Well the time has come to start pulling the 2.8.

I've got the AC hoses disconnected and the condensing coils,and rad out.
But i'm not sure what else. Were going for a plain, 350, alt, power steering, and thats it.
What alll can be removed from the engine bay? We dont wanna pull out wiring that we need, and is going to take out headlights and whatnot.

Thanks,
Scott

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...swap-read.html

here the link i just started doing the same thing 3 months ago, and hiccup i had i did a search here , and is the search for what i am looking for didint answer it i went and posted here. this site is a godsend of knowledge and id still be lost without it.

 

electrical if your going carbed, remove the wire set thats on the passenger side , thats for the epa and injectors and the sensors related to it all and removal instruction are posted on the site. like search carb swap

 

I read throught this and it didn't say, will the v6 fuel pump be sufficent if going to a 350 tpi?

 

i would think it wouldnt work , but from what i read on the link if your doing a v-6 to v8 swap your going to need a donor v-8 wiring harness

 

I've read through it plently of times, i was really looking for some specific people who've done it who had the crash course on it.
I'm going from a carb'd 2.8 to a carbed, non emissions 350 so i dont have all that injector wiring, just curious on what can be pulled and not take out my body electrics.

 

I belive i'm doing external electic fuel pump, but i'm pretty sure that you'll need the tpi fuel pump, and regulator.

 

remove all the injector wiring on the passengers side, i just did a swap like this with my 283,, takes about 30 minutes at most to remove it. your going to need a regulator for your fuel line to the carb, your tach and fuel gauge wont work after you pull the wiring out so your going to have to hook those up to a switched power source, i believe you removed your ac and heater core, make its alot easier to work on the car and you can use that as a switched power source.

 

I have a V6, and its a Sports Coupe, so it didnt have a tach

 

True.
Not true. The tach and fuel gauge don't go through the ECM wiring (the stuff you're removing from the passenger side). However, the tach won't read right because it's calibrated for a V6.

All of the wiring you'll need for a non-computer V8 carb swap comes from the firewall on the driver side (except torque converter clutch lock-up, if you use an automatic transmission with lock-up torque converter).

 

Alright thanks on the wiring. Thats what i needed to know.

I'm going with a custom dash panel and tach so i'll be wiring to the coil like normal.
Also, its getting a 700r4 with a stall.


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7948921_n.jpg

Another thing... the dryer, how does that come off?

 

So did I, for my LS1 swap. You can use the factory wires for engine temp (I did), tach (I didn't because the LS1 source for tach signal came into the passenger compartment in my case), and oil pressure (again I didn't, because my oil pressure gauge is mechanical).



Then you'll need to do something about the torque converter lock-up circuit.


It unscrews from the lines going to the back of it. You can see the taped-over fittings in the upper left of this photo:

 

ah this is the great info i'm looking for.
Thanks!

Is there even a tach wire in a V6 sports coupe car?

 

I'll have to admit I didn't think of that. My V6 car had a tach, but not all did. If yours didn't, then it probably doesn't have the tach wire. Only way to know is to look for it.

My V6 to V8 swap included a donor car. I transferred all of the V8 wiring over, including the ECM and dash harnesses, so I didn't even think about a lot of these things.

 

I got the 700r4 out today, and got the dryer out underhood. Also got 3 of the 4 exhaust bolts snapped off, but cant get to the last one with enough room to ratchet snap it off, so its on to the sawzall tommorow to drop the rest of the V6 Exhaust

I'm not too worried about the tach, i can run wires, i'm pretty good with electronics. I've run a tach before, and other gauges, along with my own car audio systems and others, and i'm about to break 18 years old.

Tomorrow i'm going to rug doctor the carpet tommorrow for it, then start back with the under-hood stuff. First of all, will that big box the dryer was attached to, come out? or do i need it for something?

I'm going to have that side of the wires pulled out tommorrow, and all thats holding me back now is the wiring and that one exhaust bolt and the 2.8 can come out... now, i've got to buy a engine hoist to get it out...

maybe shoulda thought about that first. hahaha

 

That's the heater, ventilation, and air conditioning.

