Atilla the Fun

Naf made a couple of really valid points there.
most 255 LPH pumps are for running around 40 psi, so not every regulator will cut that down to 5.5, and it definitely must be a bypass-style, the cheap Holley regulators can't handle that.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

forgot to test fit that L98 spyder but ill do it tomorrow...
what pump should i use then??? 195lph sound better? gm sells the "corvette" pump that used to be included in the zz4 kit for like 77$ that one should def work right?? im gonna run the stock pump then if its no good then ill get that one cause im sure it will work attila is there anyway to clean the heads without taking them off the engine, like i said its mainly just some cobwebs but i was scared to spray air in there i used my finger a little but for the most part i just left them alone and figured the hot exhaust gas should take care of it??

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok spyder fits did mock install and got some more cleanup done to the block hopefully the cam comes in the mail and i can get it installed friday... Atilla you told me i could rebuild lifters with a paperclip, is there a kit or something??? i figured while i have them out i can just rebuild them if its cheap

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

what should the redline be on this engine? im thinking 5600rpm??
sound right? gm set the redline on the LT1 @ 5700rpm if im not mistaken so if its shifts at 5800 thatd be good right

Atilla the Fun

There's no kit. Just bend the paperclip into an L-hook on one end, using pliers, and a ring handle on the other end. You'll also need a small straight screwdriver, paper towels, safety glasses, and spray cans of brake cleaner, plus a bottle of motor oil, and a small dish.
The lifters must go back together clean and not dry, but must not be full of oil, either. No soaking them.

Atilla the Fun

as I say so often, and it applies here: hold first to 6200 when racing. Otherwise, your thinking is fine.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok gotcha

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

on the lifter deal, its kinda what i did with the ones from the L98 but i didnt completely disassemble them, i just cleaned the with brake cleaners and used my fingers to cover them in motor oil then put them in separate ziplocks

Atilla the Fun

I swear, you give the impression that you sit on your e-mail 24/7 watching for a notification that I've answered your thread or your dozens of PMs.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

no not 24/7 just frequently on my 4 days off a week no one says you have to respond right away, this is info that i need though as i want to get done as soon as possible and i dont have alot of time and money so i walk by the computer check my email and respond then go about my business the computer happens to be centrally located within my house and very convenient to access as the pages are left open all the time i merely glance at the screen and i can see messages

naf

iTrader: (7)

My 87 SC has a vortec headed LO5 crate without the fuel pump rod bore. I'm running a holley knockoff at the rear going thru the stock routing, including the stock non-functioning mech fuel pump. When I installed it I verified adequate pressure and flow at the carb AND return flow back to the tank.

In tank pump is still there but, like I said, I tested it and didn't get enough pressure or flow hence the booster pump in back.

My exhaust would make dropping the tank a pain but I'd really like to replace the in tank one day.

z28freak84

get comp 918 beehive springs and retainers and you will be good to .550" lift with no issues and better valvetrain stability.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

um thanks freak but thats not all you need

naf you have the L31 long block in an Fbody,
is it the stock truck pan??

Atilla, see took me a couple days to get back, i was working lol

naf

iTrader: (7)

Nah, mines a crate replacement for the earlier TBI truck motors (flat tappet but with roller provisions). I added the vortec heads to it when it was swapped in. It came with the TBI swirl ports.

Pan wasn't an issue, don't think it would be with the L31 but I have no personal experience.

Atilla the Fun

the L31 oil pan fits just fine in a third gen. The only late pans you can't use are the 'vette L98 versions.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok, thanks for the quick responses guys lol... is there any advantage in using the fbody pan? i thought there was a factory windage tray?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

if im deleting my egr can i just get rid of this, and cap the hard line in the second pic??

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

got some work done to the block today i pulled the pushrods dogbones and lifters then swapped in the LT1 cam and the new double roller timing chain i wanted to get the new oil pump in but i have to get my 3yo some exercise or hell be up all night heres some pics, i had a little trouble getting some of the lifters out, had to spray with some WD40 and the work them in and out a little untill the came out then they look kind of brown and rusty but they were oily???, should have took pics, does that mean theres something else wrong or will i be ok just cleaning up the lifters real good and reinstalling them?> also i saw that someone on here used LS7 lifters on his 305?!? is this an upgrade that will work np?? would a set of LS1 lifters be better then the ones i got?? i can get them pretty cheap... anway im getting there a little at a time hopefully theres no issues with the lifters

Atilla the Fun

Evap has nothing to do with EGR. There's no good reason to disable the evap system on a street car, and there are good reasons to leave it functional. It only adds about 2 pounds at most.

Atilla the Fun

I'm more interested in the rust in the intake ports, especially cylinder #3. Lifters are one thing where the LSx was a direct carryover from the SBC and LTx. New LS9 lifters work great, and currently sell for $110/set of 16. A very good price.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

lol ok i thought it was part of the egr and thats why i asked, thanks again attila, as for the intake ports what can i do about it??? there is alot of surface rust there though im guessing your gonna say take them to the machine shop

Atilla the Fun

the rusty lifters plus the rusty intake ports, and the rusty front face of the block...this engine was stored outdoors for some length of time, water got in the engine. The heads and oil pan have to come off. I know that new head gaskets aren't free, but ROL makes some steel shims that are $10 each. Pull the heads.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ive got a set of head gaskets they arent steel shims they are Mrgasket probably like .40 or something, need head bolts, what can/ should i do about it after the heads are off??

