I'm building a 3rd gen with a big block and was wondering what anyone else is running for headers on theirs as well as what they are running for trans and rear end...

Thanks

 

well i'd get the stahl headers i believe they make them.....check out summit or jegs for them....i believe hooker also makes some for around $350 uncoated.


TH400 trans

9" or 12 bolt will hold up fine. Moser, Strange, etc.

 

Just some questions I have reguarding the swap-
How much can a TH400 handle- hp tq wise along with 9" & 12 bolt.

What are you thinking for a engine combo. Mine is gonna be B&M 420 Megablower on top of 454 or 468. Mostly stock engine with forged pistions and heavy port & polish on ret. heads. Then next year I'm gonna add forged rods, crank, & a NOS system.

http://www.400raptor.com/
Makes the Stage 3 400 Raptor for 1000+ HP $1449.00 no core

 

i have checked out the hoker headers, but they are way to small, my motor is a 600 ci merlin big block, we are just about to order fresh pistons and a new set of aluminum heads, the only thing i have to make up my mind on is if i want it blown or just n/a with lots of juice, i really would like to keep it under a hood because i want a car i can leave somewhere without someone screwing around with it...i think the 400 trans is the one i will go with, just seeing what everyone else is running, also checked out the 35 spline axle 9" from moser...thats a sweet unit....

 

I have a TH400 and Strange Engineering 12 bolt rear. A basic TH400 can take 800 Hp. The only thing extra I put in mine is kevlar clutches. I would call the manufacturer about how the rear should be built to suit your needs and associated cost. A 12 bolt is more efficient than a 9 inch and will put more power to the ground.

I had a set of Hooker SuperComp headers and they just didn't fit. They also dump the exhaust right under the front doors and it's ugly as all get out. I eventually had a custom set of 2-1/8 inch primary Tri-Y headers made by Lemons Headers in California. The exhaust dumps right next to the TH400 oil pan so you can use a conventional exhaust sytem. They still have the template if you want a set made. They cost about $800.

 

i have some coming now, 2 3/8" then they step to 2 1\2, into 4 1/2" collectors, so they should flow......what are you running for a supercharger on your car??? what times does it run, what gears do you run.

 

It's a B&M 177 low profile baby blower. It's been a stagnant project for several years now and it has never been on the road. So close... yet so far. Frankly, I'd sell if I could find a buyer. So many things have changed in the last 6 years that the car doesn't have priority to be finished.

 

qwktrip.....i have a $50 for you and that car...

 

Wow Jon. What kind of money would that buyer have to part with?

-Schultzy

 

if i go with a blower, it would ba an 8:71 and with that it is just gonna make too much power to run around the street, and i don't want the motor hanging out of it too bad, so i think i will aim for 10.5:1 comp and run 300 spray on top...see how that works...

 

Prices are done by PM's, Mike.

 

if anyone has any pics of big blocks in third gens, i would be interested in seeing them...
Thanks

 

My car is on my page at www.koolmeister.com

Miles

 

pic`s of my 85z with a 477 bbc

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/487725

 

thanks guys....looks good...do those headers ever shoot out to the side eh!!!! they don't look like fun to put in..
those big motors sure fill under the hood well....
now is there a solution for the tall valve covers so the wiper motor works???

Thanks

 

I have full roller rockers under the stock valve covers (aluminum), with out removing the wiper motor tallies just won`t happen.
The a/c box is also a problem but I`m putting in a non a/c box this spring, and will post pic`s at car domain site of the clerance.

 

I have Crane 1.7 roller rockers and had to use tall valve covers. Still clears the wiper motor anyhow.

 

I have a big block in mine also. The headers had to be custom made, since the engine/trans was repositioned, and I also removed the rear portion of the L&R front subframe (next to the trans), and ran straight 2x3 rectangular tubing from that point to the rear of the car. This allowed for much more room for the 4" collectors and exhaust system, and still have reasonable ground clearance, plus it now has a full frame.

 

how bout some pic`s of that?

 

In the attached picture, you can faintly see the outline of where the original front subframe extension was. (this is a left side pic - mods are similarly done to the right). After this portion was cut out, a cap was welded on the end of the existing subframe, and the new frame rail was welded on to that. You can also see 2x2 square tubing going toward the rocker panel at this pont. This helps to further strengthen this area, and also makes a nice foundation for front roll cage bars. A new trans crossmember needed to be fab'd also, since the stock crossmember mounts were removed with the original subframe extensions. You can see the left side mount for the new trans crossmember on the inner part of the frame rail in the pic.

