UpDate:just got the last of the cash together to get my all new Spohn Front End!! Talk about a rush to get this thing done intime for Summer!!

K Member
Tube A arms
Coil Overs.
all new front end parts, TRW to be Gold Zink Plated!

 

Im not trying to Offend anyone, It looks like a nice piece dont get me wrong. I work for probaly one of the best machine shops in western canada, So to say I dream is a little ignorent, considering i Just got the block to build my own 427. The difference being, I do the work myself from block prep, to balancing to assembling. To me if your are to lazy to take 5 minutes to mask off an engine to paint it, What does that say about the attention to detail when it comes to say perhaps doing bearing clearances, or balancing, Or the clearances on the pin bores? It looks like very high quality piece, But In the shop i work, if we let a engine out looking like that after we painted it, we would be shot. Got any shots of the K-member? Ive been patiently waiting for the UMI, but it seems it may take forever, and have been looking at possibly getting a Spohn.

 

The eng is to My specs:
Look, to knock somthing,..and thats what your doing. Knocking it,
then feel free,
But stop with the, Im not trying to Offend anyone..lol

This eng was shot with red before the last wipe down and assembling, so whats your point? so you see some overspry on the pan rail??& from a pan covering the bottom end?? OMFG!..lol, whos being "ignorent"

Whats nexed?...is red Ok?? or would your shop shoot um for that too..lol

With that Aside..

picked it up from ebay (K member) $465 Shipped saved $180
then saved $60 on the $861 in the rest of the front end parts
pro drag coil over set.
And tube A arms

Photo / Link (k Member)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

 

That is an excellent price for an assembled short block. I've been shopping around (extensively) for a replacement 350/372/383 short block and your price is the best I've seen so far. Once you add the costs of a forged crank and h-beam rods upgrades, the extras dollars pile up pretty fast.
Your block casting appears similar to the Dart piece especially when you make reference to the .300" taller roller lifter(w/ tie bar) that's needed. Same spec for the Dart. (That adds another 500 bucks to the build along with shorter pushrods. More $)
What concerned me about the Dart is some of the outsourcing they use for their internals. I was a little surprised to see a link to Scat crankshafts on their web site.
I'm curious to know what the parts list is inside the Wheeler short block.
And 427 on the cowl would be very cool. Unless of course you don't like to advertise!

 

longer lifters should not need shorter Pushrods,
it's only the Lifter body thats longer, the inside push rod cup sits in the same spot has all the other lifters, jsut so ya know.

• New Wheeler Pro Series casting
  
• Block is precision machined on our 4-axis CNC equipment
• Cylinders are finish honed with Sunnen CV 616 & torque plates with 820 Sunnen stones
• Mains are line bored on our Winona Van Norman line boring equipment
• Mains are finish honed on Sunnen CH100 Line Hone
• 4.185” bore capable
• Siamese cylinders (no water jacket between cylinders, larger bore capability, increased rigidity and strength)
• 4-Bolt billet mains front to rear, center (3) caps splayed
• ARP main studs
• Available with optional bronze lifter bore bushings
• Available with O-ringed deck
• Dedicated main oiling
• 9.015” deck height
• Main bore diameters are standard 350 SBC
• 1.9995” - 2.0005” cam bores
• Requires .300” tall lifters for roller applications
• Extra thick pan rail
• 2-piece rear main seal
• Accessory kit installed including: cam bearings, oil valley screen kit, brass freeze plugs, and all necessary dowels
• Optional oil restrictors are also included
  
• Dry sump scavenge and pressure provisions provided
• Factory left hand dipstick, block has provision to be drilled for right hand dipstick
  
• Weighs 190 pounds ready to assemble

I Looked for a few months. and looked at feed back from Guys who had used eng from alot of Diff places.
with all the work done and forged parts, i could not beat the price wheeler had, there price is up now by $1000 bucks.
but getting a eng with all forged parts set up at 12.1 with NOS for
$3000 is nothing, they are starting to make a name for there self. Im not the first to beat on there stuff,

Just shop around do the foot work, and check things out.
Yes the Block is Trick. looking forward to the install!

