no oil pressure at high rpms brand new 2nd motor from blueprint engines .........wow what a mistake that was ........distributer is down tight and has pressure at start up changed the oil pressure switch 2 times .....calling there company tommarow any ideas whats going on? also hear engine noises after letting off the gas with no oil pressure using straight 30 weight oil new motor ......i dont go to hard on it because its new and needs to be broken in suggestions ideas? how to not get screwed by blueprintengines again......

 

Are you using a high volume pump on a stock oil pan?

 

i didnt build the motor but it says theres a mellings high volume pump on it and it is a stock oil pan

 

You probably are sucking the pan dry. Just for an experiment, try a test run with an extra quart of oil in there. It will cause windage, so keep the run brief, just long enough to see if it changes your results.
Because of windage, you will get many tiny air bubbles in the oil. So your pressure should still drop at high rpm, and may fluctuate, but should still read better than before.
If this is what you get, then you know the HV pump was sucking the pan dry.
The correct fix depends on what pressure you have at idle, and what weight of oil you're using. If you're getting 20 psi with 30-weight, or 20W50, then you need a different pan. If you're getting 40+ psi with 10w30, then you need a standard-volume oil pump.
Pump volume should always be determined by bearing clearances, nothing else. Mellings has proved that 0.0025" is best, and that doesn't need HV.

 

That could be the problem. I personally have not ran a high volume pump but have heard from numerous places not to run a high volume pump on a stock pan. The pump will empty the pan befor the oil can run back down and fill the pan back up. I would either change the pump, or get a high capacity pan.

 

isnt the damage already done though? i mean i should return it for another one right? and yes when warm im getting 20-30 psi at idle with 30w

 

Look at the old oil in the sunlight. If you see the sparkle of metal in the oil, then the bearings are hurt. If your idle pressure is well below what it was, then that would suggest hurt bearings. Otherwise, if it isn't locked up, and there's no internal knocking sounds, go ahead and perform the test. You'd be surprised what bearings will take, and how long a film of oil stays on them even after loss of pressure. If the bearings aren't hurt, then you're out an awful lot for the shipping.
Who chose the pan and the pump, anyway? Did they provide both, or did you ask for the HV, or what?

 

this is my 2nd blueprint motor and theyd pay for shipping i wanted a refund on my last motor it was detonated i had no proof it wasnt detonated and it had the same problem this one did....with oil pressure i think im screwed ill problay just bring the motor to sk speed or another speed shop to have done if the bearings are done

http://www.blueprintengines.com/popu...specs&pc_id=25

 

and this motor has about 2 hours of run time and 5 miles on had its 30 min break in and oil change

 

What a crappy engine! Only 440 ft-lbs from a 9.5:1 Vortec 383? It should be more like 475+. And look at that massive dip in the torque curve! That's unforgiveable AND intolerable.
Wrong cam, and wrong springs.

 

my first engine please be gentle haha

 

i had this same problem about 2 months ago with a new engine turned out the pickup was laying in the bottom of the pan

 

a small tack weld is a must on them

 

so you dropped the pan? any damage to the motor?

 

it had quite a bit of damage good thing was it was still under warranty oil pressure was at zero for about 5 seconds shut it down pulled it out all new bearings crank needed turned new cam rods reconditioned everything not trying to scare you just saying what happened to me

 

yea thats about how long it went to zero for im sending it back soon as im able to take it out just to be on the safe side

 

never do business with blueprintengines aka marshall engines ever again

 

get rid of the pump wont work,but that low of oil pressure at idle is garbage

 

Had the same problem with my 383. I took a 1/2 quart out and all was good. It was a melling pump and stock miloden pan. The more oil i put in the worst it got. My engine ended up needing a windage tray, but with the 1/2 quart removed all my problems were solved. 4.5 Quarts only

 

Don't you look foolish. Bud, new 502s, direct from GM, have about 15 psi at idle, right out of the crate, with the recommended oil. Honestly, it doesn't take more than that to be safe. 45 is okay, but you don't need more than 45, either.

 

we talking about 502 or 383 2 different animals,oh yeah he said it went to 0 not 45 right so still garbage

 

It went to 0 at high rpm, not at idle. And 15 psi is enough for any engine, whether 305 or 383 or 454 or 572. I've seen a Pontiac 400 last 15 years with 10 psi at idle. Then the car was totalled.

 

oh yeah and this is the second motor from these guys,Hmm Ive never had a sbc with that low of oil pressure,15 psi thats gonna last long in a 383 with any kind of beating right.Rule of thumb for any performance sbc oil psi times 100 equals safe max rpm under load.

 

blah blah blah...All you kids are doing is bickering back and fourth completely off subject of what this kid is asking you!
Jesus Effin Ch!st!
Look, to put it simply, the Mellings high volume pump is a good pump, however, the oil pump is obviously turned by the distributor... and I know ( because this was happening to me) that the stock shafy between the distributor and the oil pump was a 2 peice unit, held together by nothing but a plastic sleeve..all I had to do to fix it was by one at autozone, for 10 dollars, that was steel riveted.
usually at a high RPM the plastic type will jump and skip over the oil pump gear.due to this crappy plastic ghetto rivet .( other words, your distributor is turning at 3,000RPM rate, but the oil pump is only turning at half that..so your pump is not producing the volume it needs. check it out, reply a post and keep those of us who give a damn about your original question, informed...We'll go from there!:

 

Actually your oil pump is turning at the same rate as the distributor, which is the same rate as the cam, which is half of the crank rpm. Second, he was given solid, sound advice which is that his oil pan is being sucked dry. I dont think the oil pump driveshaft "usually" jumps at high rpm. If this was the case you would hear about a lot more junked motors.

 

Problem is more than likely the oil pan being sucked dry.That is the reason I went
with a stock volume stock press for my 383.I bought a high press spring for it but
haven t got around to install it.If it were me Id sent that engine back.You can bet your *** damage has alreading been done to bearings loosing all the oil press at high rpm.

 

thank you everyone for your input either way the motor needs to come out to fix it no way i can get the pan down and go through the motor for damages cause it did go with out oil for a good few seconds at high rpm a few times blueprint has offered to sent me parts only not gonna pay for the labor really messed up considering it was there screw up .........pulling it in sept on my return from africa......thanks again everyone i appreciate it

 

Did they give you the stock pan or did you put that on? If they put it on, it should be covered under the warranty they offer their complete engines. If you put it on, I can see why they would only want to send you parts.

Just curious as I was looking into one of their short block assemblies (maybe). Though those don't come with warranties.

 

it's just about Right/norm for the specs they Give.
to get a true 475 HP 383 i had to go to Lingenfelter stage 5.
thats with a mech roller cam also and 11.1 CR with alum vet heads

all you have to do is add a short/small Oil filter to your eng your not going to Keep 5 1/2 qts of 30wt oil up in the top end. with a m55Hv oil Pump with a stock Gm block.. under 5500rpm
also is your oil Guage mech or elect.

if it's a elect. check the sending unit

20/50 oil 1000 rpm 190 deg = 60 psi mech auto meter sport comp guage
GM Bowtie block Melling HV pump (NORM)
my eng holds 9QTs before the oil cooler also

JUST SO YOU know
$3400 gets you a Ricky Race Block with a better oil set up
and 427 cid sbc with 12 to1 CR H beam Rods and SRP pistons All forged parts with a trick Block to boot