Atilla the Fun

We can't decide that until you get the heads off and see what you find. I've tried driving an engine with rusty bores, it seized the same day, beyond repair.
The current head bolts can be re-used.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

o i thought you could never reuse head bolts lol

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok i woke up early today to pull the heads and oil pan... good news: no vortec crack and the short block looks fine and i believe the po now when he told me it was rebuilt to marine specs around 50k ago then he pulled it a month or so ago for the gmpp383 truck engine, i found gaskets that said "marine performance" so that means my cam SHOULD be a ramjet cam and the springs should def be good to 450/460 lift which will work with the LT1 cam, i found a little carbon deposit around the area where the head gasket doesnt quite seal around the cylinder, and these head gaskets look great, any chance of reusing them they look better quality then mr mrgasket ones lol. there was bad news: the heads do not have the "vortec crack" they have the "flippindabird crack" the driver side head would not come off with the pry bar in the intake port so i got out the rubber mallet, didnt do anything, got the sledge hammer and tapped it a couple times, missed a little bit and hit the top of the head, broke a piece of the valve cover lip as you can see in the pic, so now my 400$ budget build has turned into a $800 budget build... so some more good news: i will be rebuilding the heads properly. im going to take them, my new valves, springs locks retainers and seals to the machine shop and hopefully they will be done by the end of august which was my target date to have the car running and to the track. more bad news: this kind of makes the LT1 cam obsolete, i will be pulling it and selling it for 50$ and purchasing a ZZ4 cam for $75. now for some questions Atilla i know you love this part! lol what do i tell the machine shop besides 30 degree back cut on the valves? keep in mind i dont wanna pay an arm and a leg, they quoted me 325 to disassemble and reassemble both heads and cut the seats or whatever is needed to bring them back to stock and bolt on, im also going to need them to fix the chunk of metal i took out with my S#!TTy disassembly, i figure it will probably cost the same for them to do the valve guides to run 510 or better lift as it would for me to buy the tool and do it(75 for the tools) is that correct? i would rather let the experts handle it and just bolt the heads on and go but if it will be substantially more ill get the toold and try it maybe i can sell the tools to someone here when im done. i want to know what i say specifically to them to have these heads work with 510 or better lift... while the heads are gone ill put the HV oil pump in, new rear main seal, reinstall the oilpan, remove the LT1 cam and wait for a ZZ4 cam so now i should def be in the 13s huh? especially since i probably wont be running the car until October, just hope the snow is late this year, so Atilla maybe you can just type me an answer i can print out and take to the machine shop?? thanks for all of everyones help im real disappointed in myself right now but i know everything happens for a reason and maybe some good will come out of the extra 500$ im about to spend

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

heres the head damage, also a friend gave me this RTV is this good to use for intake installationa dn timing cover waterpump etc??? he said it was but i wanna make sure

Atilla the Fun

First, the machine shop can't fix your damage any better than you could, and they'll charge you a lot more. Second, they may even try to tell you that the head is now junk. I disagree.
First you need to get the surrounding iron absolutely clean. Best to use a stiff-bristle wire brush and some aerosol brake cleaner. Don't forget the safety glasses.
Once it's clean and dry, apply gorilla tape to the intake face, then put a second length over the first, to make it even more stiff. If you wanna try duct tape, use at least 4 layers.
Then JB-Weld it, generously, and let harden completely.
Then dress it with a long, flat file.
You still don't need the machine shop for the guides, either. The tool will be under $75 including shipping.
And since you're pulling the valves, you may as well call Competition Products and invest your $80 in those valves I love so much.
But first, make sure your heads aren't showing any exhaust seat recession. My current Vortecs are.
Get that much done, then post again.

rustrider73

Hell yea I agree fix the heads yourself. but I would just liquid steel that chunk back on. Clean it,put a little liquid steel on the crack,and put that chunk back on,bolt the valve cover and old gasket on untill the liquid dries.

Defintely use new steel shim head gaskets,go with the zz4 cam and brand new springs,and while your at it(if they are the same as stock), I would get the new ls9 roller lifters.

Use a wire wheel on a drill and clean all that rust out of the bowls,and whatever you can get out of the ports,then remove the valves and check the seats and guides to see if you need a valve job.
If you need to do the seats or guides let the machine shop do them, and cut for the springs and seals.Then get those new valves.
If you dont need the valve job(but Im guessing you do)have the machine shop cut for the springs and seals,Then you can clean everything and put them together.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok im going to the parts store, liquid steel or jb weld?? and i should put some in the crack then place my piece of metal in the crack and then bolt the valvecover on? im guessing to hold the piece in place correct? ill use a whole roll of tape if i have to, should i also tape it up to hold it in place before the valve cover?
do i REALLY need those valves or can i use the ones i have? Atilla you said mine were fine keep in mind i just blew my budget and im gonna have to work even more OT if i can even get it

rustrider73

jb weld is ok, just put some on the crack and put the piece in there and bolt the valvecover and gasket on . no tape so you can see if everthing is lined up. the jb weld will probably dry pretty fast but I'd leave it to dry atleast24 hours.

