Machine shop trouble…
Machine shop trouble…
I have a 1987 Camaro and recently rebuilt the stock 305 about six months ago. I took my pistons to a machine shop to have the wrist pins pressed into my connecting rods. The car ran great for a few months and started burning more and more oil. Finally I’m burning around 3 quarts a week (150 miles) so I tear it down to see what I did wrong. (first rebuild) Turns out the wrist pins slid out and scored the cylinder walls. I don’t think I can re-sleeve this one. So I went back to the guy who did it and he told me I could have a block he had. He said it was a 305 but I’m not completely sure it is… it was pretty dirty but I could make out the last four casting numbers: 0010. is it a 305? He also told me it was a four bolt main… after the kinda work he did on my pistons, im not sure I can trust his knowledge. Can anyone help?






Re: Machine shop trouble…
Cut your losses and RUN!
I would not consider taking a block from this guy that is probably cracked.
I would:
1 Demand refund for all labor.
2 Demand payment for damaged parts
3 Demand payment for your labor
4 Make a case with the BBB (Minimum)
5 Make a case with a lawyer for negligence (Maximum)
This is all well within your rights and reasonable.
I would not consider taking a block from this guy that is probably cracked.
I would:
1 Demand refund for all labor.
2 Demand payment for damaged parts
3 Demand payment for your labor
4 Make a case with the BBB (Minimum)
5 Make a case with a lawyer for negligence (Maximum)
This is all well within your rights and reasonable.
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 640
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From: Northern California
Car: 1985 California Iroc
Engine: HSR ZZ4 0411 swapped
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Machine shop trouble…
have the machine shop compinsate you for there F*%# up. its not your fault there employee is a TOOL!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: Machine shop trouble…
I took my pistons to a machine shop to have the wrist pins pressed into my connecting rods.
You do not press the pins onto the rods. The rods small end is heated real hot with a flame making the hole expand. The pin slides right in the hot rod end without pressure.
When the rod cools the pin is tight in the small end hole.
Look at the small end of your rods. You should be able to see the discoloration from the heating. If not, they f****ed up your rods.
If thats the case, they have no clue. Cut your losses and take you business elsewhere.
A 010 block is a 350 block. Sounds like you're dealing with clowns.
Find another shop and start over. Find another (running) 305 or 350 to rebuild.
You do not press the pins onto the rods. The rods small end is heated real hot with a flame making the hole expand. The pin slides right in the hot rod end without pressure.
When the rod cools the pin is tight in the small end hole.
Look at the small end of your rods. You should be able to see the discoloration from the heating. If not, they f****ed up your rods.
If thats the case, they have no clue. Cut your losses and take you business elsewhere.
A 010 block is a 350 block. Sounds like you're dealing with clowns.
Find another shop and start over. Find another (running) 305 or 350 to rebuild.
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Re: Machine shop trouble…
There are actually a few ways to do a "bushed" or "press in" wrist pin. Heating as you say is one way of doing it though by far not my favorite. To do it PROPERLY you would set the wrist pin in dry ice and let it shrink until it is able to slide into the piston. Using heat on the rods is anoter way of doing it and I contest that it weakens rods (You really have to heat them up!) others would say the rods see lots of heat anyway, I would say its not the same at all... And so on, but the manufacturers (IE GM, Ford, and so on) use cold to shrink the wrist pin as well as valve guides and seats and so forth.
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