350-406 Whats the best way to pull my engine?
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 30
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From: Wichita Falls TX
Car: 88 IROC Z/ 92 Z28
Engine: L89/L89
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/9 bolt
350-406 Whats the best way to pull my engine? Pics added
I am swapping my 350 tpi to a carbed 406 in my 88 IROC. I have never pulled an engine out of any car. Is there any detailed instructions on how to remove my engine. I plan on rebuilding the 350 and putting it in my 84 Camaro with a t5 so what all do I need to pull out of the 88. Any help would be great I am sure I will have plenty of questions down the road and I will keep you posted with pics along the way, I might have some tonight.
Last edited by 88TPIZ; Sep 19, 2006 at 08:35 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls TX
Car: 88 IROC Z/ 92 Z28
Engine: L89/L89
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/9 bolt
Here are some pics
Here is the 88

The 406 waiting for pistons

And the pistons ready to go
Here is the 88

The 406 waiting for pistons

And the pistons ready to go
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
that garage in question is far...far to clean to actually work in.
Anyways, do a search on engine swaps and you should figure it out rather easily. Unhook the whole harness, remove the bellhousing bolts, Torque converter bolts, engine mount bolts and the fuel lines. lift the engine out slowly realizing that if it "sticks" then there is probably something still attached to it.
Anyways, do a search on engine swaps and you should figure it out rather easily. Unhook the whole harness, remove the bellhousing bolts, Torque converter bolts, engine mount bolts and the fuel lines. lift the engine out slowly realizing that if it "sticks" then there is probably something still attached to it. Supreme Member
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you know, that's the only thing I could think of too... It looks like no one has ever worked in that garage, ever. Like the ones on TV, work gets done down the street, then it's towed into a sparkling garage to make everyone green with envy.
Like, what's up with that workbench?!?!
painting the 406? now's the time...
remove all accessories from the motor before pulling it, makes it easier.
PS. Happy 4000th post to me!!!!! woot!
Like, what's up with that workbench?!?!
painting the 406? now's the time...
remove all accessories from the motor before pulling it, makes it easier.
PS. Happy 4000th post to me!!!!! woot!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls TX
Car: 88 IROC Z/ 92 Z28
Engine: L89/L89
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/9 bolt
Thanks for the tips guys. Ya the shop is new but we try to keep it pretty clean somtimes too clean. Also where is the best place to bolt the engine hoist to, to get the motor out?
Last edited by 88TPIZ; Sep 17, 2006 at 08:53 PM.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
i'd use a chain the accessory holes in the front and back of the heads on opposite sides of the engine....ie front left and rear right, etc
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Posts: 1,229
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73 12 bolt with Brute Strength
I like to pull the engine and trans as a combo. It is best done with two people with one having the task of directing the tail end of the tranny which will try to swing around and poke a hole in your AC box or break off your master cylinder.
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: L98 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Will the torque arm provide enough strength to hold the transmission if you choose not to pull them both out, or do you need to brace the tranny with something else?
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 74
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From: fort gratiot, michigan
Car: 1982 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 383 stroker 4 bolt roller, juiced
Transmission: b&M th400
Axle/Gears: 4.10 with c-clip elims
ive yet to pull my trans with motor and ive had 3 motors in it... it is far easier to do both but if there is no reason to all you need is a nice bottle jack or even sissor jack under the trans... try to keep it tight but not jacked up you want that trans in the exact possition to line up with the engine later when you drop it back in... out of the times we have done it only once was i able to get it back on the trans myself usually we had 2 guys rocking the motor back and forth then one hopped under and lined up the trans... little bit more work but we got it to go... but unless you have done some work to that
700r4 i sugest you pull it any ways that 406 is gonna turn it into mash potatos if you dont atleast upgrade some of it... 700's hate tq... and ive never had any luck with them even built ones... if that t.v. cable isnt perfect on the trans which you probably are going to have to replace when you swap over to carb... then you will probably blow the 700 within a few weeks... but if you find someone that knows them in and out and get it adjusted right they can go forever...
700r4 i sugest you pull it any ways that 406 is gonna turn it into mash potatos if you dont atleast upgrade some of it... 700's hate tq... and ive never had any luck with them even built ones... if that t.v. cable isnt perfect on the trans which you probably are going to have to replace when you swap over to carb... then you will probably blow the 700 within a few weeks... but if you find someone that knows them in and out and get it adjusted right they can go forever...
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