My build up consists of this long block -

10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal

Im still asking myself why a factory engine came with vortecs AND
a high lift cam, but couldnt find anything ..

I found hooker super camp hedders for cheap ..
Probably gonna run a Victor Jr, cause for now it'll be carbed.. tho later could go with fuel injection, unless I can find an alternative ..

The cam I have in mind is a cam sold in the new section of Lunaty

Good cam for 350-400 with aftermarket FI chip, 2500 SS converter, 3.55 or better gears. Works with NO2, too!

226@50 .530
234@50 .530

112 LSA

gears would be 3.55's, trans im undecided tho the cheapest and strongest trans I can find here is a muncie m22 for 600$

I know ill need extra or custom parts but I know ppl in machining/industrial mechanics, I can prolly have the part made.

Tho this list is a plan that can change depending on what I find, If I stumble upon a 6 spd, Ill take it if the price is right.

Tnx for any opinion & comment

 

as long as you have the supporting hardware, you can never go too big

 

Thx Texas lol, any comments on the build up?

 

the cam looks like it could be a lot of fun, but to really take advantage of it you're going to need more head for it. the vortecs are good for budget builds, but as far as I know when you start porting them it screws with the flow. I would say, either look into better heads, or a cam that more closely matches those heads.

 

There is no such thing as too much cam. Its a myth.

 

while that is true, there is no point in getting a massive cam if you don't have the hardware to take full advantage of it. now it you plan to go bigger later on and just want to try out the cam now, I'm all for it, but if you don't plan on doing any future mods, then you'd be happier with a cam matched to the rest of the components.

pasky I know how you stand on it

 

Hmm, I really feel like buying it NOW lol ...

Feel free to get technical pasky, after all, you are running a
big cam in that LT1.

Is it 224-236@50 ?

Doesnt the LT1 and Vortec head have similar specs?

both have 170 cc intake ports,64 cc chambers, and 1.94-1.50 valves ?

I know vortecs have a lousy exaust port but the heads will have whatever machine work needed to flow good #.

 

the cam he has is known as the CC306 and its a VERY popular cam among the LT1 crowd.

Specs are:
230/244 duration @ .050
.510/.540 lift with 1.5's
112 lobe sep

its hyped up to be a little larger than it really is. I was very impressed with what it did in mostly stock LT1. This summer, I'm hoping to do a cam swap in mine, but I'm going even bigger The cam I want is called the GM847,

Specs:
234/242 duration @ .050
.539/.558 lift with 1.5's
112 lobe sep

Considering that the Hotcam is 218/228 with .525/.525 with 1.6's, I think I should see a noticable increase in power

As far as the LT1/Vortec comparison, the Vortec's slightly outflow the LT1's on intake, with 227 versus the LT1's 210, but the LT1 flows almost 30 cfm more on the exhaust side with approx. 170 cfm versus the Vortec's 145. But the thing about Vortec's is the swirl-port design of the combustion chamber. I've heard that when you start porting on Vortec's, you destroy the port flow that the heads were designed for. It could be misinformation on my part, just passing along what I've seen.

 

Just to give you an idea, when I heard the lope and felt the drivability on this cam, I wanted bigger immediately. This feels moderate. Go big the first time, otherwise you'll wish you did,

 

Well, I cant find the mag, tho CHP did an article on a vortec headed budget build, they installed the xe274 and claim to have made 440hp.

So this kind off put out the perspective that this Lunaty grind isnt too much.

What do you guys think of the rest of the build up ?

 

True, but he won't have the supporting hardware.

Pasky already has to turn his LT1 to 6700 which is pushing it to get all the power out of the CC306.

Going fast is not always about peak power, especially if it's not a manual trans car. Granted, all the cars being discussed here have one [although Spectre has me confused because he mentioned an M22 and a 2500 converter], cam choice is a lot more important in an automatic IMO.

It makes no sense to spin the **** out of a motor just so you can run a bigger cam and have more peak power if it's not optimized for your combo. Figure out a cam that is milder, nicer to springs, better driveability, and will work better with your combo. The other thing to consider is that you don't want to go with a huge cam if your heads won't flow the numbers.

If you're going with an automatic trans, I would put more converter in then a 2500 and go with a cam that will work better with heads. Are you going to spray the car? If so, consider a nitrous grind. You'll lose a little bit N/A, but they pick up nicely on the gun.

 

Actually it makes power at 6500 on stock heads, it only drops 7hp at 6800 . Yea, find out how you want your powerband. The bigger the cam, the higher up your power band moves.