 

well i wasnt sure if the heater core was back there or not. I think we're going to leave it then.

 

If you aren't going to run AC, you can get a smaller box that only uses the heater. The heater core is on the other side of the firewall, but you need some sort of box to get the air the fan moves to the inside of the car.

 

alright, cool. I'll try and find an a/c delete box.

You dont happen to have any progress pics of moving the motor mounts do you? Thats the only real part i'm worried about.

I'm probally picking up a 4" cowl hood for it tomorrow afternoon

 

No, I didn't take pics of the process. Had my hands too full to be able to handle a camera at the same time. Were you planning on dropping the A-arms, or wiggling/extending/jointing your way inside the K-member?

 

i intend on wiggling my hand through.
I talked to a guy who said he's replaced the motor mounts on one, and he's moved them on his S10 without dropping the A Arm. He's a hefty guy with pretty big hands so i figured my skinny self could do it.

I'm hoping its not too bad. I've found the motor to go in, and the trans!

a L05 from a 92 buick roadmaster, just pulled at 90K miles with a 700r4 still bolted to it. I can get it for 450 as it sits, with the TBI, sparkplug wires, everything. Got a NICE $250 price drop from what wanted by mentioning i was a 17 year old trying to slide by on my own budget and building it myself, with a lil help every now and then from pop, so he's looking out for me. Going to get it probally next weekend. If i can get ahold of this guy tomorrow morning, i'm going to get the cowl hood tomorrow before work.

 

I'm assuming water temp or something of the sort? front of the drivers head..



or is this water temp on the intake?



engine bay ready for take off except for one more exhaust bolt.



the grease monkey opps.

Cant decide on how to get it out.. dont really have a way at the house.. but i can get an A frame, so we may do that, and put the car back on the ground for engine removal..

 

And i've already learned the motor mounts are going to be a PAIN!
But, i'm still gonna do it.. somehow.

Now, i need to know what wiring in that engine bay to leave for turn signals, fog lights & headlights. I think its the little harness that runs down the framerails.

All the other crap, what can i trash? Its going to be a no AC, No nothing. Alternator, Power Steering, carbed 350. I've got to have something to run lock-up. I guess its not manditory, and dosent HAVE to have it.. but it'd be nice.

I'm running aftermarket gauges so i'll probally go ahead and run my own wires for that too. So what do i have to leave?

Thanks,
-Scott

 

DacMan was right, this place isnt too supportive on the builds

anyway, i got my butt in gear today and couldnt get out of it. I made it out at 6:45 after work, and walked in at 9:00 working by head mounted flashlight.



Got the harness seperated, so now i've got the ECU harness laid over it can come out.

Then, i've got the headlight harness out and to the side, and the main harness is all except the AC wires unplugged and it can be laid over.

Then its onto finishing the A/C delete, then pressure washing, then the dreaded motor mount move

 

What is that supposed to mean?

 

It wasnt directed to you, it just seems that nobody else seems to say much, just reads.

 

All of the wiring for the headlights, turn signals, etc.. comes off of the firewall on the drivers side from a connector called the 'c100' its to the right of your brake booster if your looking at it dead on. All of the wiring on the passengers side is computer controlled v6 engine stuff that you wont need anymore if your not running a computer.

Heres a pic of my engine to show you what the a/c delete box looks like:

 

Oh, and are you going to run a serpentine belt, or a v-belt?

My motor (obviously) has a serpentine belt, the pulley at the top left if the A/C delete pulley, if your running the same system. Otherwise, you dont need a pulley at all.

 

Nice. Where'd you get the delete box from?

And i'm not sure what system i'm running yet.

 

Well, my car is factory A/C delete, so I already had it in it, I just wirewheeled, primed, and painted it.

 

I'm gonna look around and see if i can find one at the pull a part. if not, a buddy said he couldnt pop me a metal one off a template

 

Got my motor today. a 74 350 out a Cheyenne. Basically a core 4 bolt main. He said he thought it was a canadian version with the steel crank/rods.
Paid 100 for the whole motor minus water pump, timing cover, and q-jet(which i'm going back to get if he can find it)

decent core i guess.. something i can work with..