor sounds fairly sweet. He claims to know its leaking cause it drips on the exhaust and smells of burnt oil, which (I might be mistaken here) I find funny because I thought the rear seal resided inside the bellhousing and therefore oil wouldn't reach the exhaust?

Despite this I feel its still quite a bargain for a '96 model, it's up for $2599 and he's willing to take $2200 for cash. I fancied this one with the intention of dropping a 350 motor or similar into it, but after looking under the hood, there doesn't seem to be a great deal of room in there, the motor sits a lot further back than the 305 in my 3rd Gen does and the width of the engine bay looks a lot narrower.

How much work and expense is invovled?, am I taking on more than I can handle? bearing in mind that I don't have acess to, or proficiency in use of, special tools, such as a welder.

Any info, feedback, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Take care, be good...
Sara Lou

 

A motor swap from 6 to 8is a big deal. Your best bet would be to buy a wreck (along with the 6 car) and go from there. If you get an lt1 car you don't necessarily need the motor since a normal SBC will bolt in but motor mounts, tranny, and the rest will need to be there.

 

Hiya Guys

Well, I dropped the new computer in tonight, no difference, still running the same (if not worse) and when shorting the two terminals to get the codes, the SES light just stays lit without a flicker.

I tried disconnecting the battery again to clear everything but no difference. When I try to rev the engine, I get to around 2,000 rpm and it dies, splutters, and then idle's really low, like 400 - 500 rpm.

As to the 4th Gen 6 to 8 swap, would it be worth keeping my third gen as the donor vehicle for trans, mounts, etc, and then getting a 350 motor ??

One more question to add if I may, I know its a thorny subject on these threads, but how do I remove the smog pump and piping. The pump is seized and has the belt removed, it has been that way since I bought the car and I would like to tidy up the engine bay, we dont have any emissions testing here.

Thanks
Take care, be good...
Sara Lou

 

Cound be a bad sensor in the carb itself. Or just a carb in need of a rebuild. A remanufactured carb is like 400 or so from a parts store.

 

Hi Guys

Things have been a bit hetic around work over the last couple of weeks, so not had much chance to do any posts.

Well, the Camaro is still poorly, but there has been a slight improvement, idle is slightly better and the 'dying at WOT' has moved up the rev range, now I can accelerate fairly briskly without it dying as long as I don't try flooring it, which can be a pain at times when passing traffic.

I haven't done anything to the motor since installing the new computer as I don't want to start replacing things until I know for sure what i'm dealing with. For the time being i'm concentrating on tidying the bodywork leading up to a full respray.

Anyway, to the point (I can ramble a bit at times), I was talking with one of the mechanics at work the other week and he was telling me about his van, it's got a 350 motor with a 400 turbo trans. The steering broke on his van so he parked it up in the yard until he decided what to do with it, last week he got fired and his van is still sat there. To 'cut to the chase', after asking around at work, it seems he is going to junk the van, so I am hoping to obtain the van VERY cheap.
What I need to know now is, what will I need off this van to drop the engine and trans into my 3rd gen?, i've heard the driveshaft needs adaptation? which rear axle will I need to use?

Unfortunately I have no info or details about the van i.e. what year, model, CC/none CC, carb/FI, etc (my guess is eighties model and its about the size of an Astro). If I decide to go with this swap, I will be getting headers and probably a new carb/distributor so I can delete the computer.
I will rebuild the motor before fitting it and would like to install a NOS kit, what engine internals will need to be strengthened for the NOS?, also, which heads would be better, my own 305, or the van's 350?

Any feedback, advice, comments, suggestions or guidance would be gratefully appreciated.

Thanks
Take care, be good...
Sara Lou

 

The motor will bolt right in aside from the dipstick being on the other side of the engine (I believe that with headers it clears no problem). For the trans you will need a new crossmember and torque arm. Sphoon sells a kit with the arm and crossmember. You will need a longer driveshaft too, sphoon also sells one. I don't think you are gonna need or want the th400 unless you are sprating ALOT of NOS into the motor. It is stronger that a 700r4 but has no OD and requires specal parts to bolt in.

With a TH400 it is gonna be early '80s at the newest. It is prolly CCC (almost exactly like you camaro without the knock sensor). It might not be a stock tranny but if it is then the above holds true. And it ain't no astro - it is gonna be on a full size truck frame (have fun gettin the motor out - vans are "fun" to work on)

Depends on how much you want to spray. Cast pistons are good to about 125hp. Hypers a little more. with forged pistons and stock crank and rods 150 -200hp. Go with all 4340 parts and spray as much as you want.

I would probably port and polish your 305 heads and use those. With Flat top pistons (it will have dished pistons stock) and the 58cc chambers you should get 10.25/1 to 10.75/1 compression, which is great for a street car (some might think is a little high but with a good tune you shouldn't have a problem on pump gas). I know nothing of the heads chevy used on trucks back then but they will most likely suck (truck heads usally make good torque and no HP). And if it is a 2bbl carb (not likely) the heads will suck.

I hope that helps

 

Hi Guys

Yes Cronic, VERY helpful and extremely informative. What little info I did get from the owner was that it is a replacement motor and trans.

As for removal, the van is junk anyway, so if nessesary cutting and hacking could be used to simplify matters.

Do you have any idea what the average cost for a trans rebuild/refurbish would be?, if i'm going to rebuild the motor might as well do the trans too.

If I use the 400 trans will this help with the computer delete (torque lock-up)? Not exactly sure what lock-up is, but have seen it mentioned on these boards often when computers are removed, most cars in the UK are stick shift for economy with gas being over $7 a gallon.

Will running over 10:1 comp mean I have to use higher grade fuel?

Thanks for all the helpful info, and as a final note which I forgot in my last post, the 4th gen I was interested in sold before I got the cash together, so i'm back to looking around again, but at least I can get the 3rd gen up to par now.

Take care, be good...
Sara Lou

 

the turbo 400 would put your gas mileage into the pooper. not having OD sucks in a daily driver (I know I had an 82 t/a without OD and I got like 12mpg with a gutless crossfire 305). I would just rebuild the 700r4 with a kit from probuilt and use that. And it is just a matter of installing a switch to manually lock-up the converter, just do a search. As for a rebuild I would call shops in your area and ask them what they want for a rebuild prices vary depending on who is doing the work.

And with 10:1 comp 91 octan would be a minimum. But then I run 93 in my 87 lg4 anyway (it doesn't like anything else) but you won't need racing/avaition fuel (although it might be a good idea when you plan on spraying alot).

and vans are fun to work on because the winshield is about even with the carb - there is sirously an acess panel behind the center concil (no i can't spell) to acess the engine. Although if you remove the whole front of the car pulling the motor striaght out shouldn't be hard.