Right now I have a 305 in my 86 and I'm swapping to a 350 eventually. I found a 350 block for $75, but its only a 2 bolt. I don't know how many bolts mine is, but is it universal fit? Also, this thing won't see over 400hp, will it really matter? I'm trying to get around 300NA and maybe a charger if I strike it rich one day.

 

If you dont 'ever' plan on seing more than 400hp, the 2 bolt is fine ..

Id get a 4 bolt, its just a better investment for later options ..

You can get one out of a yukon-sunurban-1500 ...

'96 - up had the vortec heads with the 15" back cut if I recall correctly, and its a 4 bolt roller block ..

 

For just about anything you could drive on the street, 2 bolt or 4 bolt is fine. For anything more, you'd probably want a 2 bolt block so that you could machine it for splayed 4 bolt caps anyway.

 

Well I'm not a racer or anything. I'd be happy with a built 305, but I figure if I can get a 350 cheap might as well see what I can do.

 

Just look for a block in good condition with no core shift or anything, and forget about how many bolts it has on the mains. It really doesn't matter to you.

 

Core shifts?
I'm new to the whole building an engine thing.

 

When they cast a block, sand cores are placed into a mold to create the voids that will become the cylinders, water jackets, etc. and then metal is poured in around them. Sometimes the cores will shift around a little so the bore spacing won't be quite right, or the cylinders will be a little thinner on one side, or the crank to cam centerline might be a little off, etc. It might not be bad enough that it would cause the block to be rejected for factory assembly, but it's not something you'd want to start out with on a rebuild.

 

Just to hit on what has been already said a two is actualy better than a 4.

Exactly!! dont go worrying about 2 or 4 on your first engine build. Just make sure whatever you get you take it in for a inspection by a reputable engine shop before you make an investment. building engines is fun but be prepared to spend alot of cash.

 

I just noticed this too. The number of bolts on the mains has nothing at all to do with any other parts of the new or the old engine. It won't affect your swap at all.

 

Also try to look for a roller block(roller lifters that ride on the cam). It isnt a must have for 300-400 hp but is more likely to be a better investment. I believe 86 and up cars had them. Im pretty sure some trucks had solid up into the early 90s. Maybee someone else could chime in and feed you a little more acurate information.

 

The factory roller blocks were the 87+ blocks with the one-piece rear main. He wouldn't be able to use some of the parts from his 86 two piece RMS block. Older 2 piece RMS blocks are considerably more common.

 

'86 was the first year for the 1 pc rms.

 

My mistake.

 

Just put in some ARP bolts, or better yet studs and you'll be fine.

This aint a race car is it?