hey just spent past hour reading this great job man. im thinking bout swaping out my 305 TBI for a 350

 

Thanks man,
I used to enjoy this, now it's just work lol. Hey guys I was thinking, could this be any result of removing all my pollution control, also I have all my vaccum lines blocked on my carb, and my carbon canister is off, and the hard line has a vaccum block on it as well (only temproary). Could any of this have any affect on why I'm not getting spark, I wonder if the car ran because it hadn't got bad readings due to no pollution control, then coded and now won't allow for spark?

Is any of this have any validity? Thanks, DacMan

 

not sure about that. I would go for a pick up and distributor. At least that will clear up a lot of possibilities and it will most likely solve your problem.

 

I went ahead and unhooked the battery, just in case, to see if it will run when reset, any ideas on how long it has to be uhooked for?

 

Should be good by now aha

 

Yeah she oughta be ready by tonight when I get home lol.

 

Hey check these out, this is ruff, but it's what I was able to get my buddy to do.

 

Here's some more in "primer"

 

and one more

 

I like the green. Is that your car dac?

 

I WISH!!! That's Rocy'd's car, and it's so sweet, props Rocky'd. I like the red and green. I always wanted to do a medium green 3rd gen like that, mainly because I've never seen one. The problem is to achieve that green and red would probably require and expensive paint, maybe even a candy, the way we got the paint to change from it's orginal blue was to alter all the blues in the picture which is why the sidewalk in front is tinted the color of whatever the car is, in reality there is a blue basecoat under the existing paint, so the colors there are in a way candies (even though the under base cote isn't silve, gold, or white). If money weren't an issue I'd buy some house of kolor and do a sweet red with silver hockey stripe. But I can't afford it. I will likely end up doing my camaro in grey primer with matte black hockey stripes because that's the best I can do for now. I just don't have much money, and can't find a job. Still looking though so who knows.

 

So I did get a little done today, I took the gauge needles off the cluster Luke sold me and put the needls on my original gauges, they don't fit perfectly but they do look a lot better in my opinion, the first pic is of the white orginal and original painted orange (yuck!!!) and the one's Luke sold me, the third is another. I know you guys are probably wondering what about calibrating the gauges dac? Well some of my gauges didn't even work right, but they all went to zero when the car was shut off, so I'll wait till I have the cluster installd, I'll start the car, then shut it off, and put all my needles on facing zero. The other pics are of a budget project I finished today, I had an old Winchester model 12 waiting for a face lift, so I polished the reciever and cold blued the rest (remember this was budget) and also refinished the stock. Looks pretty good if you ask me, this will undoubtably be my car gun, it's not worth a lot so it's a perfect canidate, plus it looks pretty bad ***.

 

Here's one more.

 

Sweet. When I do an engine swap I plan on getting a new cluster. That shotgun looks nice.

 

NEW NEWS!!!
I went out today after school to work on my car a little more because I got home early. I had my brother around so while he turned the engine over I got an official reading of 9 volts off the carbon button. I belive that's completely correct, now here's the confusing part, I then installed the dist. cap and turned the engine over and got now volts at the spark plug wire posts. Thus my thought is that I have pin-pointed the problem to the rotor or cap right? PLEASE MARK, FIVE7Kid, LUKE, AWSOME-X, anyone who knows anything please let me know, because I think it's completly figured out, once I get a new cap and rotor right? Sorry if I'm coming on a little strong but if I get this fixed I may be able to sleep for the first time in a long time lol.

Thanks, Dac

 

Hook up those spark plug wires now and see if it runs.

 

It won't I don't have any spark, and I don't have a new rotor or cap yet. I wish I did lol.

 

 

Lets hope it does anyways

 

I know I could not possibly be more freaken ready to get past this point and start moving FORWARD! lol. I checked and it's 15 bucks for a new rotor and cap, not bad at all so I'll get that done this weekend.

 

Sounds good Dac

 

Man, I've been trying to follow along and you've had some fun issues... ahem...

Good luck with the new rotor and cap.

We both may have running motors by the end of the weekend!

 

Congrats pheonix on that, hope you get it running, yeah I've felt bad for the three or four pages of dialouge about some of the most boring trouble shooting ever. But hopefully that will come to an end soon!

