I was thinking about a good reliable power combo and I thought to look them up and ask y'all about it. So here it is intake is a Weiand Stealth Air Strike, and a Holley 4150 HP 600 CFM carb, and heads will be GM Performance Parts SB-Chevy Bowtie Vortec Cylinder Heads, and exhaust will be Flowtech Firebird/Camaro Headers with primaries being 1 5/8in and collector will be 3in.

Now how much would this make.

 

you seem to have left some things out. BLock type? Piston type: forged, cast, hyper. COmpression ratio? Cam? First things first, no matter what it is, it is better off without the flowtech headers. I had some, they sucked. They are mishapen, warped, garbage, that doesnt want to fit, or seal. I guess they performed decent, I mean, they were better than manifolds.

 

It's a old style block, low compression, stock internals

 

cam?

 

I was thinking of a Lunati Bracket Master II

 

8.5:1 350. 40 year old cam grind. Decent heads. Carb will really depend on how its set up. I was say, an honest real world 300 would be exceeding expectations.

 

Well i know that i am just asking what an estimate would be. What would your estimate be if it was based on a mild tune.

 

sums it all up.

 

probably make a little more than a stock lo5 with a decent carb on your combo.

 

 

I wouldnt say that it would be "well over 300" to the crank. I would say 300 hp would exceed expectations.

 

call a tech line or buy car craft/super chevy when they do a budget engine build. Component selection can be a bitch and very expensive especially if it's your first engine.

 

the heads are decent, the carb is a tad small, there are much better cams out there, personally I'd run an proformer rpm manifold, those headers are kinda crappy.. it would really help to know if the deck height is stock or not and what pistons are in it to help determine the compression ratio.. you left out a ton of important info to get a realistic guess as to powerout put..

 

The compression ratio is around 8.5:1 porlly this is a stock gm factory motor not a GMPP Crate. As far as first engine, my first was in a 1970 C10 3-SpD on the floor hurst shifter, 350 i built to around 500 horses to the crank and around 490 ft-lb it was a very nice truck except when i went to do a full restoration floors were rusted out the *** and my lil Rat Truck was very quick and before i got my 3rd gen i did smoke a few but that wasnt just 3rd's it was 4th gen's too that was fun but usually i would kill Stang's and Dodges, but i sold it so i could get my third gen turns out the 305 LG4 was very worn and on bad oil its whole life(took the valve covers off and the texaco oil was burnt and everything around the retainer springs, then i took the intake off and the valley was covered in the same cake) so it had a knock like it had be hit by a train within in the night i picked it up(yea that sucked) but now i got a 350 in the car just putting the vacuum advance distributor on today and gotta figure out all the damn wires. but i am getting prepared for the summer.

 

well if you already built a near 500 horse 350, why don't you just use that same recipe?

 

i would use the same stuff. if not. maybe get even better parts and try to get even more power out of it.

 

The reason is because it got around 5mpg and im looking for around 15-20mpg hopefully(explains the small carb). And some if not all those parts were not cheap the heads cost around 3200 i think and the crank, pistons and rods,bearings, etc cost around 4100, and the cam was was a custom grind(got that from a family friend). The intake was pretty weird but nice it was a weiand intake and the carb was twin holley 550cfm. The ignition was all MSD. But that was a pre-74 block and now i have alot of computer shtuff so i was wondering what yall think.

 

15-20 mpg shouldn't be too hard to accomplish and still have a decent amount of *****... what are you refering to when you say a lot of computer stuff? Didn't see anything about computer controls in your origional post.. when you say its 8:5.1 what heads would that be with? Typical mid 70's smog dogs came with 76cc heads.. figure out what pistons are in it, cc's and such, is it stock deck height? How thick of a head gasket are you gonna run.. how many cc's are the heads your using?