What i Have
Specification Overview

4.125” Bore x 4.00” Stroke x 6.00” Rod
Operating Range 1,500 - 7,000 – Max HP 725

BASIC SHORT BLOCK
BLOCK

• Fully Blueprinted Wheeler Pro Race Block, Billet Main Caps (All 5 - Center 3 Are Splayed), ARP Main Studs
• New Dowels, Galley Plugs, 1-Piece Cam Bearings, and Brass Freeze Plugs

BALANCED ROTATING ASSEMBLY

• Wheeler Forged 4340 Connecting Rods With ARP Bolts/Capscrews
• Hastings Moly Rings With Standard Tension Oil Ring
• Forged 2-Valve Relief Flat Top, Dish or Dome (.180) Pistons With Floating Pin
• Tri-Metal Full Chamfered Race Rod And Main Bearings
• Internally Balanced, Forged, Wheeler 4340 Crankshaft

ASSEMBLY

• Complete Assembly Of Short Block, Clearanced, Inspected And Detailed

COMPLETE SHORT BLOCK
The Complete Short Block includes the Short Block above withthe addition & installation of the following components:

• Camshaft, Degreed & Installed With Cam Button And Retainer Plate
• Pete Jackson Gear Drive Timing Set With Torrington Bearing
• Timing Cover, Gasket & Seal
• Melling Oil Pump
• Melling Hardened Oil Pump Drive Rod
• Milodon Bolt On Pick-Up Tube Installed And Clearanced
• Milodon Race Oil Pan (Depending On Application)
• 1-Piece Oil pan Gasket
• Wheeler SFI Harmonic Balancer & Bolt
• Wheeler SFI Flexplate
• New Fasteners Throughout
• Oil Filter Adapter & Oil Filter

 

[QUOTE=articwhiteZ;4514331]longer lifters should not need shorter Pushrods,
it's only the Lifter body thats longer, the inside push rod cup sits in the same spot has all the other lifters, jsut so ya know.
QUOTE]

Thanks for that. I haven't gone that deep into my build. That was just an assumption on my part.
Are you able to use the OEM lifter configuration with your block? That is an OEM lifter and "spider" retainer (no tie bars). I know the Dart block has retainer bolt bosses cast in.

 

Dont need to Use any GM parts.

im using a Mech roller set up anyway,

the big thing to remember is with a 4" stoke you aftermarket Oil pan comes into play. to clear a 4" stoke and steel rods.

years down the road up grading to more cid (434/440/454) is just a over bore away..lol

 

It wasn't a question of "do you" but rather "can you" use OEM components in your block? I have an inexpensive source for stock type hydraulic rollers which I could use with my Comp XR rather than fork out an additional 500 bucks for aftermarket pieces.

 

Not sure? iv never done a Hydlc roller cam before, just the Mech roller ones.

 

Mechanical Rollers are alot more Fun, I was planning on one in my current 383, but with the stud mount rockers and being a DD i was worried about maintenance, setting valves etc. With the 427 im going with T&D shaft rockers, so hopefully it wont be a big issue to run a solid roller. Have you decided on cam specs yet???

 

Hey Bro, looking really good. You actual built my dream motor. As soon as my 383 goes, a 427 will be in the works for sure. Good luck!!

 

with the Cam specs
the mech roller i have been using in the old 383 was
236/240 @.50 570/590 Lift 112 LC

may go with a new one

336/242 @.50 602/608 Lift 112 LC

after all it's just a street car.... Named Desire

 

this eng is now up for sale.(cheap).never been started...

 

Define cheap, In a PM if you want. I'm just poking around right now so not 100% serious yet.

 

$ its under $5500 cheap!! AND that's from the pan to the TB..