Atilla the Fun

If the missing chunk didn't shatter, then reinstalling it means it'll be harder to file flush than just JB. And filing it could knock it back out.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

i just picked up the jb weld, im not sure of what your last statement was trying to say, is there a different plan of attack now attilla? or am i still just trying to "glue the thing together" using jb weld?

Atilla the Fun

You should do whatever you're most comfortable with, but if it was mine, I'd forget the piece that went flying, and use only JB.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

so i was thinking about it and if you think its a better idea to just use jb weld thats what ill do, i was thinking i can tape both sides to kind of create a mold and put the jb weld in then ill just have to sand/file the top down s its square flat even, sound like a good plan?? i just picked up the performer rpm intake last night it has some mild porting and the casting lash was cleaned up etc but its not polished so thats good...
just gotta get this dam head fixed

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

im gonna try to sell these for 275 plus shipping so i dont have to do the work and get another set thats already done, i found a set very reasonable with this description on ebay A COMPLETE SET OF 2 CYLINDER HEADS FOR A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE. THE HEADS ARE VORTEC CYLINDER HEADS AND HAVE A CASTING NUMBER OF 12558062. THE HEADS HAVE ALLL NEW 1.940 INTAKE VALVES AND 1.5 EXHAUST VALVES, ALSO NEW SPRINGS WITH A MAXIMUM LIFT OF .600, NEW RETAINERS AND ALSO NEW VALVE LOCKS, ALSO HAVE A PREMIUM POSITIVE VALVE SEAL ON EVERY VALVE. GUIDE BOSSES HAVE BEEN CUT DOWN TO ACCEPT THE UP TO .600 LIFT CAMSHAFT IF DESIRED. SPRING PRESSURE IS 130 LBS ON THE SEAT AND AT .550 LIFT IS 340 LBS. MORE THAN ENOUGH TO RUN A HYDRAULIC FLAT OR HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAMSHAFT

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

i figure that covers the machine work i would have paid for

Atilla the Fun

The ad reads great, but IDK if you'll get that much for yours. Good luck!

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

yeah i doubt it too lol whatever i get i get itll offset the cost of the new ones

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

since im getting the heads with upgraded springs good for 550, would it be a good idea to get a set of 1.6 RR(if i can find them cheap enough) to raise the lift of the cam to .504"/.540" or will the lift hurt performance? i dont know what these heads like but i read in SDPC catalog that they flow 240cfm @ 500 lift stock so i was thinking if i had more lift the engine would be around the max flow range of the heads more often, is this correct or am i all wrong with my "ASSumption" ? oh and keep in mind i have a performer rpm intake and 1 5/8" headers (hooker 2055r's) and using the stock cc qjet(with ah rods and a G hanger thanks atilla) and hei

Atilla the Fun

SDPC's yanking your chain. It's 238 at 0.475". And no, don't 1.6 a ZZ4 cam.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok no 1.6s save me some dough anyway... so has anyone used a rpm intake and the stock firebird hood? im thinking it wont clear because its at least 3 inches higher with the spacer required to run a spreadbore carb but if ANYONE knows for sure please let me know also should i use a 14x3 inch or a 14x4 inch aircleaner with a 3" cowl induction hood ? the 14x4 is about 15$ cheaper so if its not gonna make much difference(both come with recessed base plates) the air cleaner i wanna use is a K&N extreme knockoff, i got a price list of (hopefully) all the parts ill need and im about 500$ off right now so i need a few more weeks

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

will the stock 1.5 rockers be ok with the 510 lift?? i got the new heads in and they look great ill post some pics later

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

Atilla i was just reading through your "best builds" again and realized that i may have close to the first 350 combo on there where it made just over 400hp with vortec heads a hot cam, edelbrock 7516, and bigger headers then mine... i pretty much have the same thing if i go with the hot cam, would the ah and g setup be a good start for that? any concerns running the hotcam with the stock rockers until i can find a set of 1.6s cheap?

Atilla the Fun

Go ahead, and don't even worry about the rockers. It'll do better with 1.50:1 intake rockers anyway.

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

ok purchasing hotcam now... i guess i gotta change the name of this thread lol

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

got the new LT4 Hot Cam in the mail yesterday($145 shipped), waiting on some stuff from competition products(head bolts intake bolts pushrods retainers etc) and new LS lifters and zz4 timing cover from jim pace then itll be ready to go together, gotta get this thing done and to the track before it snows

oh yeah, Atilla should i use 1.5s on the intake and 1.6s exhaust or just 1.5s all around?? im looking to get a set of used roller rockers cheap if i can... trying to make sure i get to 400 hp

Atilla the Fun

but you're making progress, so don't get too stressed

rustrider73

how did the head repair come out, got any pics.
did you do any machine work or are you still planning on just buffing up what you have

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

didnt even try to fixim got the JB weld thought i just bought new heads