 

if your worried about mileage and all out ***** an LS swap may be in the cards. I understand that this may be a bit costly but either way good luck with ur build

 

Judging by what he's using so far I'm guessing hes trying to keep it low budget. Yes he could swap a bone stock LS1 in and be well above his power goal and get the fuel mileage hes looking for, but the cost compared to building a gen 1 sbc is a high

 

right... this is the exact reason i'm building a gen 1 small block, I assumed this was his first engine build because of his age, but he informed us that he had a near 500 horse, 490 ft/lb .... and if you can do that at 16 (sorry if your not firebird dave... just read ur profile) then component matching for 300 horsepower and 15-20mpg should be a piece of cake.

 

true it sounds like the kinda mcdonalds parking lot monkey spank stuff you hear back in highschool... but hey I'm guessing that's probably true but I'll give everyone the benefit of the doubt, if he really did build that engine before all those years ago he's probably a tad older than 16.

 

lol yeah or his dad's last name ends in "yunick" ... but i remember how I was when I was 16... and hey if he's at least turning a wrench and not driving a civic he's already light years ahead of the rest of the guys his age

 

Well lets just clear it up a bit when i say computer i do mean the ecu, the truck had 3 wires to it starter, altenator, and distributor. And now i have around......alot, definately my fair share and i have a friend helping me, but it is still alot. and i built that truck when i was around 14(winter break of Freshmen year of highschool. Now im a Junior and seem to help all of my friends with their cars. But im Not that much of a electrical kinda guy. So i am getting help with those and im asking what about a combo that seems very solid with minor work. And i was just asking what power i could be making. And i based the carb on gas mileage i am goin to keep with i may get a 750fm though not too sure.

 

you can get pretty good gas mileage with a 750 vs carb.. will this be mated to a auto or manual trans? If you're going stick a 650 dp would work well..As far as the wiring stuff, if you're running it the way you are describing the computer can be removed if you'd like since it will have no purpose anymore.. just run a non-cc vac advance dist and non-cc carb. If it's an automatic car all you need to worry about is wiring up something to lock the torque converter, you could use a simple toggle switch and just lock it up on the highway or you can get a kit to do it for you.. like this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku I'd recommend simply zip tying and tucking the extra wires behind the intake out of sight on top of where the bellhousing mates up instead of hacking the harness up, that way should you ever want to put it back to stock they're already there and waiting.

 

alright man i hear ya... by the way i wasnt taking a shot at you or anything.. but not to whorre 89rs, is it true that if i dont add on the addition of the electric lock up kit all that will happen is i'll lose a few mpgs? i'm doing a similar swap, carb v8 no more comp

 

Well im running a Non-Ecu Vacuum Advance distributor. Now the carb is alot less than the LG4 But it still has the electric choke, and fast idle solenoid. And thats it. But today i got the exhaust bolted back up. And we might be making a switch panel for the engine(fan, electric stuff, maybe ignition). But right now we are just trying to get it running, so i can drive to school for a while till i get another vehicle maybe a 4.3l V6 S-10, or sumthing with alil bit of get up and go. But I was going to run A Holley 750 CFM Carb Street. But i was think for like 10mins today and i was thinking was if i ran a Holley Stealth Ram Air Fuel Injection System. But if i can get it to the point where i really dont need any wiring then i could get a painless kit or something if i do need wiring i can always go that way.




But i Have a Question, what wires control my power windows and stereo system? I heard it was the Ignition Module that did it all but i Thought that is pretty far fetched.

 

what carb are you currently running, kinda lost me with ur last post.. As far as wiring for a holley or the like with an electric choke all you need is a constant 12v source with the igniton on and a ground.
Not sure about the window wiring without a diagram in front of me but it is defently wired through the body harness and has nothing to do with the ignition module. Are you having problems with both? One common circuit off the top of my head is the accessory circuit, check the fuse and go from there.. As far as the HSR I believe that you can get either run it with the stand alone ecm and harness from holley or with a tpi ecm and harness with a custom prom. You would simply remove the engine harness you now have and replace it.
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yes, but it's as simple as wiring in a switch, no real reason not to do it you can just splice it off the wires that are already there.

 

alright thanks a lot man

 

Im running a Q-Jet, and thats what im running right now.