 

That looks to be a great fit, I`ve got the hooker super comp`s that exit at the rocker panels and have been looking for a way to tie the car together, any ground clearence problems? did you have to recess the tubing into the floor pan since the floor has many contors and the tubing is straight?


You know I`ve seen your car at ubly didn`t use to have a blower running in the high 9`s and you went to just carb a year or so ago?

 

No ground clearance problems, since the bottom of the frame rails is at the same level as the bottom of the front subframe that it joins. The frame does go through the floor in the area underneath and behind the front seats. Since my car has been back-halved, the frame rails go straight back to the ladder bar crossmember, and continue up over the rear axle and all the way to the rear bumper. They are spaced apart only wide enough so 14x32 slicks would fit comfortably between the quarter panels and the frame rails. If you're not planning to back-halve the car, you might want to just run frame connectors like SERPENT99 did in this THREAD.

Nope. It wasn't me. My car has been supercharged for many years, even when it had a small block. I do frequently go to Ubly though. I was last there on 10/26/03 - ran a new best time of 9.54 @ 144.8 mph.

 

Motor city mike,
Does your car have a removable panel next to the trans on the passenger side? and does it have lexan windows? I Know I was at ubly two years ago and was testing and tunning on a saturday and ran down the 1/4 behind you, It`s been a while but I rarley forget a f body of that caliber.

 

No removable panel next to trans - interior is carpeted. In fact, it still has the complete original interior (except for the back seat). Car is all glass (windows) and steel (even the hood). I keep hearing from different people that there's an imposter in the area though!

 

Nice car MCM.

 

Perfect topic for me right now guys! I did not think about all the changes I am going to have to do with this new power package I bought yesterday. A few members have really given me some very good advice on suspension mods, rear end types, to tubb or not to tubb, 8 pt cage, brake ugrades even this topic of headers. But what headers? Most likely a custon made set for my project. Most have convinced me that converting it to a full race trailered car will be my best option. Here is what I got yesterday from the trucking company...

I bought this engine from a guy who bought it less than 30 days ago for over 12k. I paid $half of that + freight. Motor is still in the original crate and has all that is listed below plus a few other items that was thrown into the deal.

DESCRIPTION:
GM Performance ZZ572 Deluxe, 572cid/620hp
The ZZ572/620 is built around an all-new Gen VI tall deck race block, filled with a forged, 4340 steel, 4.375” stroke crankshaft, shot-peened rods, and forged aluminum pistons. The newly redesigned rectangular port aluminum cylinder heads result in a pump gas friendly 9.6:1 compression ratio. Also included is a .632” lift, hydraulic roller cam shaft, roller rockers, dual valve springs, single-plane intake manifold, and an 850cfm Demon carburetor. A GM HEI ignition feeds the ZZ572/620 all the electricity it needs to yield 620hp and 650 ft. lbs. of torque! ZZ572 / 620 Technical Information ·HP: 620 @ 5500 RPM ·Torque: 650 Ft. Lbs. @ 4500 RPM Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 ·Bore: 4.560” Stroke: 4.375” ·Block: Bowtie Tall Deck with One-piece rear seal ·Crankshaft: Forged 4340 Steel ·Connecting Rods: Forged 4340 Steel, H-Beam style, Shot peened ·Pistons: Forged aluminum with full floating wrist pin ·Piston Rings: Plasma-moly rings ·Camshaft: Hydraulic roller (.632” / .632” lift) (254 / 264 duration @.050”) Lifters: Hydraulic Roller tappet ·Cylinder Heads: Aluminum Rectangular Port with a 118cc combustion chamber ·Intake Valves: 2.25” Stainless Steel ·Exhaust Valves: 1.88” Stainless Steel ·Valve Springs: Dual spring (1.540” diameter) Spring Retainers: Hardened chromemoly steel ·Rocker Arms: Aluminum Roller Rockers, 1.7:1 ratio ·Push Rods: High Performance (1-piece) ·Intake Manifold: Aluminum Tall Deck single plane ·Carburetor: 850cfm, mechanical secondary ·Windage Tray: All new Screened and Louvered design ·Damper: High RPM torsional damper ·Distributor: GM HEI ·Ignition Timing: 36 degrees total advance ·Spark Plugs: Bosch +4's ·Fuel: 92 Octane

 

Looks sweet- keep us posted on your progress

 

that sure should make your car go, lemons just made my headers for my 600 tall deck, they are awesome.....keep pics of this install as you go so we can see..
later

 

Some of you guys seriously have a death wish if you drive those on the street

Not that I wouldn't take a 509 powered Camaro around the block though *hint hint*... hehe