since its carborated you should try pumping the gas about 25 times then hold it about 1/4 throttle and turn it over.

there is a post on the previous page at the bottom. Make sure you read that one

 

If I understand you correctly you are saying that my relay clicking due to poorly tightened cables... deffinatly possible, I've been messing with my cables a lot lately. However, my next question would be why did it start then when the cables were hooked up wrong, and won't now that they are?

Thanks, DacMan

 

Just noticed we got to page nine, 25 times would flood the **** out of my car, 3 is plenty and somtimes too much from my experience, however I think you may be on to somthing with the cables, just confused like I said in the post above.

 

Ok further research has revealed that in my opinion the fuel pump relay is shot. I probably need a new one, because I don't here the fuel pump buzzing before start up, so now I understand by the whole pump the pedal 25 times, you're basically telling me to bypas what the fuel pump relay does, I will try that tomarrow and see if I have any success.

 

You might have disconnected a wire by accident when you where doing "wire management" back on page 8 right after you got it running. This might be the problem.

You also said you corrected the wiring and now it doesn't run. What did you change from before when it was running. That setup might have been correct.

Also try tightening the battery wires

 

There might be a wire hooked up incorrectly which is not activating your fuel pump. And sometimes the fuel pump doesnt come on every time you turn the key.

 

I see, but after I did all the wire managment I started the engine numerous times and it started perfectly every time... Hey p.s. it may be easier if we just use this as an instant message board. I'll be waiting on your next post so I can reply right back

 

Hmm.. did you change any wires since the last time the car ran?

 

No, that's the thing that's so weird

 

Yeah.. I shoulda thought of this a while ago lol. Pull a plug wire and stick a screw driver in there and ground it to the block. turn the car over and look for spark.. this is easier with 2 people

 

lol, yeah I thought about doing that, I need to try tomarrow. I smeel gas and when I flip the throttle on the carb gas purges.

 

Its gotta be spark then. try the spark test tomorrow. check those wires connected to the distributor again too.

 

Ladies and gentlemen guess who doesn't have spark... DAC!!! GRRRREAT! huhhhh.

 

So you checked it? and the distrib wires,.. the ones that we talked about b4 are connected tight?

it can only be a few things dac. not a big deal

 

Real tight, I checked em.

 

I'll do some research. Do you have an ohm meter?

 

Uhhh maybe I have an electrical tester but I'm terrible at getting redings with it. I'll do some research as well, and we can "colaborate" on our findings tomarow lol.

Thanks Man, Dac

 

Sounds good man

 

Hey dac, I just remembered that all the info for testing the coil, pickup coil, and ignition module and distributor is in the haynes manual. All you need is a volt meter / ohm meter.

before you do that, check and tighten all the wires on the coil, pick up, and distributor. Test for 12 volts on the wire terminal labeled "batt" on the distributor with the ignition in run position.

 

heres a wiring diagram for your engine

 

Well here's the bad bad news, I'm getting 12.66 volts to the coil, so it's either my coil going bad or my points, and I just sanded my contact points in the distributor cap and rotor.

 

It could also easily be the ignition module. And the coil could still be bad even if its getting the correct power. you gotta pick up a multimeter that reads ohms. Then look in your haynes how to test it.

 

Hey mark I figured out what is wrong with my car. Well not me Luke helped as well as another very helpful NAPA employee who's name will remain unmentioned. My crack team of mechanic geniouses figured out that I didn't have a spade for my negative port on my rotor, I don't know how it ran without one so it must have burnt up, anyway I got a new ground strap on order and it should be in tomarrow so HURRAY!!!

 

Awesome man. Your lucky those guys helped or it might have been impossible to find out whats wrong.. without bringing it in. Take a video of it running and post it on youtube and posta link on here

 

Yeah I am lucky I have good knowlagable people willing to have mercy on my ignorance lol. Thanks BTW Luke. I want to but I don't have a digital recorder, you'll just have to meet me at a show some time this spring. What state do you live in?

 

Ok,
Today I got some work done, I took pretty much the hole day getting my drivers seat installed just were I wanted it. If you notice it's the passenger seat. I don't know if it's because I put in larger steel boxing, or somthing but when I put in my original drivers seat in I couldn't grab the lever to move my seat back or forth without hitting my knuckles on the seat belt "box", so since my passenger seat was in good shap anyway I decided to use it as my driver seat. Anyway the first pis is all the cutting and welding I did today, It wouldn't have taken but 30 minutes if I had a plasma gun or somthing that would cut this steel farter but I'm using a 15 gallon aircompressor and a cutoff wheel so I waited a lot on the air compressor. I did enjoy the welding though . Anyway the second is my seat installed, It's not bolted down yet because I still have some unfinished buisness under it but i sat in it and it and shut the door and it fits me perfectly! The third pic is just one of my four cutting and moutning spots I did today, I don't know what that bolt is doing in the rail, but I'll move it later. lol.