 

Ok so bad news, or confusing at least. I bought a new rotor and cap, and no luck, so I ran a hot wire to the power spade and nothing at all, so in thinking that the transition of my coil from cap to new cap could have had somthing go wrong, so I checked my carbon button, and it does have volts there, I know that you said all that shows is electricity present but that's all I needed to know I think, So in conclusion I have power at the coil, and now excuse for a bad cap, rotor, coil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, carbon button, or ignition module, because they're all new. So in light of that I have decided that it must be a ground issue right? I'm going to simply ground the ground spade and see what happens.

 

grounding the ground spade did not work.

 

Thats frustrating.

 

I know, at this point I'm kinda numb to failure on this subject, lol. I just want it fixed. Could anyone tell me exactly what a pick-up coil does?

 

It senses the rotation of the distributor and sends the signal to the module to tell the coil to spark.

I have heard of reluctors (the part on the distributor shaft with the tabs that rotates within the pick-up coil) losing their magnetism, which means the pick-up coil doesn't know the engine is turning.

 

Ok I see, thanks for the response, now please bear with me hear, if it senses rotation and all and then tells the coil to spark, shouldn't I be getting no volts at the carbon button if my pick-up coil is bad? Or should I be getting more than 8-9 volts at the carbon button, and be seeing a consistance jump of volts, or flicker if you will to indicate the coil sending spark?

Thanks, DacMan

 

As a wise man once said:

You shouldn't get any voltage at the carbon button until the coil is "fired", and then it should be a lot more than 9 volts.

 

I don't have much time, I'm late already for somthing, but wanted to tell everyone that tomarrow will undoubtably be the day that I get her running. So thanks for all the help so far, and wish me luck for tomarrow lol.

 

hey dac man if i was you but im not i would had found floor pans from a junk yard and cut them out and welded them in instead but hey ok the welder was hard because you heat and speed was not set properlythe heat needs to be hot enough not to burn through then adjust your speed until you here that sweet perfect buzz sound take some of you scrap clamp it togeather set the heat then turn down the wire feed dial low and turn up while you weld until its weld smoth wire welders work great for many thingswhen it comes to cars p.s. what year is your emgine? if it came out of a truck it should be a 4 bolt main engine be careful putting in a cam and such due to the wear and tear on the engine you may put more stress on it then it can take and blow it up you should maybe find a intake and carb for your motor it looks like mid to late 70's motor with alot of stuff that will hinder motor performance want to talk you can e me @ steven.tuck33@yahoo.com running out of room just call me sir lots to say lol lol later i m building a 86 firebird v-6 swappimg a 350 4 bolt 1975 truck enginewith 4 barrel i had a 4 barrel like yours and never was right because of all the emission stuff on it so i went edelbrock intake and carb then it was all good go to www.craigslist .com look there for any parts you need see ya

 

Alright so here's the story, I can hopefully get it running today, there is a plastic "box" labeled p.e.d. that hooks two of the pins from the ignition module, it basically is a box that holds the wiring for ground, and the other two wires that hook up behind the tach and bat spades, well yestereday when I went to put a new pick-up coil I noticed that the box was lifting from it's lower part (it's a two peice plastic box) and so I tried to snap it back on to it's base, when I did it split, (old brittle plastic) what I found when I took off the top plastic peice was that the two spades I was talking about above were ontop of a plastic sperator that keep the ports from the top plastic part. So apparently when I installed the new ignition module it slipped between the top plastic peice and this bar seperator, so I was getting any connection. lol. so stupid, but practically undetectable becuase I couldn't possible tell what was going on.

 

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd like to thank my Mark, Five7Kid, Luke, AwsomeX, My good friends at NAPA, my Mama, my Daddy, Everyone who believed in me. In all seriousness SHE RUNS!!!! So thanks everyone, that slump I call the worst two months ever is over, now lets get back to some topics that are remotely interesting.