 

The part regarding the 2500 tc concerns the camshaft description.
The m22 is the cheapest and toughest trans I can find here ..







EDIT: Nape, If CHP installed a 230-236@50 cam in a vortec build and called it a day, are you saying they're just doing advertizement for compcams ?

Being a flat tappet opposed to a roller I assume the 2 cams in question are about equal.

 

Don't buy into peak horsepower, that means nothing, you want strong steep powerband fast or a nice flat one through out. I have the first. What you don't want is a power band that slowly gains momentum. The XE grinds I hear are really good for down low and up top. Nice flat curve.

 

Ah, thanks for clearing that up. Had me confused for a second.

Were they stock Vortec heads? I'm always skeptical of magazine articles, especially when they claim good HP for cheap. Half of the parts end up donated or "we had them laying on the shelf".

Anyway, if it were me, I would take the money you'd spend working the Vortecs [$800] and add it to the money you could make selling them [$300-500], to buy a pair of aluminum aftermarket heads.

They will flow as well, if not better then a Vortec, they'll be able to handle higher lift, and you'll lose 50+ lbs off the nose of the car. A good choice would be a Dart Pro 1 [http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...47&prmenbr=361]. That way you can use a standard SBC intake as well, rather then having to pop for a Vortec. Not as big of a deal since you're going carbed, but it'll make a big deal if you ever convert to EFI, considering the only Vortec TPI manifold is from Scoggin-Dickey and I believe it costs in the mid $300 range.

That's just my opinion on Vortecs though. The pros don't outweigh the cons for me. The heads flow well when worked but for what you'll have into them [screw in studs, valve guides ground down, port work, valve job, possibly bigger valves] unless you can score cheap machine work, you might as well go aluminum.

Oh, and about the hyd flat tappet in the CHP mag vs. hyd roller in your motor, the hyd roller should make more HP throughout the power band as long as the cam is ground to take advantage of a HR being able to use a quicker ramp rate.

 

I see so much apples & oranges here my head is spinning.

What works in an LT1 combo has very, very little to do with what will work in a Victor Jr. carb'd combo. It is very easy to over-cam a carb'd street-driven engine. If this isn't intended as a street driver, then please tell us that.

This also has me confused: "Im still asking myself why a factory engine came with vortecs AND a high lift cam, but couldnt find anything .. " Instead of "why a", did you mean "which"? If so, the answer is "none". The biggest lift with iron Vortec heads would be the SDPC Vortec TPI crate, which is hardly "factory". Vortecs are truck engines, and the cams reflect that. While I don't have any personal experience with the heads (other than towing the '57 to Topeka in '02 with a borrowed '97 pickup), what I've heard is: work on the exhaust bowl/port, and leave the rest of the head alone (after modifying guides/springs to accomodate valve lift, of course).

And you can't really compare roller and flat tappet cams. They act very different. There isn't anything beyond cost that a flat tappet does better than a roller.

And, finally, for the record: Hooker makes "headers", and Hedman makes "Hedders".

 

This is a street driven car, tho since the aquired second vehicle, the Z28 will do fine as a weekend warrior.

So I take it your saying the cam I picked is too much ..

I picked this cam after seing memebers here go for the XR276HR
sporting vortecs. Some even went bigger.

It doesnt seem that diffrent.

The parts I listed are the parts that are the easiest to obtain here, and like said earlier, the m22 is picked for its durability and price.

That choice can change, but the car will be standard.

According to mortec this is it.10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal .

Thx for the help, but I still dont know whats wrong with this build up, fell free to suggest diffrent parts..

 

Thanks for the clarification.

I wasn't saying that. I was cautioning against all the comments that you can't get too big of a cam.

Mortec doesn't do punctuation well. They are saying what applications have used that block casting. It doesn't mean that Vortec trucks get a high performance crate motor roller cam.

Let me try to punctuate (and edit) for clarification:

10243880. 350 cubic inch displacement. Years 95-00. 2- or 4-bolt main bearing caps. Used in: Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors, and "ZZ4". Provisions for roller cam, one piece rear main seal.

That help any?

 

Cam looks great for a Vortec 350, a nice wide split in duration will help clear the weak exhasut ports on the Vortec. I like the cam personally, most of the mag buildups run the 230/236 110LSA Comp Cam in case you were wondering. But I like your cam on the 112 LSA. Should be more streetable.

Be sure to get enough spring for it.

Dont be foolish and make a kistake by running that single plane manifold.

Run a RPM AirGap.

You should be all good.

 

Oh and by the way, dont run that single plane manifold, just wanted to be sure you got that part...............................

 

Yes It did !!



Got it, Tnx !