what "has" to be hooked up
i did away with anything that added weight to the car
i have an l69 ready to be bolted up
and the wiring is a mess
and i want to do away with all the car does not need to run

what poisitivly does the ecm have to be hooked up to for the car to run correctly

i want a minimal install all wires that dont need to be used will be tucked and hidden


thanks for any help offered

and if your gonna flame then only do it if your actualy giving advice along with the flame lol

 

i got this from the "Father & Son 1st Car Swap Project Chronicled" thread

what all does the ist loom from the pass fender consist of?
with the shape of the exhaust i cut it all out so no egr
but id imagine i can get the motor running without it?
from what i understand the most important connections would be the computer controlled qjet and the distributer

 

Everything to & from the ECM goes through that passenger side harness.

EGR is built into the intake manifold. There is an exhaust cross-over passage in the center of each head, with a corresponding port in the intake manifold, with passages connected by the EGR valve to allow exhaust gases into the air/fuel flow when the EGR valve is opened. There is a solenoid on the rear passenger side of the intake that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve.

Sounds like what you eliminated was the A.I.R. system. Not required to run properly, is required to run as cleanly as possible.

So, what you need: CC carb, CC distributor, coolant temperature sensor, manifold vacuum sensor, barometric pressure sensor, knock sensor & module. Plus oil pressure gage sender, engine temp sender, distributor power, tach wire, starter wires, alternator wires.

If automatic transmission, torque converter lock-up harness.

 

thanks that helps out alot
yeah i will need to hook back up the computer lockup

will the ecm freak out that the egr will not be doing its normal job or is it something that is even sensed by the ecm?

 

Why won't the EGR work? I still don't understand why you think you removed it by removing the exhaust.

If the ECM doesn't sense a load from the EGR solenoid signal, it will set an error code. Other than that, you can get some part-throttle loaded pinging if the EGR isn't working as it should, because some extra timing is built into the PROM to make up for the effect of the EGR gases. Happened to me when the EGR passages in the intake manifold were plugged up with soot.

 

i was referring to it not working properly since the exhaust is removed
sorry if i didnt make that clear
i dont plan on running it back up there if i dont have to

 

You were clear. You're also mistaken. The EGR doesn't run up from the exhaust. It is internal to the heads and intake manifold (except for 86-1/2-up TPI Vettes).

The tubes that go to the intake manifold and the tube that goes down to cat are part of the Air Injection Reaction system, or A.I.R., not the EGR. You can run without that system with no error codes or running problems (ask me how I know).

 

lol sorry i far from a mechanic sometimes i get things mixed up

 

We all do from time to time.

You shouldn't have any problems. The L69 ECM had a slightly different PROM than the LG4, but the LG4 PROM will still run the engine.

Did you get the entire engine with carb, etc., or just the longblock? How about exhaust, air cleaner?

 

i have the l69's ecm already installed

everything the engine was attached to was junk
drivetrain wise

i have the carb
exhaust im just going for headers to mufflers to sidepipes

the trans am has been sitting with no motor for about 8 years
and i was too young to know what i was doing and or catalog parts and connections
i just unhooked everything and took it out

now im staring at an engine on the stand and the wiring hanging from the firewall wonder how i got myself into this lol

but its going to be a fun learning experience

i took the heater core, blower fan, and all ducting out of the dash and from behind it and in the engine compartment and sealed the holes up with sheet metal

painted the driveshaft after a good sanding
cut out the exhaust and am currently trying to get the 700r4 as clean as possible and ready for a coat of paint

i also plan on painting the rear end
and basicly all suspension componants before i undercoat the car and put the motor in

im glad i garaged this thing
the underbody looks great
not much rust just a few pepper spots every no and then
so im gonna give everything a good sand and paint so that it wont rust out in the future while im down here

i dont know im rambling
but hell i figure since im waiting on the money to get the rest of the stuff to put it in its worth it to take care of other things before they become a problem and make it look alot cleaner

but thanx for the help so far along with what i have confirmed through you or read on this sight i have alot better understanding of what else needs to be done

 

Rambling or not, it gives a much better picture of what you've got, what you've done, and what you're facing.

You'll have a much better understanding and appreciation of it when you're done.

Good call on the exhaust. The L69 exhaust is much, much better than LG4 stuff, but headers are the right way to go.

I might even be interested in those L69 exhaust manifolds, if you still have them. I have a vehicle for which headers wouldn't be justified, but the L69 manifolds would be a step up.

 

i will have to look to see if i kept them around
they wouldnt have all the lines coming off them though if they are
they got broke when i pulled the motor

 

Don't need the lines. The butterfly valve on the passenger side would be handy, but not necessary.

 

i found one of them
still looking for the other

just let me know what its worth to ya
enough to just make it worth the hassle of mailing it would do