 

This next post is about somthing that's been working around in my mind for a long time, I think it's a custom touch that will really set this car off. When I bought the car it had this fiberglass hood with indents for blisters or louvers, however instead of those two it had thes weird black plates that went over the end part that "ramps" upwards before the hood goes back to a normal plane. Anyway I'm not claiming these black plates are rare or anything but I've never seen another third gen with any, if anyone has any info on them I'd love to know if they were factory or what? My first part to this peticular project was stripping the layers of gummy paint off, I noticed it was gummy when it killed some 80 grit in about 3 seconds lol. So I just decided to use some paint stripped, then once I got the paint stripped I noticed the steel was finely grooved so I sanded past it and smoothed the steel. The second pic is just that, The third pic is my plans for this plate, I'm going to take both of them, drill holes in the locations marked by the sqares in the pic, then I'm going to sand it to 1500 and polish it, cut out the back plates that supported these plastes leaving a tab to bolt the plates to, then I'll have a cold air supply, following that I plan on making a fiberglass bowl type deal that will fit ontop of the carb and seal around the hood when the hood is down, hopefully this will give me an air tight seal and fresh supply of cold air

 

Here is my hood. It's got the same hood as yours. On the inside of my hood it said 86 Camaro on it if I can remember correctly.

 

I forgot to answer your question, but I live in a province actually .. In Ontario Canada. I'm planning on going to this years third gen fest on may 29th in Illinois.

p.s what show are you planning on going to??

 

I might be eh? lol. JK don't take offense, I want to, seems like we might be able to talk Intrepid and Luke into going as well. If not maybe you could drop by indiana and we could all meet somwhere.

 

Yeah sounds good. I hope my engine doesn't die when im out of town aha.. That would be bad

 

Yeah that would be bad, you'd have to come over to my place and we'd go find a 350 to drop in instead lol.

 

In that case I might just forget to tighten my oil pan drain plug before I leave home. aha jk

 

lol.

 

Damn still no spark, ohh well. I'll figure it out, just need some time.

 

Did the resistance test and found that I have 13.8 ohms on the secondary to ground test, 0 ohms on the secondary and tach test, and 0 on the tac bat test. According to my haynes my coil should be good... I think.

 

You dont have spark?? I though that luke helped you get it running?

 

You might have to make another visit to see luke then. What I mean is that you should take your ignition module off the distributor and bring it to napa to be tested. One thing though that I heard is you cant touch the underside of the ignition module because it will destroy it and you need to put a certain lube on it on reinstallation or it will burn up.

 

I took it to napa and that's were luke and the other feller work, they thought they found my problem, either way I'm glad I bought the part I did because I think I needed it, napa doesn't test ignition modules, so I'm kinda stuck, I touched the underderside, are you talking about the secondary? If so that may be why it doesn't work cause I did touch it.

 

This is the ignition module. On my car its under the distributor cap, on the base of the dist.

you can see in the pic that it has the lube you need

 

ok, yeah I havn't touched any of that ****, just the rotor cap and coil. I decided I'm going to just take my extra coil off my accel coil and put it on and see what happens. Wish me luck lol.

 

well through some of the most irretating time consuming tedious testing, I have officially discovered that is must be my ignition module. Now I gotta buy one.

 

Jeez, just got off the phone with napa 29 bucks for a cheap 7-pin module and 69 for a nice one. I can buy an accel distributor for 75 bucks complete, so that's what I'll probably do.

 

Sounds good. It could also be other small problems with the distributor so getting a new aftermarket one is a good idea.

Its recommended to replace that stuff anyway, for fuel economy and reliability.

 

Well I did some research and I must have missed the one because they're about 175. uhhh. Ohh well, I found a 7-pin connector for 20 bucks at autozone, so that's probably what I'll do, I don't know if I told you or not, but I might be getting a 350 ci with a 350 turbo trans for free, and it ran when pulled!

 

57kid: i really like you posts, so to the point and informative.

 

You can also go to the scrap yard and pick up a whole distributor. I payed $20 Canadian for one in nice shape. Works good too.

And thats awesome you might be getting a 350 with tranny. I hope I am in indiana when you are working on that / putting it in.

 

I hope so too, because I can alway use an extra set of hands, and if I do get it, and timing is right, maybe you'll be there when I start it for the first time in a long time.

 

That would be awesome! I've been wanting to figure out how to rebuild an engine for a long time. And to hear it start would be better than I could describe

 

Yeah I figure if if I had all the parts layed out and you got to my house super early, and I already had all my engine compartent ready we could put the thing together in about 2 hours, then install it in maybe 1 hour, trouble shoot for why it wouldn't start in a few hours, and then run it! But it's still a very small chance I'll get it so, I can still dream right? lol.