I swapped out my old L03 for a modified L98 setup (speed density). I switched from a 8746 ECM to a 7730 ECM. I have a chip from PCMforless that I thought was supposed to bypass VATS among other changes. When I try to start the engine no sound from the starter.

I have Fuel Pressure---

My dash needles move when I try to crank--

But nothing.....no clicking from the starter....nothing

I checked for trouble codes but I just got a code 12 over and over.

engine has never been cranked, this was supposed to be the day....

 

Are you sure you have the wires on your starter hooked up correctly?

(Reference below measurments to power)
Check B+ at starter. Whats the voltage drop?
-Should be less than .3v

Check switching power at starter. Does it go from 12v to less than .3v from KOEO to KOEC?

 

I checked all the starter wires and such. I put them on just like I took them off. Damn these computerized cars....

 

check voltage at the starter.. you may have a bad fusable link

 

What I said...

 

On top of VATS there is a starter enable relay.

 

going along with the voltage drop theory, an easier task may be to measure resistance, those particular wires get hot and heat creates permanant resistance after time

 

Where is the VATS module? My car is an '89 RS.

I have an idea to hook up a start button.

Run a line to the starter solenoid and clip into a line that is hot when the key is on. This would work right? Totally bypassing the whole inigtion switch, just turning on the key and pressing the button until the engine cranks and starts?

 

VATS can be bypassed in the chip to enable the fuel injectors to fire...but if it isn't cranking, you need to bypass the VATS module (should be behind the driver's kickpanel. do a search for the wiring diagram and simply splice two wires together so your car will crank.

I had to do this to get my 91 camaro to crank when I switched from DFI 6 back to the 730 ECM.

HTH.

 

So what two wires did you splice, what color? I see a relay of some kind behind the driver's kick panel. It has a small and medium size GREEN wires and two YELLOW wires connecting to the same relay. IS this the starter enable relay?

Will my car even start after I get it to crank? I mean I have fuel pressure, found that out with a huge injector leak. But will my injectors fire after a get the starter vats problem solved?

 

I can't remember the schematic...but do a search for VATS schematics...it should be here on thirdgen still.

You have to take this one issue at a time. Get it to crank, then if it will crank and not start, check to see if you are getting the injectors to fire or not.

 

It was a starter wire!!! Stupid me..... Engine turns over now and I have fuel and the injectors are firing but I guess my timing is way off because it will not start. Starter sounds wierd too. Like weak or something, maybe its the compression, I don't know. Its so close to starting!! I can see fire coming out of the headers but it work start yet. Crap!!!

 

 

your rotor is 180* off.

 

Just flip it around it will be right where it needs to be to get it cranking...

 

so if the timing is 180 degrees out, will it cause the starter to sound different?