I don't surf the Camaro sights much. But I thought I'd share some info on my car since I see a few people are interested in doing V6 Swaps.

Here's some pictures of my car.
~Scott






I'm running a 4" inlet

That's a www.rjcracing.com 5" Downpipe adaptor

and 3" intercooler piping.

I'm currently sending my T-Converter out to get re-stalled. I've tried everything to get some more stall out of it but it was built for a stage engine that had a bit more bottom end power than me.
I'm on pump gas with 17lbs of boost running 11.19@123mph. With a lazy 1.9's 60ft times. The car's been 1.48's with a diffrent trans/conveter.
Im about ready to put it away for the winter. I plan on putting alky on it in the spring along with the conveter being setup right.
~Scott

 

That is a very nice clean Camaro especially underhood. Buick 231 is a great swap for a F-Body.

 

Noticed your 95 Jimmy in your sig. I just got done turbo Charging my 98 GMC Jimmy so my wife can have more fun in the winter. Her Daily driver is a 92 GMC Typhoon... so I had to do somthing with the 98 to make it more fun.
If you ever want to do somthing with it let me know and I can send you over the details and pictures... along with a parts list. It's almost all stock Typhoon parts that fit right on!
~Scott

 

I just love it!

Bring on the Buicks!!

Great car. Very clean. Nice job on the install.

 

That is a very nice car. Those buick motors can be made very quick.

What does it take to do the swap? I have though about it if I got a third gen as a daily driver?

The Buick V6 has been the base motor for the GM Holden Commodore for the last 20 years, they only changed recently. Over here you can get a V6 with gearbox and all accessories for $100.

 

Very clean and very fast. aka sweeet!

 

looks like the intercooler pipes are molded into the radiator support how did you do that? Can we see better pic's of this?

 

Thanks guys!

I put about 1500miles on it in 5weeks this fall. Despite having a 5" downpipe it go's under the car and splits into duel 3" with Dynomax Ultraflow's then dumps just after the rear end. At the end there I pointed the exhaust towards each other which cancels the sound waves. It's very quiet.

To do the swap you'd need a entire GN driveline realy. Engine/tryans/harness.
Your factory F-body radiator is fine.
You'll need a custom transmission mount unless you pick one up off a TTA.
The GN headers fit the body fine. You don't need TTA stuff to make it work.
If your going to keep your A/C then you'll need to do some fiberglass work to the A/C area there. (narrow housing)
Lots of detail work on wiring and all depends on what year you have.
Don't do a 84/5 GN engine... It's just not worth it.

If anyone has interest in doing somthing similar be glad to guide them through it. Send me e-mail anytime.
UR50SLO@aol.com
~Scott
This is the wife's 1992 GMC Typhoon.

 

Yes.. I cut the core support and welded the manderal bent 3" pipe into the support.. This way it misses all the heat that the radiator "would" have put on to them. Normaly they run in back of the radiator and under the core support to the intercooler.
Here's some more pic's of how that was done.
~Scott

 

Great Job!! I sold my thirdgen to buy a turbo Buick. You can't beat the power they make. If you are looking for a good converter, check these guys out. http://www.patsperformanceconverters.com/

What turbo you running?

 

I bought all the parts that are on the car right now for a stage 2 engine. I plan on building that in the next few years. This little 109 block that I have will have to last till that stage2 is built.
I'm running a 76GTQ on it now.
The converter that is in the car is a good converter .. it's just ment for a stage engine and stalls too low for my stock block setup. It'll only cost 150 or so to re-stall it.
I like the f-bodys with the GN engines.. best of both worlds!
Thanks,
Scott~

 

Wow. what a great car, I can only hope mine looks that good when my swap is done. I was just wondering what size of wheels those are in the back and did you have to tub it at all? And I see you cut into the heater box to run the downpipe. Is the heater still functional, If so how did you seal it up?

thanks

 

The rear wheel wells are stock. not tubbed. The Tires are a M/T ET Street
28x13.50. They are on a 8" wheel.
My rear suspension is not stock. That won't effect how much tire you can put under it.
I use South Side bars with coil overs. No stock lower controll arms.

I had to cut into the stock heater box and re-shape it for the 5" downpipe but it still flows plenty of air. Yes.. it works

It was a factory heater car... no A/C... no Power locks.. nothing.

Full interior obiously.... stayed in tackt.

My car started out as a 2.8L/Auto as well.

I've got other pic's and info. E-mail me anytime.
~Scott

I've decided to put in VSC in the transmission. "variable stall controll" it allows some of the fluid to go back to the trans pan when activated and your torque converter "stalls" a extra 1000rpm. Then when un-engaged it returns to the nice tight converter and helps with MPH and life of the transmission.
Also upgrading the crank and putting in a roller cam for spring.
That should put me where I want to be with the car.

 

very nice camaro a friend of mine is thinking about doing the same thing. Could you send me a few more pictures of the plumbing for the turbo and the mod to the radiator support to WCS13@aol.com? Thanks

 

I've got a few more pic's other than the above... I'll send them to you.

I had the converter re-stalled... NO VSC... (as mentioned above) too expensive.

I'm going down to 3:25 gears this year/mild glass hood. Steering rack is already done last fall.. love it.
So... With the few little things I've done and on my to-do list for spring here I should be able to go 9.90's on 93 pump gas on a drag radial tire.
~Scott

 

Any reason you didn't want to go 2004r? Just curious as I have seen guys run in the 8's with them in GNs. I would think the lower first gear would help. Plus, you could drive the thing farther on the highway between meets!!

Again, just curious...

 

I purchased the TH400 and converter for 1000.00... You'd have 3500-4000 in building a bullet proof 200R4 and then another 1500 for a good converter.

The 400 has proven to be very reliable and inexpensive to build/repair.

With a 3:25 rear gear I should be at 22-24mpg on the highway... I think that's prety good

Money is the main reason since I'm on a budget and most the stuff I have is used.
~Scott

 

i agree...the 200r4's are just a waste of money. we put 3 of them that were built in my friends buick and killed all 3 of them. now he has an ATI th400 w/griner transbrake and no more problems...until it pushed 2" sections out the head gaskets. oh well, we finally reached the weak point of a 120,000 mile stock longblock at 11.39 shutting down at the 1000 ft (my buddy sh*t when the gaskets blew out and turned it off).

ur50slo--your car looks good. i like how you molded the charge pipes into the core support.

 

You gota love how a stock block and everything will take abuse. They are truly amazing.

I was a small block nitrous guy before getting into Turbo Buicks. I got rid of all my small

block stuff with in a few months of playing around with these cars... Then started in

on the Syclone/Typhoon stuff too.. Well.. just about anything I can put boost to!~

Thanks for the nice comments... Wish me luck in Drag Week
~Scott