Dyno 2000 ? reliable or not ?
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From: Nashville TN
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Engine Analyzer is a lot better if you can afford it... its like $100 or something like that...
but it was within 5 hp and 10 ft/lbs of my buddies LT1 setup...
:lala:
but it was within 5 hp and 10 ft/lbs of my buddies LT1 setup...
:lala:
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From: West Seneca Ny... Suburb of Buffalo
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 388 Stroker 10.5:1
Transmission: th350 Full manual VB
the major thing with dyno 2000 is....as with any other dyno program you have to have all the perameters set. I put all my motors specs and it was almost exact
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by Chris89GTA
Engine Analyzer is a lot better if you can afford it... its like $100 or something like that...
Engine Analyzer is a lot better if you can afford it... its like $100 or something like that...
$100- $100 rebate = $0.00
http://www.themustangshop.com/ea30.zip
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: IOWA
Car: 86 TRANSAM
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I used mine for comparison. I figured if it was calculating wrong, at least it calculated the same everytime. Therefore comparisons between heads and cams would at least give me an idea of the power curves. I did use the correct head flow numbers (from Chev High Performance magazine) and got the cam specs from the vendors web sites.
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its fairly accurate if you put in the exact specs for every part, Even the airflow of the heads.
Alot of people just choose "High Performance Camshaft" and "Fully ported heads" and expect it to be correct.
The more info you give it, the more accurate it will be.
Alot of people just choose "High Performance Camshaft" and "Fully ported heads" and expect it to be correct.
The more info you give it, the more accurate it will be.
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