fuel pump question
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Kankakee, IL
Car: 89 rs convertible
Engine: 350 carburated
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: posi 3.73
fuel pump question
i have a 89 rs convertible that had a 305 tbi with a 700r4. i have switched it to a carb'd 350 and th350 trans. it runs but runs a bit rough. i think it might be because of the pump that is in the tank. i put a mechanical pump on the block, and just hooked the inlet to the outlet from the tank. the only thing that ishindering me from getting the pump out of the tank is dropping the tank. there is a lot of stuff involved in that, which i dont have the time to do right now. can i just cut a whole in the sheet metal where the top is stored to access the pump? if so does anybody know exactly where i would need to cut so i dont end up having to cut the whole section above the tank out? ay input would be apprciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
First, in case nobody else has said it, welcome to thirdgen.org.
Second, what exactly do you mean by "runs a bit rough"? Typically, the fuel pump doesn't have anything to do with a rough running carbureted engine, unless possibly you're over-pressurizing the float needle valve and flooding the carb. Other than that, the in-tank fuel pump can cause a problem if it is not running and you're trying to get the mechanical pump to pull through it, but that should only be a WOT problem, and only when the fuel bowl gets sucked dry. Using the in-tank pump as a pusher to the mechanical, with a return-style regulator, is about as close to an ideal fuel delivery system as you can get.
Finally, cutting a hole in the floor to get at the in-tank pump is one of my pet peeves. I don't condone it under any circumstances. It's a horrible thing to do to the car, has its own risks inherent to it, and leaves a potential safety hazard. In my opinion, you should either do it right or plunk down the bucks to have someone do it right. I can't see how it saves any time, to boot.
Second, what exactly do you mean by "runs a bit rough"? Typically, the fuel pump doesn't have anything to do with a rough running carbureted engine, unless possibly you're over-pressurizing the float needle valve and flooding the carb. Other than that, the in-tank fuel pump can cause a problem if it is not running and you're trying to get the mechanical pump to pull through it, but that should only be a WOT problem, and only when the fuel bowl gets sucked dry. Using the in-tank pump as a pusher to the mechanical, with a return-style regulator, is about as close to an ideal fuel delivery system as you can get.
Finally, cutting a hole in the floor to get at the in-tank pump is one of my pet peeves. I don't condone it under any circumstances. It's a horrible thing to do to the car, has its own risks inherent to it, and leaves a potential safety hazard. In my opinion, you should either do it right or plunk down the bucks to have someone do it right. I can't see how it saves any time, to boot.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Kankakee, IL
Car: 89 rs convertible
Engine: 350 carburated
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: posi 3.73
it seems like it is actually running extremely rich. i am not sure if the elec. pump is disconnected or not. i got the car with the motor and trans put in it, but nothing at all was hooked up. i had to wire everything and plumb the lines. right now it is in a temporary stage until i get a couple of days off so i can start ripping the computer out. it isn't running any regulator on it, that is why i want to get rid of the in tank pump and extend the line and put a strainer on it.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The easiest way to verify whether or not the electric pump is operating (with an assistant, of course) is to disconnect the fuel line at the carb, put something under the line to catch any flow (but not a styrofoam cup - ask me how I know), and turn on the ignition. If the electric pump is functional, you'll get flow immediately.
A simple way to regulate pressure is to use a stock-type mechanical pump that includes a return. Excess pressure is routed back to the tank via the return line.
A simple way to regulate pressure is to use a stock-type mechanical pump that includes a return. Excess pressure is routed back to the tank via the return line.
Supreme Member



Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 77
From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mw66nova
Carburetors
11
Nov 13, 2003 11:31 AM