Thanks, DacMan

 

So it might have been a little arrogant to say we're completly out of the woods, but were way better off than before, she's running now, but she runs just like she's got a super high lift cam, and really high compression. So I assumed it must be timing but I don't think it is, because when I turn the dist. nothing really smooths out, I can get way out of timing and it'll stop runnig, but other than that, it's not really affecting it too much. I put the piston aroudn tdc, maybe not perfect because I was using a screw driver to feel it, but around there and then pointed my rotor at 7 and dropped it in. It pointed right at the third post that comes after the tac bat spades. Any ideas, I'll try to get her sorrted out soon, but seems like I'm not firing on all cylinders.

 

It's running too rich is my problem, I checked the passenger side bank, I'll check the drivers side bank next. I'll get it!

 

If not timing it might be the spark plug wires are mixed up.
P.S Good to hear that you found the problem. I was feeling your pain.

 

I appreciate it Mark it's been a long troubleshoot, so here's the update, I've retimed the thing 5 times now and still she runs rough, backfires through the intake, and coughs black smoke (running too rich). I don't know what to do becuase I checked spark on all cylinders and it's perfect. I measeured to tdc every time I re-timed, and pointed the rotor at the 7th cylinder so it ended up pointing at the #1 spark plug post. It's no 180 off either becuase it runs. For a while it ran rough but ran, and now it only runs if I yank the throttle wide open. And then when it does run it's really rough. Any ideas, I though maybe the fuel pump, but it's new, and that doesn't really explain the backfireing or running rich.


Thanks, DacMan

 

Could it be that my 02 sensor is bad, this thing sounds like a lawn mower

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...nning-way.html

two good posts there

 

Thanks, I actually already read that post. I'm thinking now it's my timing, I've been setting my rotor at cylinder 1 so that it sparks at exactly tdc, instead of the coorect 10 degress advance I belive.

 

Go buy or borrow a timing light if you dont have one. You will need it anyway

 

Ohh I have one, I call it "White Lightining" (and not the kind George Jones sings about lol). It's an old sears penskee gun, I'll get a pic of it when I finally get going.

 

Sounds good

 

Ok, so I tried retiming the engine with cylinder one firing at 10 degrees retarded. No dice. At this point I'm convinced that the problem is elsewhere that timing, howerver I may be wrong. I'm scarred to run her because it sounds like I'm gonna throw a rod it's running so dang hard. In starting the resolution I am thinking that the reason she ran well before was because the computer might have taken a while to figure out that I got rid of so much crap, and havn't hooked up a few things, one pecie I have no clue what it does is this... (pictured below) It was hooked up at one time, however it isn't any longer and I have no clue what to hook it up to or what it does, it came off the carb. It sits right behind the throttle lever. The numbers off it are 71056. I have tried to look it up on google and got nothing.

Here's the pics:

 

A guy from another forum told me to put a timing light on my camaro and see if the timing mark moved back and forth eractically because I might have a loose timing chain. Well I did and it did. It was moving about a half inch back and forth. I had my distributor in the sam place the hole time.


Any Thoughts, DacMan

 

That's the throttle kicker solenoid. For air conditioning, and a small effect on emissions. It won't make the car run rough, though.

10 degrees retarded will make the engine run horrible. 10 degrees advanced is what you're looking for.

Timing jumping around can be a sloppy timing chain, or a sloppy distributor. This is computer controlled, right? Are you checking the timing with the distributor disconnected from the computer?

The computer needs the input from the distributor, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, BAR pressure sensor, O2 sensor, and coolant temp sensor. It expects to see a load on the EGR solenoid.

 

post pic of carb i think the carb is a emission control carb then you took of alot of that stuff or all post pic and try to find a carb you can borrow to see if that helps sketter

 

I have a strong feeling that my 02 sensor is bad due to the fact that I painted it with header paint no knowing what I was doing. My coolent temp sensor is brand new. I am currently researching where and what and how to test my MAP BAR and Throttle position sensor. Thanks Five7Kid, very helpful post.

Thanks, DacMan

 

Ohhh and I forgot to mention that my "Timing Tab" (the one with numbers 0-12) only gives me numbers in one direction, the other way is not an option, so I assumed I was going the right way, I guess it must have been advanced. When I'm standing in front of the car the numbers run to the left side which makes sense for advanced. But it sounds like it's firing just as hard as if it were retarded 10 degrees, each firing is like a painful blast.